Setup help with "older" system

PioneerRich
PioneerRich Posts: 12
I hope someone can help, my speakers and receiver are around 6-8years old, and every now and then I struggle to make sure I'm working everything in the best possible way.

I have:
Pioneer VSX-D709S receiver (6years old)
Polk Audio RM Series II sattelites and sub (got from friend who I think bought in a package together, around 8 or so years old? I don't have any documentation)

Currently I have the set up as follows:

Front speakers (L & R) are wired to the sub, and the sub is wired to the receiver via speaker wire, and not the sub out with sub cable.

Receiver settings:
Crossover: 150khz
Front (L & R) : set to Large
Centre & Surrounds: set to small
Subwoofer: set to "off"

Can anyone recommend whether I have the system set up optimally, and if not what should my settings for this combination be?

Has anyone had experience with my Pioneer receiver and comments on its quality? I thought the receiver had problems when I bought it because the sub didn't seem to work with the sub out cable, yet when I took it back to the store and hooked it up to another sub, it worked fine? I think I went through every bass setting to get the sub to work, but eventually hooked it to the receiver via speaker wire method.

If I wanted to change out my speakers and go with some RTi's or LSi's (and centers), can I use the sub, or would I need to get another sub, as I don't think I'd like to use the speaker wire method with some better speakers?

Thanks,
Richard
Post edited by PioneerRich on

Comments

  • cmy330go
    cmy330go Posts: 2,341
    edited March 2006
    Is the subwoofer powered?
    HT
    Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600

    2 CH
    Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,
  • PioneerRich
    PioneerRich Posts: 12
    edited March 2006
    Yes it is powered.

    If I was to guess on the model, it's the PSW-050. I'd pull it out of the shelf, but that would involve a lot work unhooking speaker wire, and moving the amp/receiver above it so that I could hook it back up again.

    I do know that my sub only has the "volume" control on the back, and no crossover control. There are the speaker wire inputs/outputs, and also the line in for the sub cable. I can't remember if the line in has both red and white rca connectors or just one connector.
  • cmy330go
    cmy330go Posts: 2,341
    edited March 2006
    It sounds to me like it is most likely connected the best way, or at least what polk would suggest. As an alternative you should be able to connect an RCA sub cable from the receiver to the sub and then wire the sats directly to the receiver. This would then pass crossover duties to your receiver, and possibly allow you tweak the sound more, by allowing you to adjust sub crossover and level from the receiver. It is however somewhat doubtful that it would make the speakers sound any better. Should you choose to do this, be sure to set the sat speakers to "small" on the receiver, and the sub to "on".

    The receiver you have is not great, but is an okay choice for running small satellite systems. Should you choose to upgrade to the RTis or LSis I would heavily recommend a serious upgrade. Should you choose to go that route you should be able to find many answers to your questions just by searching the forum. The subject of which receiver to buy has been covered many times here. Should you come up with a question you can't find the answer for just ask.:)

    Hope this helps you out. Welcome to the forum Richard!
    Dave
    HT
    Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600

    2 CH
    Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,
  • PioneerRich
    PioneerRich Posts: 12
    edited March 2006
    Thanks for your help Dave.

    I was having problems with the sub hooked up via the sub cable, and not getting much bass out of it.

    I "think" my sub has the left and right rca inputs on the back of it (red and white). Should I get a y-adapter then and use both inputs? It seemed that the one input didn't seem to work very well when I hooked it all up.

    The speaker wire method definately seemed to work the best for some reason with the sub.

    What I can see happening is what you've mentioned, that being a serious upgrade.
  • cmy330go
    cmy330go Posts: 2,341
    edited March 2006
    You're welcome Richard.

    A Y-adapter will give you more volume from that connection. Not a ton, but some. By all means feel free to try it.

    Dave
    HT
    Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600

    2 CH
    Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,