Volume/Power Question

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Early B.
Early B. Posts: 7,900
edited April 2006 in 2 Channel Audio
Since I got my new speakers (Taylo ref. mon.), whenever I turn up the volume past the 12 o'clock point, the volume doesn't seem to rise very much. It appears as though my amp isn't interested in pumping out more power. I didn't have this issue with my previous speakers (the sensitivities of both speakers are similar (87 vs. 88), but I went from 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 inch drivers with more bass, if that makes any difference). I very rarely have a need to turn my volume beyond 12 o'clock, but today I had some friends over and while I was showing off my system, I turned up the dial, but the volume didn't rise accordingly. Anyone ever run into this "problem" before? I'm just wondering if I have reached the power limits of my amp or not...

Thanks.


P.S. -- I should also mention that the only minor complaint about my system is that it needs to be a bit a more dynamic, at times. Not sure if I need to roll tubes, try different interconnects or speaker cables, get a sub, or play around with the speakers. I already know my placement sucks 'cause of major room limitations.
HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

"God grooves with tubes."
Post edited by Early B. on

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,856
    edited April 2006
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    Sounds like the amp has run outta steam.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2006
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    OK, so if the amp begins to run out of steam beyond 12 o'clock, is there any value to getting a more powerful amp for low to moderate listening levels?

    Thought about it some more. I think a sub will help for the dynamic issue. Had a sub running with the previous speakers, but whenever I turned the sub off, it lost a little punch.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,112
    edited April 2006
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    Speaking of subs...lol

    You (Early) should REALLY check out Behringers Studio subwoofer (8" woofer) - 300 watt amp - 32hz response...

    Thing is insanely musical and well worth the look - cost almost nothing.

    http://www.behringer.com/B2092A/index.cfm?lang=ENG
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mulveling
    mulveling Posts: 505
    edited April 2006
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    Early B. wrote:
    Since I got my new speakers (Taylo ref. mon.), whenever I turn up the volume past the 12 o'clock point, the volume doesn't seem to rise very much. It appears as though my amp isn't interested in pumping out more power. I didn't have this issue with my previous speakers (the sensitivities of both speakers are similar (87 vs. 88), but I went from 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 inch drivers with more bass, if that makes any difference). I very rarely have a need to turn my volume beyond 12 o'clock, but today I had some friends over and while I was showing off my system, I turned up the dial, but the volume didn't rise accordingly. Anyone ever run into this "problem" before? I'm just wondering if I have reached the power limits of my amp or not...

    Thanks.


    P.S. -- I should also mention that the only minor complaint about my system is that it needs to be a bit a more dynamic, at times. Not sure if I need to roll tubes, try different interconnects or speaker cables, get a sub, or play around with the speakers. I already know my placement sucks 'cause of major room limitations.
    The power amp could be at fault, but did you consider it might actually be the preamp? The power amp is just going to amplify what it's fed by a fixed amount - and the preamp is what feeds it. When a poweramp runs out of steam I think you'd hear clipping, which you didn't indicate. When a preamp runs out of steam, you have to turn that volume dial a LOT for a little gain.

    I've had issues with a preamp too weak for the task - the PS Audio PCA2 pre has to be pushed HARD to get my system cranking on certain CDs, and with DVDs I have to turn the dial way too damn much to get loud. When I swap in a Melos SHA-Gold or Sugden Headmaster as pre (no other changes), I don't have a problem - volume control is linear and I don't have to turn the dial more the 8:30 on the Sugden or 9:30 on the Melos (and that's LOUD). Funny, since my poweramp is a PS Audio HCA-2 (thought the PCA2 would match better). BTW the PCA2 lacks in dynamics compared to the other preamps, similar to your complaint. The Melos/Sugden sound more dynamic even at lower volumes. I guess if the HCA2/PCA2 combo features a week pre, this could be a problem with some integrated amps too. It's nice to be able to swap out preamps, they really do make a big difference in the sound.

    I've also noticed with headphone systems (a headphone amp is basically a speaker preamp) that some headphone amps need serious working of the volume dial to get past a certain volume level with low-efficiency headphones.

    I've got some Taylo Ref Monitors too, btw - they sound real nice with tube gear in the chain (my Melos) :D
    Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2006
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    mulveling wrote:
    The power amp could be at fault, but did you consider it might actually be the preamp?

    I'm using a Jolida 502A - a tube integrated amp with 60 wpc.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • mulveling
    mulveling Posts: 505
    edited April 2006
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    Early B. wrote:
    I'm using a Jolida 502A - a tube integrated amp with 60 wpc.
    Right, but an integrated is just a preamp and a power amp in one box. I'd be suspicious that the preamp section isn't as powerful as it could be - it's not tapping into what the power amp section might be capable of. Of course if that's the case then there's not much you can do short of a new integrated or going separates (I don't suppose your integrated has a "pre-in"). Your complaints sound just like what I experienced with the PS Audio PCA2/HCA2 combo.
    Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited April 2006
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    I've had the same problem with seperates too but the 502 has a really robust preamp section. Have you tried the other taps for the speakers by chance?
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2006
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    madmax wrote:
    Have you tried the other taps for the speakers by chance?
    madmax

    Not sure why, but this works!! Max, if you were a pretty, voluptuous woman with a cute butt, I'd kiss you.

    Although the Taylos are rated at 8 ohms, I switched to the 4 ohm taps and it seems to give them a little more power beyond 12 o'clock.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited April 2006
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    Does this happen if you take your new tripplite out of the mix? There is a chance your new tripplite is limiting the current to your amp...
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2006
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    tryrrthg wrote:
    Does this happen if you take your new tripplite out of the mix? There is a chance your new tripplite is limiting the current to your amp...

    NM. OK, I'll try that.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited April 2006
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    Actually, I would have initially thought that moving from the 8 ohm taps to the 4 ohm taps would have made it worse but I keep getting the logic mixed up between SS and tubes. It appears that the speakers are needing more current thus they must have a real life impedance lower than your previous speakers, at least in relation to the ratings.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited April 2006
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    Glad to hear you got the problem sorted out. I'm also using the 4 Ohm output taps on my speakers. Sounds more powerful and bass performance is beter.