Replacing RCAs
AndyGwis
Posts: 3,655
Hello All,
Haven't gotten into any DIY / Mod projects to this point, but I just bought a B&K Pro-10MC pre that needs a little work. It's in pristine shape except for some pretty shoddy RCA jacks.
How would one go about replacing original RCA jacks on an older pre? I would guess it's pretty easy, but I have no idea where to look for parts, installation directions, etc.
Please let me know if you have undertaking such a venture. Any help is greatly appreciated! Also, if there are any other cheap/easy fixes I can do while in there, let me know.
Happy Fourth!
Andy
Haven't gotten into any DIY / Mod projects to this point, but I just bought a B&K Pro-10MC pre that needs a little work. It's in pristine shape except for some pretty shoddy RCA jacks.
How would one go about replacing original RCA jacks on an older pre? I would guess it's pretty easy, but I have no idea where to look for parts, installation directions, etc.
Please let me know if you have undertaking such a venture. Any help is greatly appreciated! Also, if there are any other cheap/easy fixes I can do while in there, let me know.
Happy Fourth!
Andy
Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
Post edited by AndyGwis on
Comments
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Here's a pic of the rear. All those jacks are a little deteriorated so I would be replacing a bunch of them.
I can borrow a camera and take pics of the inside sometime, but looks like just a rip, replace, and solder job.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Why exactly are they "shoddy"?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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They look rusty / corroded on the outside contacts. The inside plastic also seems to be worn away, and ICs are very difficult to get in and out. I will clean with some high-grade sandpaper and/or emory cloth, but would like to replace them altogether with something a bit more up-to-date.
Let me know if this is a feasible endeavor. I'm sure places like Altex or partsexpress carry the parts, but I don't know how to uninstall old and install new.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
I would pick up some cleaner from www.caig.com either in pad form or spray. Don't use something abrasive to clean the contacts, you'll only make it worse.
Yes, PE does carry RCA jacks but realize this isn't just a 15 minute job. You need to figure out whether they are PCB or chassis mounted RCA's first.
Clean them up real good with CAIG and then decide on further action.
What IC's are you using?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Currently, I have some AQ Sidewinder ICs. Nothing fancy, they were onsale at BB recently and better than what I was using before.
I'll get some cleaner. These things look pretty bad, and I don't mind putting some hours into it. . . it would be good experience and help the performance, looks, and/or resale value : )Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Do the guts look as bad as the jacks?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The guts look good. Circuit board is clean and everything is pretty spotless in there. I blew out the dust with some compressed air, but, unlike the amp when I got it, this one hardly had any dust to blow out.
The jacks and the front power light are the only two problems I see. I bought a new rocker switch try to to solve the power light problem, but didn't fix it. Must be a short or something internally, but it works so no biggie. I'll just get a switch that isn't supposed to light up, then it won't be broke : )Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Quick update. . . Did some work on the Pro-10 this weekend. Still need to get some Caig cleaner to see if it helps the contacts.
The front light doesn't work but it doesn't affect the performance (which is actually really good!). I resoldered where I thought there maybe a problem with the light (and also installed a new switch), but nothing worked.
Also, regarding the guts, upon further review, on the bottom side of the board, it seems one of the yellow pieces (not sure what they're called; there are four or five of them) has one end that has come loose. It's just hanging there half-attached. May try to remove circuitboard, resolder, and see if that helps. Will post pic if possible.
Basically, I love this thing besides the RCA jacks and (slightly less annoying) the front light that doesn't work. I bought it on the cheap and don't mind trying to fix it up. But, if it's too much trouble, I guess I could return, resell, or just put in storage and get something a bit newer.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
If at all possible I would just clean up the existing jacks. To replace it would be best to order the originals from the manufacturer. To install off the shelf ones would be quite a bit harder. On a scale of one (easiest) to ten, replacing with originals would be a 1 or 2 but off the shelf ones would be about 11.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
I think I will stick with cleaning them. Still trying to figure out how to resolder the loose connection on the underside of the circuitboard. can't figure how to unhook everything from board to work on it.
Just ordered some CAIG Deoxit cleaner. Hopefully it will clean them up. If not, I will contact B&K to see about replacing originals through manufacturer.
Thanks.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850