truck fixing time... the answer to "what's that banging noise", that I didn't want...

nadams
nadams Posts: 5,877
edited April 2024 in Clubhouse Archives
So, last night I went to wash out the back of my truck, and pulled it forward up a bank, but a little off-kilter so it was flexing the truck (not enough room to pull it straight up the bank). As I was nearing my stopping point, I heard a "bang" from the back of the truck. "That's odd," I said to myself, "I've never heard that from there before." Thinking nothing more of it, I rinsed out the bed, pulled the truck down, and went on my business. For those wondering, the driver's side rear was EXtended, meaning the most space in the wheel well, when it was flexing.

Fast forward to this afternoon. I went to pull back into my driveway after work. You enter my driveway with a left-turn, and it slopes up immediately, so you're flexing a little when you enter (the same flex that I was getting last night on the bank, just not as severe). Sure as shat, when I pulled into the driveway, I got a "bang". I had to leave to run into town, didn't hear a thing until I got back to the driveway, and again, a "bang". Then, I'll be damned if I didn't have to run out to the store, and was greeting upon my arrival back home, to another "bang". At least it was being consistant... So I decided to crawl under and see what I could see to see. Unfortunately, this is what I found:

tn_med_100_1596.jpg

Driver's side, the far back spring hanger... or what USED to be a spring hangar, hah.

tn_med_100_1597.jpg

tn_med_100_1601.jpg

I think the source of the "bang"ing, might be these two boltheads rubbing on each other.

tn_med_100_1602.jpg

Look how uncompressed that bottom leaf is...

It looks a lot to me like this thing broke a while ago, and maybe I just now shifted it to where it's rubbing on that other bolt... or maybe I just broke it last night, I can't say for sure. As another aside, the reason I was washing out the bed of the truck is that I removed the winter weight from back there and wanted to get rid of the leftover grit. So I also uncompressed the springs bigtime last night (less about 300lbs).
Ludicrous gibs!
Post edited by RyanC_Masimo on

Comments

  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    I'm thoroughly confused. Are you drunk, or am I?
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2006
    Just throw some JB Weld on it.
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  • Demiurge
    Demiurge Posts: 10,874
    edited March 2006
    Nothin' a little duct tape won't fix. :D
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2006
    Salt Rust....


    That's why I live in South, not North.

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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,822
    edited March 2006
    Demiurge wrote:
    Nothin' a little duct tape won't fix. :D

    Demi - YOU SUCK - I was going to say that!!!

    LOL

    Sorry to see that - it dosnt look good though - good luck with the fix
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited March 2006
    Great pictures though....:)
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  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,614
    edited March 2006
    When I lived in upstate N.Y. , I used to have stuff like that all the time.
    I had the driver's seat fall part way through the floorboard one morning on a 71 Dart. I aslo had a transmission bracket dissolve under a Ford LTD. In Dallas, the only thing to worry about is changing brake pads every year.
    Looks like you're gonna need a torch to get that out!
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited March 2006
    That other leaf is supposed to be like that. It is a "helper spring" that doesn't come into play until you have a heavy load. As for the spring hanger, a can of WD-40 and a couple hours and you'll be fine.
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    Josh,

    Yeah, I know that the helper spring doesn't touch the rest of the leaf pack, but it's got a much larger gap than the helper on the other side. The springs are definately unloaded...

    Stopped at the shop this morning. They looked at it and said that nothing else was broken, but both of the rear spring shackles need to be replaced (one per side). So the estimate is $250 for the whole thing. They'll be doing it on Monday because they can't get the parts 'til then :(.
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    Here's what the other side looks like:

    tn_med_100_1603.jpg
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited March 2006
    if you catn do it yorself, get that fixed. I was never a big fan of having my suspension goofy, especially in a truck.

    250.00? sounds good to me
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    I don't think I'm going to attempt to do it myself... The shop's not trying to rip me off, that's for sure. I looked at the estimate, it was $43/bracket and 2 hours of labor at $55/hr. Then some misc nuts and bolts to round it out. AllData Pro says 1 hour per bracket, and Autozone sells the brackets for $42, so I think the price is fair.
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited March 2006
    Also looks like you need to drop a couple buck for a can of Rustoleum...
    More later,
    Tour...
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  • Fireman32
    Fireman32 Posts: 4,845
    edited March 2006
    looks like my truck. Time for a trade in
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    A trade-in just for that? Some people are a bit wasteful when it comes to vehicles...
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2006
    nadams wrote:
    A trade-in just for that? Some people are a bit wasteful when it comes to vehicles...


    Like you this alone wouldn't be large enough reason for trading in.


    But looking back at picture's you need to pressure wash under you're truck for often, you need to remove all other rust and paint these area's. I'm more concern about the sheet metal vs. the frame it self. Not doing so you will be trading this in faster then you think.

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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    Well, I got it fixed but it incurred some additional costs. They replaced both shackles, and when they removed the right-side shackel they found that the hanger on that side had a hole rusted in it, too. Tack on another $80some in parts and labor, plus a PA inspection (due at the end of the month anyway) and out the door we go. $373.75 lighter in pocket.

    Driver's side shackel replaced
    tn_med_100_1607.jpg

    Passenger's side shackel and bracket replaced.
    tn_med_100_1610.jpg
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited March 2006
    You still have some issue's with rust under that truck, I like the "Passenger's side shackel and bracket replaced" but don't like the drivers side braket. I think you saved $80 right now but will need to spend this $ later, for this braket IMHO.

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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    I just did what they told me to do... He said the drivers side may look bad, but it's just surface rust now. The passengers side had a big hole in the top... he showed it to me. I'm sure he would've replaced it if he had thought it was an issue... after all, he would've gotten another $55 in labor. I'm hoping to get rid of this truck soon, as I'm going to be doing a longer commute once I start my new job next week, and it's just not fuel efficient enough for that. I may have saved myself $80 permanently :D
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited March 2006
    at least dude who did the work attempted to put anti-seize on the bolt, not that it'll really matter when the time comes to replace it again. just shows he's a decent mechanic.

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  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited March 2006
    Am I reading this correctly? You paid to have those parts replaced?

    You need to top off the tank, load up on Twinkies and drive your a$$ over her so as I can slapsomesenseintoya! Turning wrenches on that would have been a breeze and a whole lot less expensive. There's mabe 440-60 worth of parts there...provided that you don't pay a dealer for 'em. PB Blaster for about $2-3 to penetrate the rust.....


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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    Err... I did post... before I took it to the garage, even.

    It was much easier and less time consuming to pay my trustworthy garage to do it. Plus they give me free stuff in return :)
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited March 2006
    Yeah, but you could have spent the coin on something cool.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited March 2006
    Gees! I'm glad I can do my own stuff. Almost $4 bills. I would've done it for $150 and offered you a beer afterwards.
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2006
    If I had the time... i do alot of the quick stuff myself, like plug changes, oil changes, and stuff like that. The bigger stuff I take to the pros. I did put my exhaust on myself, and change my tranny fluid :)
    Ludicrous gibs!