93 mazda 626

josh_parsons626

Hello I'm gonna go with polk DB series in my 93 mazda 626 (for now) and both fronts and rears are 5x7's but Crutchfield says 5 1/4 component's will fit. I'm wondering, sound quality wise, if I should go with the 5 1/4 comp. or get a 5x7 coaxial and get a seperate tweeter to put in the factory tweeter location?

spwuinmk67

For quality, go with the 5.25 comps. won't be much bass out of them, but thats why we have subs right?

MacLeod

Go with the comps. Much less hassle and the bass response difference between a 5x7 and 5.25 wont be that much.

josh_parsons626

Well honestly, I'm not getting either for bass. For bass I'm getting http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/db212/. The original thought was ya know which one would provide more clarity?

1996blackmax

5.25 > 5x7

exalted512

6.5>5.25>5x7

josh_parsons626

6.5? Can I fit 6.5 components in a factory size 5x7 hole? Cause if I can then I will!

spwuinmk67

with a little effort on your part, they can fit. the 5.25's or 5x7's will just be more of a drop in then the 6.5's.

exalted512

with just a spacer, 6.5s will fit. If you go with 5.25s, youll have to build some kind of spacer anyway so there wont be gaps on either side anyway, so might as well go with 6.5s
-Cody

josh_parsons626

What's the advantage of the 6.5 component's vs. the 5.25 component's? I know the component's are just a woofer with a tweeter. But what is the difference between the woofer size? Othar than it being 1.25" bigger than the other?

exalted512

usually more power handling, more important is the bass response
-Cody

MacLeod

josh_parsons626 wrote:

Well honestly, I'm not getting either for bass. For bass I'm getting http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/db212/. The original thought was ya know which one would provide more clarity?

Not necessarily for bass but for midbass. The 80-200 Hz stuff that is so important. A 6.5 will usually do better in this area.

josh_parsons626

Hey guys I was looking at the Polk DB speakers and was wondering if y'all think I could fit 6.75 instead of 6.5. The 6.5 are 40Hz-22KHz while the 6.75 are 35Hz-23KHz. Both are 300 watts peak and 100 watts continous. I think that the 6.75 would probably be more "louder" and "crystal clear" right? But the thing is could a 6.75 component fit in a 5x7 hole? Or would getting the 6.5 component be better? I got friends over at Elite Sound & Image who will be doing all of my installations, including the custom sub enclosures, when it comes time.

exalted512

josh_parsons626 wrote:

The 6.5 are 40Hz-22KHz while the 6.75 are 35Hz-23KHz.

that makes me wonder about the accuracy of polk's specs. Why would the 6.75 have a higher frequency response even though they have the same tweeters?

The 6.75s will require a space made out of 3/4" mdf. If you can fit the spacer and the speaker behind the panel, go for it
-Cody

josh_parsons626

I've been looking at all these custom installs on Polk's install gallery of Polk vehicles and I've been noticing that they have 2 speakers in the doors and that they'll even have a speaker in the center of the dash. What's the advantage of this?

I guess I'm old fashioned but I've always listened to systems where the front speakers have been replaced with awesome but same size speaker and a tweeter at ear level, as well as the rear speakers replaced with awesome but same size. One amp for fronts, one amp for rears, and one amp for subs.

So what is the advantage of having all these speakers now vs. the "old school" way back in the days?

spwuinmk67

That kinda stuff is mostly for show. You might get a little more volume out of 2 mids in the door, but you'll lose some clarity. the speaker in the dash is for show and for surround sound. Most of the cars that have that will also have a dvd player/ps2/whatever and have the surround capability.

josh_parsons626

So I can have an awesome system then if I have the DB 6.5 components in the door with the tweeter in the factory location at the front most part of the windshield beside the bottom of the A-pillar, and the db 6.5 components in the rears with the tweeters beside the component?

spwuinmk67

If its going in a 626, its not a big car, so you could probably better spend some dough and not get rear speakers. If you carry around people in the back seat alot, then maybe throw a set of 5x7 or whatever back there, but you don't need to invest a lot in your rears unless your going for surround sound with dvd.

josh_parsons626

OK so I think I'm staying with ya there, but what about amps? I'm wanting to stay Polk everything so what about their amps for the 2 DB components? C300.2 is 150 watts and c400.4 bridged is 200 watts. And then I was thinking 2 C500.1. One for each sub, which would be 350 to each sub. So would that be pretty good in the end then?

As soon as I get my tranny switched from automatic to standard I'm gonna put a deck in. I like Alpine for their decks and I think I'm gonna go with an Alpine CDA-9853. Right now before I parked the car I had 2005 Alpine Type-R 5x7 in the doors and rears, including some bad **** Rockford Fosgate tweeters. I'm telling you what for no amp I had crystal clear treble with just no bass at all.

I'm wanting to go out on not just this 1993 Mazda 626, but my entire sound system too. I bet y'alls wondering "if you're wanting to go all out on a Polk system then why not get Signature Reference, right? Well my and my fiance also have a 2004 Ford Freestar family van that I'm wanting to put something in. But the catch is I cant have any bump in it. So what I'm gonna do is test these DB components in my Mazda for 7 or 8 months or so then if I like them I'll put them in my van. I'll also put the same CD deck in my van too. Also the entire Mazda will be completely covered in Dynamat Extreme. I'm a very firm believer in it.

I'm trying to fix it up for street / daily driver as well as having a bumping system in it too, but I'm having trouble finding crucial things like polished intake manifold (not headers), performance camshaft, crankshaft, gears, pulleys and stuff like that. If it was a damn Honda Civic the motor would be built already LOL. I bought that car for $100 with no motor and then slapped one in there just so I could drive it around. Within the first few weeks of driving it around I got comfortable with the way it rode and handled and that's when I knew I wanted to go all out with it. So it's been broke down for about 6 months now on account of I've been busy with work and my buddy who's helping me's been busy of work, and we haven't had a good place to work. I'm a member of MX6.com forums but nobody's been helping me out with hard to find engine parts.

Well I know that's a lot to take in right now but tell me what y'all think about the system, and anything I can do to better it, other than change it all together. You dont have to reply about the engine building and all that I was just telling y'all about what I'm trying to do.