Auto or Manual?
Comments
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Had a manual, but hated it. Went back to automatic. I don't want to be involved so much in the driving experience that I gotta switch gears all the time. Besides, I've got something more important to do with my right hand while I'm driving.
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My 03 Mach 1 Mustang and 97 Ranger are both 5 speeds. I drive the Ranger everyday in stop and go traffic and really never mind it. The clutch is light enough so it doesn't require a lot of pressure unlike the Mustang. Control and having fun shifting are the main reasons I enjoy the manual, and I have no plans on an automatic in the near future!
PS, driving my wifes 4 cylinder Accord automatic has nearly gotten me killed more than once because it was in the wrong gear (ie to high a gear) and barely kicked down in time to move out of traffic. I've never had that problem with my similiarly powered 4 banger Ranger. Did I mention there is nothing quite as fun as revving up the Mustang and dropping the clutch at 3000 RPM?? -
Mine is a 5 speed & I thankfully have never had to have the clutch replaced. I know not to ride the clutch but like someone else mentioned, it is a pain to deal with in traffic which we have plenty of in Atlanta. it's a Nissan 300ZX and there was no way I would have bought an automatic. It's been a great car I but am ready for something different but will stay with this for now because of gas prices.
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One 5 speed and one automatic. Depends on the vehicle.Michael
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It all depends on the vehicle. Luxury sedan, SUV, family car, or truck, id get an automatic. Anything else would be a manual
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Always a manual guy - I have succumbed to chronic foot problems, surgery, and you guessed it, an automatic. It's the only way to fly in traffic. Well, for us 98lb weakling lazy asses anyway...VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
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Manual shift is soooooo passe.Political Correctness'.........defined
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wow lots o responses.
I've heard that in drag racing a automatics can shift faster than some manuals. Automatics can also control power better? not sure about that one....but I guess if your street racing with traffic lights, the auto has a slight advantage off the line because he doesn't have to rev his engine for the clutch.
I really want a manual despite houston traffic, but i got a hand me down which I'm happy with
I wouldn't mind paddle shifters either! I have tiptronic. Manuamatic is slightly different.
chris
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I've heard that in drag racing a manual can shift faster than some manuals.
You meant to say automatics can shift faster, right? That's true and not just can, they always shift faster.Political Correctness'.........defined
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President of Club Polk -
Automatics own in bracket racing, keyword = consistency.
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Schris22 wrote:wow lots o responses.
I've heard that in drag racing a manual can shift faster than some manuals. Automatics can also control power better? not sure about that one....but I guess if your street racing with traffic lights, the auto has a slight advantage off the line because he doesn't have to rev his engine for the clutch.
In some cases, an auto will shift faster than a stick. Depends on the manual trans your using and whether your doing the shifting manually or with air cylinders. What trans you use depends on the class and type of racing you do.
The torque converter in an automatic multiplys torque up until converter lockup. Depending on the angle of the vanes, that can be from 1800 RPM to 6000 RPM. But a racing converter will always have some amount of slippage, as high as 10% or more.
With a multiple disc racing clutch, you slip it to keep the engine RPM in the cams power range and through the use of weights on the fingers, lock it up at the appropriate RPM. You can do the same thing with a single disc clutch in a street car but it's causes premature wear.
Autos can contribute to consistency but I have bracket raced with crash boxes (no need to use the clutch when shifting) and done just as well. In classes using a pro tree where reaction time is important, it's hard to beat a two speed powerglide with a trans brake (locks the trans in reverse and first gear). Matt the throttle and release the button when it's time.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SCompRacer wrote:In some cases, an auto will shift faster than a stick. Depends on the manual trans your using and whether your doing the shifting manually or with air cylinders. What trans you use depends on the class and type of racing you do.
The torque converter in an automatic multiplys torque up until converter lockup. Depending on the angle of the vanes, that can be from 1800 RPM to 6000 RPM. But a racing converter will always have some amount of slippage, as high as 10% or more.
With a multiple disc racing clutch, you slip it to keep the engine RPM in the cams power range and through the use of weights on the fingers, lock it up at the appropriate RPM. You can do the same thing with a single disc clutch in a street car but it's causes premature wear.
Autos can contribute to consistency but I have bracket raced with crash boxes (no need to use the clutch when shifting) and done just as well. In classes using a pro tree where reaction time is important, it's hard to beat a two speed powerglide with a trans brake (locks the trans in reverse and first gear). Matt the throttle and release the button when it's time.
Am I not a man if I don't understand half of what you said?
And what is bracket racing...yes I am a noobie to some stuff.
I'm a WRC fan, not as much drag/nascar/f1..etc
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sticks for the street to play and show off.. Race,, auto's for drag racing.. an auto wont miss a gear like a person can.. Manuals on the strip are just plain more work.. doing the burnout to warm the tires, to launching it.. and if it starts to get away it's easier to let off the gas.. then down shift or let off the gas/clutch and steerMY HT RIG:
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Schris22 wrote:Am I not a man if I don't understand half of what you said?
And what is bracket racing...yes I am a noobie to some stuff.
I'm a WRC fan, not as much drag/nascar/f1..etc
Chris
Bracket racing, or ET racing, allows two completely different cars to compete on even terms. In class racing, he who has the most money will go the fastest and always win. In ET or brackets, you each post the time your car is going to run the 1/4 mile in on the window. The times are entered into the starting line computer, and the slower car is given a head start. In other words, the slower car gets the green launch light before the other driver. The goal is to come as close to your posted time without going any faster, or you break out and are disqualified. At the end of the quarter mile, he who comes closest to their posted time with the best reaction time wins.
To be successful, you need to know how fast your car will go in all weather conditions. Serious ET racers will have a laptop with weather station software to calculate the corrected altitude (based on temperature and humdiity). Engines don't produce as much power in hot humid weather as they do in cool conditions. After that, all you need to do is cut a good light.
EDIT:
Each driver has the chance to get a good reaction time, or head start over the other driver. Bracket racing usually gets a full countdown on the " christmas tree." A full tree counts down at half-second intervals. The cycle goes: Amber on, delay, amber off, delay and amber on. Here's the important part. The reaction timer starts when the third amber comes on. Since there is a half-second (or .500 seconds) delay until the green light comes on, a .500 reaction time is perfect. The reaction timer stops when the car leaves the starting line. Leave too soon (like .495), and you red light and are disqualified. The lowest reaction times often determine who will win. With a Pro tree, all the ambers come on and there is only a .400 delay till the green.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Schris22 wrote:wow lots o responses.
I've heard that in drag racing a automatics can shift faster than some manuals. Automatics can also control power better? not sure about that one....but I guess if your street racing with traffic lights, the auto has a slight advantage off the line because he doesn't have to rev his engine for the clutch.
I really want a manual despite houston traffic, but i got a hand me down which I'm happy with
I wouldn't mind paddle shifters either! I have tiptronic. Manuamatic is slightly different.
chris
edit:correction, thanks f1nut
In a near stock vehicle, ie my Mach 1 Mustang 5 speed, I will beat a similiarly equiped auto Mach. Why, because I can slip the clutch and bring the engine into it's powerband (3500-3800 RPM on the stock tires on a sticky dragstrip) while a stock car can only stall to around 2000 -2200 RPM. Typically, until you get into a high powered (10 second car or quicker), a manual tranny will run faster at the track. There is no slippage, only 100% power delivery via the direct connection from flywheel to clutch/tranny.
Bracket racing is a different game, and the auto never misses that pesky 3rd gear shift. -
Ohhhh so that is what that is. I've seen a few races online and never knew what that was called.
Thanks guys.
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Even though I like manual more (especially if you are going for a 4 cyl.)
1) Charger is only available in an automatic. (then again - power is not an issue for this car)
2) Wife has to be able to drive it and she REFUSES to learn how to drive a manual trans.
3) resale for manual is not nearly as good as the resale for an automatic. (not only in cost, but in time to sell)
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faster100 wrote:sticks for the street to play and show off.. Race,, auto's for drag racing.. an auto wont miss a gear like a person can.. Manuals on the strip are just plain more work.. doing the burnout to warm the tires, to launching it.. and if it starts to get away it's easier to let off the gas.. then down shift or let off the gas/clutch and steer
High horsepower cars will use a manual-automatic type trans, like the Lenco. Like an automatic, they use planetary gear sets and friction clutches. Straight cut gears are used instead of helical (angle) cut in their planetary gear sets for strength. Instead of hydraulic pressure applying the clutches, a wedge is driven between roller bearings. You can either use a clutch or torque converter with these transmissions.
At one time Lenco equipped cars dominated the field. Craig Liberty changed that with his dual counter shaft five-speed manual Pro-Stock trans. It is lighter and less expensive than the Lenco. It weighs around 95 pounds and can handle 3,000 horsepower. Like the lenco, you can easily change gear ratios for varying track and weather conditions.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
MattN03 wrote:
Bracket racing is a different game, and the auto never misses that pesky 3rd gear shift.
Thats why I like 'glides. Only two forward gears to worry about.:D A car weighing over 3200 pounds will do better with a three speed auto though. Even better when equipped with a low first gear gear set.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I just rolled the tubes in my tranny! Sounds great! Lot's of high end power:DCarl
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I believe I stand somewhat corrected by Rich, thanks. I trust what he knows about drag racing.Political Correctness'.........defined
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Manual only here...
I just like the added driver involvement vs. auto's.More later,
Tour...
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I definitely prefer manual overall until I hit traffic...thats when laziness sets in and I want a automatic. Currently both of my cars are automatic but if I ever own something sportier than a Jeep Grand Cherokee and a Ford Ranger I will definitely choose the manual.2 Channel Rig
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