Maybe a dumd question, but I'd still like to know.
millerman 3732
Posts: 1,488
What most determines a sub overall frequency response? The encloser, the subwoofer it's self, or a combination of both?
Casey
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Polk RTi 10 (bi-amped)
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TV Rig: Samsung 50'' 4k display
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Post edited by millerman 3732 on
Comments
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Both of these, and others factors like placement and room acoustics as well.
I can take my SVS from my living room into the Master bedroom and get a totally different FR curve... -
is there anything that is more important than the others?Casey
H/T: Epson 6500ub
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Velodyne SMS-1
TV Rig: Samsung 50'' 4k display
Polk Signa-1 Surround bar -
Woofer design determines how much air it can move. (cross section of woofer * distance (in and out) that it can travel.)
The woofer and enclosure together determine the frequency response. (same woofer in sealed, ported, and infinite baffle enclosures will all have different frequency response, efficiency and sound).
Room (dimentions and sub placement) and the sub (woofer, enclosure size, sub design and amplifier power) determine volume the sub is capable of and where peaks and valleys in the frequency charts are.
It all plays together, but I would say the room is the most important. You can make a pretty bad sub sound pretty good in the right room. There are other rooms that any sub, reguardless of cost or design, will sound like crap in.
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
McLoki wrote:Woofer design determines how much air it can move. (cross section of woofer * distance (in and out) that it can travel.)
The woofer and enclosure together determine the frequency response. (same woofer in sealed, ported, and infinite baffle enclosures will all have different frequency response, efficiency and sound).
Room (dimentions and sub placement) and the sub (woofer, enclosure size, sub design and amplifier power) determine volume the sub is capable of and where peaks and valleys in the frequency charts are.
It all plays together, but I would say the room is the most important. You can make a pretty bad sub sound pretty good in the right room. There are other rooms that any sub, reguardless of cost or design, will sound like crap in.
MichaelCasey
H/T: Epson 6500ub
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TV Rig: Samsung 50'' 4k display
Polk Signa-1 Surround bar -
Sorry, but even though I agree that you need to play with the placement any sub in any room to maximize the sub's performance, I gotta say that the sub is #1.
As for what bit of the sub? I'd give the edge to Displacement, or the amount of air its driver(s) can move, but it's more of a photo finish, here...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
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millerman 3732 wrote:thanks that clears up alot; one more qeustion, I've seen some of the folks here, like yourself, have SVS's with a 20hz tune how does work?
The tuning of a sub is a function of how much air can move in and out of the enclosure (How big a hole is in the sub) and the length of the port. (like an organs pipes are different lengths and diameters for different frequencies)
I have an SVS subwoofer that has 3 3" ports in it. SVS designed the sub that I have to have a flat frequency response curve (in an open area - no room gain factored in at all) at 25 hz. I can plug one port and have a fairly flat frequency response to 20 hz. (with a little less output since there is not as much port area to flow the air out of) I could also plug another port and have a less flat response curve and much lower output but have the sub play at 16 hz.
With room gain factored in, I get a good response in-room with one port plugged so that is how I run it.
Setting the ports up so you can tune it like that, I am sure, was not an easy feat. Cudos to SVS for pulling it off as well as they did.
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
I think McLoki pretty much beat you to it...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
... and while there's no such thing as a dumb question... I'm not sure about a "dumd" question...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
WAA! edit, edit, edit, aww, forget it everybodys alresdy seen now.Casey
H/T: Epson 6500ub
Sony UBP-X800
Toshiba HD-XA2 (HD-DVD, CD)
Onkyo 805 (pre-amp)
Outlaw 7125
Polk RTi 10 (bi-amped)
Polk CSi5 (bi-amped)
Polk RTi6
SVS PB 12 plus/2
Velodyne SMS-1
TV Rig: Samsung 50'' 4k display
Polk Signa-1 Surround bar