Volume/Power Question
Early B.
Posts: 7,900
Since I got my new speakers (Taylo ref. mon.), whenever I turn up the volume past the 12 o'clock point, the volume doesn't seem to rise very much. It appears as though my amp isn't interested in pumping out more power. I didn't have this issue with my previous speakers (the sensitivities of both speakers are similar (87 vs. 88), but I went from 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 inch drivers with more bass, if that makes any difference). I very rarely have a need to turn my volume beyond 12 o'clock, but today I had some friends over and while I was showing off my system, I turned up the dial, but the volume didn't rise accordingly. Anyone ever run into this "problem" before? I'm just wondering if I have reached the power limits of my amp or not...
Thanks.
P.S. -- I should also mention that the only minor complaint about my system is that it needs to be a bit a more dynamic, at times. Not sure if I need to roll tubes, try different interconnects or speaker cables, get a sub, or play around with the speakers. I already know my placement sucks 'cause of major room limitations.
Thanks.
P.S. -- I should also mention that the only minor complaint about my system is that it needs to be a bit a more dynamic, at times. Not sure if I need to roll tubes, try different interconnects or speaker cables, get a sub, or play around with the speakers. I already know my placement sucks 'cause of major room limitations.
HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes."
"God grooves with tubes."
Post edited by Early B. on
Comments
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Sounds like the amp has run outta steam.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
OK, so if the amp begins to run out of steam beyond 12 o'clock, is there any value to getting a more powerful amp for low to moderate listening levels?
Thought about it some more. I think a sub will help for the dynamic issue. Had a sub running with the previous speakers, but whenever I turned the sub off, it lost a little punch.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Speaking of subs...lol
You (Early) should REALLY check out Behringers Studio subwoofer (8" woofer) - 300 watt amp - 32hz response...
Thing is insanely musical and well worth the look - cost almost nothing.
http://www.behringer.com/B2092A/index.cfm?lang=ENG- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Early B. wrote:Since I got my new speakers (Taylo ref. mon.), whenever I turn up the volume past the 12 o'clock point, the volume doesn't seem to rise very much. It appears as though my amp isn't interested in pumping out more power. I didn't have this issue with my previous speakers (the sensitivities of both speakers are similar (87 vs. 88), but I went from 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 inch drivers with more bass, if that makes any difference). I very rarely have a need to turn my volume beyond 12 o'clock, but today I had some friends over and while I was showing off my system, I turned up the dial, but the volume didn't rise accordingly. Anyone ever run into this "problem" before? I'm just wondering if I have reached the power limits of my amp or not...
Thanks.
P.S. -- I should also mention that the only minor complaint about my system is that it needs to be a bit a more dynamic, at times. Not sure if I need to roll tubes, try different interconnects or speaker cables, get a sub, or play around with the speakers. I already know my placement sucks 'cause of major room limitations.
I've had issues with a preamp too weak for the task - the PS Audio PCA2 pre has to be pushed HARD to get my system cranking on certain CDs, and with DVDs I have to turn the dial way too damn much to get loud. When I swap in a Melos SHA-Gold or Sugden Headmaster as pre (no other changes), I don't have a problem - volume control is linear and I don't have to turn the dial more the 8:30 on the Sugden or 9:30 on the Melos (and that's LOUD). Funny, since my poweramp is a PS Audio HCA-2 (thought the PCA2 would match better). BTW the PCA2 lacks in dynamics compared to the other preamps, similar to your complaint. The Melos/Sugden sound more dynamic even at lower volumes. I guess if the HCA2/PCA2 combo features a week pre, this could be a problem with some integrated amps too. It's nice to be able to swap out preamps, they really do make a big difference in the sound.
I've also noticed with headphone systems (a headphone amp is basically a speaker preamp) that some headphone amps need serious working of the volume dial to get past a certain volume level with low-efficiency headphones.
I've got some Taylo Ref Monitors too, btw - they sound real nice with tube gear in the chain (my Melos)Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010 -
mulveling wrote:The power amp could be at fault, but did you consider it might actually be the preamp?
I'm using a Jolida 502A - a tube integrated amp with 60 wpc.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Early B. wrote:I'm using a Jolida 502A - a tube integrated amp with 60 wpc.Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010
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I've had the same problem with seperates too but the 502 has a really robust preamp section. Have you tried the other taps for the speakers by chance?
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
madmax wrote:Have you tried the other taps for the speakers by chance?
madmax
Not sure why, but this works!! Max, if you were a pretty, voluptuous woman with a cute butt, I'd kiss you.
Although the Taylos are rated at 8 ohms, I switched to the 4 ohm taps and it seems to give them a little more power beyond 12 o'clock.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Does this happen if you take your new tripplite out of the mix? There is a chance your new tripplite is limiting the current to your amp...Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
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tryrrthg wrote:Does this happen if you take your new tripplite out of the mix? There is a chance your new tripplite is limiting the current to your amp...
NM. OK, I'll try that.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Actually, I would have initially thought that moving from the 8 ohm taps to the 4 ohm taps would have made it worse but I keep getting the logic mixed up between SS and tubes. It appears that the speakers are needing more current thus they must have a real life impedance lower than your previous speakers, at least in relation to the ratings.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
Glad to hear you got the problem sorted out. I'm also using the 4 Ohm output taps on my speakers. Sounds more powerful and bass performance is beter.