Speaker / Amp System Rig Up

xselr8
xselr8 Posts: 1
edited June 2006 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hello everyone, I need some assistance. I have a 2000GMC Serria ext cab truck. I would like to install a pair of MMC6500 in the front door, a pair of MMC460 in the rear, and at least 1 10" Sub. I would like to run all these speakers off of one amp (C.400.4).

Is it safe to place the amp(s) behind the bench rear seat? Does it get enough air to saty cool back there?

Is it safe to hook up all the speakers on the front two channels and the sub on the rear? Is this enough power for the speakers?

Any ideas or suggestion would be appriciated. Thanks
Post edited by xselr8 on

Comments

  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited June 2006
    I would run all four speakers to their own independent channel, and get another amp for the sub. Having the rear channels at the same level as the front will kill any sound quality you may want to have.

    As far as heat, as long as you have a few inches of clearance you should be ok.
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited June 2006
    Cody can tell you about the spacing issues.

    However, like blackmax said, you shouldn't run all those drivers off one amp; at least not the C400.4. The MMC6500 components should at least have a separate channel for each side, if not a separate channel for each driver.

    For simplicity's sake, here's what I would do, and I imagine it would work well. I would buy a C300.2 to power the MMC6500, and then use the front channels on a C400.4 to power the rear speakers, and then bridge the rear channels to power a MM2104. That would be the perfect system, imo.
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
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  • Custom Jim
    Custom Jim Posts: 30
    edited June 2006
    In a system like yours here’s what I would try with what you have and providing your radio has the right outputs:
    Hook the rear 4x6’s to the rear speaker outputs on the radio and wire in a 200-400Hz passive crossover inline on those speakers. If the radio has a rear high pass filter built in for those speaker outputs, engage that instead of the using the passive crossovers.
    Run the front pre-amp outputs of the radio to the front input of the amp and wire the 6.5” set to the amps front outputs. Engage the amplifier’s high pass filter or use the one in the radio if there is one.
    Run the sub pre-amp output of the radio to the rear input of the amplifier and wire the sub to the amps rear outputs. Engage the amps low pass filter or use the one on the radio if there is one.
    In this wiring you can fade full front or full rear and be able to control more things. If the four factory location speakers are wired to the front output of the amplifier then the volume will be limited by the output of the smaller speakers. There will also be no way to control the volume between the front and rear speakers but by wiring the rear speakers to the radio’s internal rear output speaker wires you gain system control. Wiring the amp to all of the factory location speakers the amplifier will put out more power but at a loss of system control.
    If later wire the 4 channel amp to the 4 speakers and buy a mono amp for the sub. If you think you may be doing this, run a set of speaker wires and RCA’s from the radio to amp location when you are doing the other wiring even though you are not going to use them but later when you go to upgrade you should have less work to do but at the cost of more dollars spent originally.
    As far as mounting, don't smother the amp and if it will be on the back wall of the cab, glue a 1/2" thick plywood panel to the metal, put the factory carpet back over it and then mount the amp to the board using 1/2" long screws. This way you won't have screws poking out of the back cab wall which can cause rust and water issues. Also make the board large enough for any later additions you may be doing. I clean the metal and use liquid nail to attach the boards and later the board can be removed and any glue residue sanded off and a person then could repaint the back wall and have it look like original again.

    Jim
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited June 2006
    I actually only read about the first 6 lines of that, but that sounds like a really good idea, too.
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
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  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited June 2006
    thats exactly what i would do.

    Use the front channels for the components, rear channel for the sub, and run the 4x6s off the radio. If you want to have the rear speakers amped, you could try getting a 5-channel like the Memphis Belle.

    As far as clearance, the lower you mount it, the better. If you would take out the back seat, that would be best. Its held on by 5 bolts.
    -Cody
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited June 2006
    Well, phoo. Nobody every opts to go with my recommendations. :(:p
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited June 2006
    An even simpler way to go would be to not use rear speakers at all. In a cab as small as a extended cab pickup you wont miss them. This way you could go with a strong 4 channel amp to run your entire system.
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  • Custom Jim
    Custom Jim Posts: 30
    edited June 2006
    Yep, the more I think about it, the more I think you should go they way audiobliss said to wire it.


















    There, feel better audiobliss :D:D

    Jim
    1973 Nova Custom,1974 Nova Spirit of America, 1977 Nova Hatchback,1973 Nova Pro-Street

    http://hometown.aol.com/krystaldesigns/page1.html
    1974 Chevrolet Nova Spirit Of America Restoration
  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited June 2006
    Haha. Yes, indeed, I do. Thanks!

    :D:D
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited June 2006
    Actually, I think I like Mac's last idea. I don't know why I didnt' think about it. But he's right, with such a small cabin, I really don't think it'd be worth the money for rear speakers.
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • LittleCar_w/12s
    LittleCar_w/12s Posts: 568
    edited June 2006
    I second the opinion to go with the C400.4 using front outputs to amp the fronts, and bridge the rear outputs for the sub. Just leave the rears connected to the HU/Deck... why make more work.

    Alternately, use the 400.4 to power the front mids and tweets separately, then get a mono amp for the sub.
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  • hrdhtdvr
    hrdhtdvr Posts: 103
    edited June 2006
    I have a 02 silverado Extended cab and I use a JL 500/5 amp to power my whole set up. The amp is mounted under the back seat (Which folds up) along with the sub, which actually sits in front of the amp. I am very happy with the way everything sounds. It looks like you and I may have the same set up except for the HU. I am not familiar with the Sierra. Isn't it the same as the Silverado or is it GMC's version of the S-10?
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