New amps; bi-amp or bridge?

AndyGwis
AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
edited April 2006 in Electronics
I have one for you "experts" on bi-amping versus bridged: I just "inherited" two carver tfm-6cb amps rated at 65 wpc stereo for 8-ohms, 200 wpc bridged for 8-ohms only. I also have a HK 635 rated at 75 wpc 8-ohms all channels driven and 90 wpc 8-ohms 2-channel (stereo). My front speakers are Monitor 60s.

Which option do you think would be best:
1)Use one of the carvers. Run HK635 to front highs and bi-amp lows with the Carver in stereo (2 channel). Sell the other or save for later use.
2)Use both the carvers. Bridge amp for each front speaker to get 200wpc.
3)Use both carvers. Bi-amp each speaker with carvers in stereo mode.
4)Sell the carvers on ebay. Buy better speakers with money (but, then I would have to buy more amps to power the better speakers. . . catch 22).

Thanks for any advice that can be offered. I am a noob in North Dallas area (near Addison) if anyone would be interested in helping to advise/validate my setup in exchange for beer.
Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
Post edited by AndyGwis on

Comments

  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited April 2006
    is bi amping that important to you? Just trying to figure out if it's where you want to go, or have to go.

    Since you have a home theater, I'd wouldn't bi amp any of your speakers... and use the Carvers for your fronts, and surrounds. Then get one mono amp for your center.

    But then i'm a simpleton too... i like to keep things as simple as possible.

    I also like plan 4 too.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited April 2006
    Bi-amping just seemed like a way to get more power to my fronts than I would have without using the Carvers at all. Are there any downsides to bi-amping, or just not that much benefit?
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited April 2006
    It's hard to say what to do. Each person's system and preferences are different. If it were me I'd give both a fair demo and see which you prefer. Since I'm not familiar with running an AVR as a pre, I'm not sure if you can run the main speaker outputs if you are using the pre-outs for external amplification. I know some people use 2nd zones settings to bi-amp, not sure if that's ideal. Bridging may yeild better results, give both a try and see how it works

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited April 2006
    #4. The Monitor 60 are fine for Polk's entry level speaker, there are other greater things in store for you.

    RT1
  • marker
    marker Posts: 1,084
    edited April 2006
    Of course it varies in each individual amp's and/or speaker's case, but as a general rule of thunb, bridging increases the amp's distortion rating.

    However, it does allow the speaker itself to "decide" where to put the power relative to it's drivers instead of having more than is needed going to the tweeters and not enough to the woofers.