"Squeak" and General Cut Offs
VR3
Posts: 28,640
On my truck, the left front tire "squeaks" in intervals...
If I slightly press the brake in, the squeak goes away - but it only happens on the left front tire... and it happens at any speed, just faster paced at faster speeds...
But could my brake be rubbing?
I also have "brake chatter" as my grandpaw called it, like when I brake - my front end will jump...
Would this be the underlying cause?
During the morning after my truck has set for about 7-8 hours, when I start it up, it will be at about 1,500 RPM - then will settle down to the normall 7-600 rpm.
Anyways, at first the truck will jump to 2,000 rpm, then down to 1,500 rpm - then it will "fall" to like 3-400 rpm, then jump back up to the 1.5 range, and sometimes the truck will actually cut off...
What could cause this?
Thanks for your help as always.
If I slightly press the brake in, the squeak goes away - but it only happens on the left front tire... and it happens at any speed, just faster paced at faster speeds...
But could my brake be rubbing?
I also have "brake chatter" as my grandpaw called it, like when I brake - my front end will jump...
Would this be the underlying cause?
During the morning after my truck has set for about 7-8 hours, when I start it up, it will be at about 1,500 RPM - then will settle down to the normall 7-600 rpm.
Anyways, at first the truck will jump to 2,000 rpm, then down to 1,500 rpm - then it will "fall" to like 3-400 rpm, then jump back up to the 1.5 range, and sometimes the truck will actually cut off...
What could cause this?
Thanks for your help as always.
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
Comments
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You need to replace your brake pad(s), and if this has been going on a while you'll most likely need to replace your rotors or have them turned.
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What you have going on with the brakes is what they call brake pulsating.
The cause of this is warped rotors you need to have the rotors turned depending how warped they are or just buy new ones and also replace the brake pads also.
That should fix the brake problem. Now for the idling problem it sounds like to me the idle senoid sensor is at fault. But you need to put it on the computer monitor and check the codes to be sure. -
The squeak(brake sensor) will get worse, time for new pads and get the rotors turned.
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You also want to check about the [brake] caliper slides (depending on how they are built). A warped rotor can ruin them and if so, the caliper will eat up pads in the future and possibly chatter even with a new rotor. Also, just don't take the mechanics word for it... some calipers are very loose by design.
Additionally, chatter and warped rotors can be caused by a spindle or hub bearing going bad or unadjusted.
The startup problem may be the choke releasing too early(carb engine), or the ECM reading the temperature rise too early from the temp sensor (Throttle body or EFI engines)___________________________
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LittleCar_w/12s wrote:You also want to check about the [brake] caliper slides (depending on how they are built). A warped rotor can ruin them and if so, the caliper will eat up pads in the future and possibly chatter even with a new rotor. Also, just don't take the mechanics word for it... some calipers are very loose by design.
Additionally, chatter and warped rotors can be caused by a spindle or hub bearing going bad or unadjusted.
The startup problem may be the choke releasing too early(carb engine), or the ECM reading the temperature rise too early from the temp sensor (Throttle body or EFI engines)Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
Yeah, that was his one post for the year. We wont hear from him again til '07.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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MacLeod wrote:Yeah, that was his one post for the year. We wont hear from him again til '07.
Roflmao...
So sadly true....___________________________
Total cost of materials: Going up...
Time spent: Countless Hours...
Cranking the system, having it quiet outside the car, and sound that takes the rear-view off inside: PRICELESS
For some things in life, you pay others to do it... For a masterpeice, do it yourself. -
Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »Anyways, at first the truck will jump to 2,000 rpm, then down to 1,500 rpm - then it will "fall" to like 3-400 rpm, then jump back up to the 1.5 range, and sometimes the truck will actually cut off...
What could cause this?
Thanks for your help as always.
Experiencing the same problem here with a 2000 Nissan Maxima, but it only happens once in a blue moon. The car will idle roughly and the RPMs will go down and then jump back up a little, and then go back down. It happens most on cold winter days. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
I've already asked audiobliss but he is not sure.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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is it a manual?2013 Toyota Prius
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eloplayspolo wrote: »is it a manual?
As in stick shift? No, it's an automatic.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Any suggestions guys?
IIRC, I was told by audiobliss that it could be something like bad spark plugs, or something totally different. But it happens so rarely that I almost feel like blaming it on bad gasoline or just Murphy's Law or something like that...polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Sids is just a standard cold weather start up setting.
I would be looking more towards the Idle Air Controller (IAC) or Idle Air Solenoid (IAS) issue. -
Sids is just a standard cold weather start up setting.
I would be looking more towards the Idle Air Controller (IAC) or Idle Air Solenoid (IAS) issue.
Is this easy to fix? I don't want it to become a problem since right now the car runs fine except for this minor issue.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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It's the brakes. My truck does the same thing when it's time for them to be replaced.
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SolidSqual wrote: »It's the brakes. My truck does the same thing when it's time for them to be replaced.
Oh sorry...I meant the rough idling problem. The car has new brake pads, rotors, and an alignment was done in the past month or so.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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