A Question Re: Tone
Let's say you want to build a subwoofer. Ideally, should the sub have the same driver (or the larger size) of the midrange/woofer contained in the speakers in order to maintain the same tonal quality?
Sure, all subs go "boom," but they don't all sound alike. In full range speakers the midrange and the woofers are usually from the same "family," correct? So using the same logic, should you build a sub with the same family of drivers as your speakers? Or does it really matter?
Thanks.
Sure, all subs go "boom," but they don't all sound alike. In full range speakers the midrange and the woofers are usually from the same "family," correct? So using the same logic, should you build a sub with the same family of drivers as your speakers? Or does it really matter?
Thanks.
HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes."
"God grooves with tubes."
Post edited by Early B. on
Comments
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Articulation and speed. My two main adjectives in the subwoofer realm.
Vandersteen and VMPS to name two. If they speak sans forked tounge, and can keep up with stats / ribbons - you're good to go with pretty much any speaker out there.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
OK, thanks fellas. Eventually I'm gonna need a high quality sub for my 2-channel system and I'm trying to determine whether or not I should build or buy. I'm off to do some more research.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
If you want to build a high quality sub for 2 channel, read up on dipole subs. It will likely be bigger than you want, because you need a lot of displacement. They are supposed to be the most musical subs out there, just like infinite baffle.
The next best choice would be to build the biggest box you can stand, and make a sealed sub with a good driver.Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15 -
As one that normally wouldn't consider a sub.....if you can find a Dahlquist DQ-1W (or whatever the designation is), I'd think about it. I seriously doubt that you could find a more musical woofer. It's passive so you would also need an amp and a crossover.
BDTI plan for the future. - F1Nut -
tryrrthg wrote:If you want to build a high quality sub for 2 channel, read up on dipole subs. It will likely be bigger than you want, because you need a lot of displacement. They are supposed to be the most musical subs out there, just like infinite baffle.
The next best choice would be to build the biggest box you can stand, and make a sealed sub with a good driver.
It's gotta be a relatively small sub (or two small ones!) if I want the sub(s) to be in close proximity and along the same plane as the speakers. I've got signficant space constraints and WAF considerations. The sub can be a little larger if I place it in the corner on the other side of the room, but I prefer not to do that. Ideally, a good driver(s) in a sealed, rectangular box would work well for my setup.
Got a few questions, so I'll continue this discussion in the DIY section.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes."