c400.4 + SR6500 question

howie777
howie777 Posts: 357
edited April 2006 in Car Audio & Electronics
Ok, so I installed my C400.4 and SR 6500's today. Did ok.

But they sound like total crap. How should one set the C400.4 crossovers? Just turn them off? Along with baypassing the Pre-eq and let the SR crossovers do their job? I think my issue is a low pass on the woofers cutting a lot out. I was way too tired to do much after I verified all 4 speakers where working, After that I just buttoned it up and got some food.

I have front preout on my HU to the amp for the tweeters, back preout to amp for the woofers.

OK I'm dead tired, and my pissed as my airbag light now blinks after the install and my Alpine when turned off doesn't display the time. LOL The woofers took both spacers, plus 2 layers of diamplifer pro + the vibration pad before they fit depth wise, glade I didn't go with the MMC6500s, I doubt they would have fit at all.

Overall I took it really slow, 10 hours for 1 amp + a set of 6500's. This was a LOT more time that I expected it to take.

Anyway, anyone I'll post pics tomorrow of my install so you call all laugh at my A-pillers! :D

H
Post edited by howie777 on

Comments

  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited April 2006
    Congrats on getting them in :). Don't worry about how long it took. Once you do it a few times, it's alot easier.

    As for the x-overs, I am assuming that you are still using the passive units that came with set. Try starting off at 80Hz for the midrange drivers, and see how that works out. The tweeters do not need any filtering from the amplifier, as the passive unit is doing this already.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited April 2006
    They definitely should not sound like crap! Mine made me weep the very first time I played em they sounded so good!

    My little suggestions:

    First, turn off all the 400.4's crossovers. The Polk engineers went to a lot of time and trouble to design the SR's passive crossover to get the best out of the SR's. Bi-amping is great but run em thru the passive x-overs.

    Second, make sure the mid's high pass filter is at 50 Hz or off. The SR's can go down pretty low so 50 Hz will be fine for now and you can adjust it later. Im thinking youve got it set to 80+ Hz which would take most of the low end response and punch out of the bass.

    Third, make sure the tweeter is attenuated. Right now my tweeter gain is set a good bit below the mid's gain. This will take some time to get dialed in right but I feel pretty confident that youre not going to want the tweeters playing at the same level as the mids.

    Fourth, give em some break in time. While I loved mine right out of the box, they got noticeably better within the first 2 weeks of playing and within a month were at their best.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • howie777
    howie777 Posts: 357
    edited April 2006
    Thanks for the replies. I was totally wiped out last night. All I could think about near the end was finishing. but I wanted to post to get some info for when I woke up.

    Thanks,

    Howie
  • howie777
    howie777 Posts: 357
    edited April 2006
    OK, so I set the amp to no crossover, and -1.5 db on the tweeters. This is much better. Now my problem is it is very boomy. I only put diamplifer pro on the inner door skin and just where I installed the driver. I'm thinking if I can find a way to get it on the outer door skin, that may help. I think it might just be bouncing around in my door (which is sealed, you cannot even see the outer door skin unless you remove the speaker).

    I'll just leave it as is for month or so then think about more diamplifer pro.

    Howie
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited April 2006
    You may want to take the tweeters down even more to -3 db and see how that sounds.

    As for being boomy, I doubt that would have anything to do with your damping. If anything, that would improve the sound. You can also put damping inside the door panel itself. This will not only further dampen the door from vibration and resonance but it can also help to break up standing waves.

    Another neat little product is a Dynaxorb. They work on the same principle as the ones used in recording studios. I have on behind each speaker and think it helps. It may be my imagination but it cant hurt. It looks good in theory! ;)

    http://www.cardomain.com/item/DYN11800

    You should also mess around with the EQ some.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited April 2006
    An EQ can be very helpful in taming peaks that cause boomines, as well as harshness in the upper frequency range. What did you end up with as the x-over point for the midrange driver?
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • howie777
    howie777 Posts: 357
    edited April 2006
    Right now I have the crossovers turned off on the amp, and the tweets at -3db at the SR's crossovers. Still really boomy. My door isn't a normal door though, it is almost a sealed box. When it sounds boomy, the door is vibrating big time! So its like a 6.5 inch sub in a metal sealed enclosure.

    I will have to see about more diamplifer inside the door, not sure how well that will go over.

    I didn't like how Disturbed or Metallica sounds. But I put in some Satriani and it was 100x better. Could just need to play with it some more.

    I also have some vibration from my left tweeter, I need to clean that up some. Oh and I tested my windows, they do go all the way down, no hitting my speakers!

    Its raining here, or I'd go take and post pics.

    Howie
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited April 2006
    Turn on the x-over for the midrange. The supplied x-overs that came with the set seperates the frequencies between the tweeter and midrange. It does not have a built in highpass filter for the midrange. You would have to use the filter on the amp, or HU for this. Try doing this, it should alleviate some of that boomines.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited April 2006
    Yeah, try high- passing the mids at 50 Hz, maybe higher if there's still too much bass for your taste. You should try setting the tweeters higher as well (0 or +1 setting), maybe that's another reason it seems boomy to you.
  • howie777
    howie777 Posts: 357
    edited April 2006
    Thanks for all the help. I just need to play with my HU to get the sound just right. I had the EQ set to jazz/blues and the MX button on (alpine 9831) and it was just boosting the base too much. So I think all will be well.

    Thanks,

    Howie
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited April 2006
    Turn that MX thing off. If my Alpine CDA-7998 had BBE instead of the MX, it would still be in my car right now. Alpine's Media Expander is a joke. Most of the time it just muddies up the sound. It would sound ok on some songs, but for the most part it just made music sound worse. I think it is a wasted function and Alpine should have just paid the cash to BBE instead. At least the BBE processor makes the music sound nice.

    Do your tuning without that thing on. It will sound alot better....
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited April 2006
    Excellent point! Id forgotten all about the MX. You should definitely turn it OFF to do any tuning as it really inflates the low frequencies.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • howie777
    howie777 Posts: 357
    edited April 2006
    Things are much better now. All that is left is to figure out what to do with my tweeters (horrible looking install, cosmetic only, but still). And to redo the amp/crossovers as I want a much cleaner look. I just have 3/4" MFD on the floor of my trunk with the stuff mounted on it. It is carpeted, but still looks half assed. I'm thinking of building a new platform about 2.5" tall (basically a rectangular box) where I can run wires under and make a really clean looking install. Maybe make room for another amp in case a sub is in my future :D

    I can definatly see where a good install job can make a system shine. I think I could do better if I had more experience. Not too shabby though.

    Well the hot tub is calling this sore body...

    Howie