I swithced out my stock jumpers and..
phipiper10
Posts: 955
It would be easy to say there is more detail? I'm really not sure but I feel cool just for having done it.
I did in fact hear something for the first time that I hadn't heard when I listened to track 2 of Sarah McLachlans Solace. About 42 in there is a slight pop (her lips maybe- she isn't just taking a breath or maybe it's something else I don't believe it was intended to be there.) I had listened to this track about 10 times this weekend after upgrading my ICs.
Anyway my question is why would I bother with heat shrink? I've seen many people referring to having done this for their homemade jumpers. Seems stripping some decently insulated speaker wire to but plastic over instead would be odd but maybe I'm missing something.
I'm open to other suggestions on how to best do this. Of course going to say a 10awg is one option and the second would be to shorten what I have down to just the distance between the posts. So I'm aware but not sure how much benefit there might be???
Also note that one banana plug (left -zoom in) won't go in all the way. This is the same on the other main speaker. Just one won't go in completely. I've pushed pretty hard but don't want to mess up the posts.
Other thoughts suggestions, experiences? I'm open to suggestions and of course I'm particularly curious about using the heatshrink. I will say I believe definitevely that the Diamondback interconnects were an upgrade over the Copperheads I had.
Rich
I did in fact hear something for the first time that I hadn't heard when I listened to track 2 of Sarah McLachlans Solace. About 42 in there is a slight pop (her lips maybe- she isn't just taking a breath or maybe it's something else I don't believe it was intended to be there.) I had listened to this track about 10 times this weekend after upgrading my ICs.
Anyway my question is why would I bother with heat shrink? I've seen many people referring to having done this for their homemade jumpers. Seems stripping some decently insulated speaker wire to but plastic over instead would be odd but maybe I'm missing something.
I'm open to other suggestions on how to best do this. Of course going to say a 10awg is one option and the second would be to shorten what I have down to just the distance between the posts. So I'm aware but not sure how much benefit there might be???
Also note that one banana plug (left -zoom in) won't go in all the way. This is the same on the other main speaker. Just one won't go in completely. I've pushed pretty hard but don't want to mess up the posts.
Other thoughts suggestions, experiences? I'm open to suggestions and of course I'm particularly curious about using the heatshrink. I will say I believe definitevely that the Diamondback interconnects were an upgrade over the Copperheads I had.
Rich
Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
Post edited by phipiper10 on
Comments
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Correction it was actually "Wait" from Fumblig Toward Ectasy where I hear the little "pop" in case anyone else was actually going to try to hear it.Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
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You could always use premium quality stuff instead of the MC.
These Kimbers are only $1800.................HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
You don't need heatshrink and what you've done is fine. No need to shorten the jumpers or remove the spades. Relax and enjoy.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Try rotating the banana about 1/16" and reseating it. I have a terminal on my parasound that I have to this with because of a slight burr in the terminal channel.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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F1nut wrote:You don't need heatshrink and what you've done is fine. No need to shorten the jumpers or remove the spades. Relax and enjoy.
Plus 1.
On spades: Get rid of the spades? Yeah. I'll just chop them off my 25 hundred dollar Dragons and they'll be so much better.:rolleyes: Quality spade connections will be the least of your worrys.steveinaz wrote:Try rotating the banana about 1/16" and reseating it. I have a terminal on my parasound that I have to this with because of a slight burr in the terminal channel.
Plus 1 here too.
On Polk's posts: As much I like Polk I do have to say that their posts leave a bit to be desired. They're much better than they used to be but could still be improved upon. You could do this yourself quite easily though. -
Regarding where to place plugs. Of course I can try it at home but is there any reason for better or worse to plug into the top vs. bottom binding posts and vice versa?Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
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It makes no difference in your case.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1nut wrote:It makes no difference in your case.
+1.
Spade connections are the preferred connector whenever you have the ability to use a high quality one.
You did a nice job.
RT1