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zombie boy 2000
zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
edited February 2006 in Speakers
I just bought some cheap Acoustic Research banana plugs (AP 307's) to fit on some 10 gauge wire, so you may want to file this thread under the "what was he smokin' and/or tokin' category." :p Either way, anyone familiar with these, and better yet, do I stand a snowball's chance at making them work?
If not, I'll just use 'em for something else...
I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
Post edited by zombie boy 2000 on
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited February 2006
    Just pull down (or off) the red and black insulators and you'll see set screws. Unscrew them, place the bare wire inside and tighten the set screw then replace the insulator. Is that what you were asking? :confused:
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited February 2006
    well yes/no...
    looks like you can feed the wire inside, but further up, there looks to be a smaller hole about 1/4" deep -- i'm assuming this is were the wire needs to connect
    i can put the 10 gauge easily into the first hole, but it's not all going through the second if you catch my drift
    so should the screw tighten on the bare wire? it was my understanding that the screw was there to hold the "jacketed portion" of the wire in place, with the bare portion inserted into the aforementioned 1/4" hole?
    and if the screw just tightens on the bare wire, will there be any problems with so much of the wire "exposed" or is this what the insulation is for?
    this is really no big deal, but i appreciate your response dragon :)
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited February 2006
    The set screw screws down on the bare wire. Just twist the wire reall good and you can fold it over and double it up for a tighter fit. You can cut the wire so that no bare wire is visible but the insulators should cover it. I usually leave the bare wire long enough to fit all the way up and then tighten, but it doesn't necessarily have to go all the way up. The entire connector is part of the conductor.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited February 2006
    thanks dragon.. makes all the sense in the world
    i guess that "hole" farther up in the plug had me second guessing the "hole thing" (groan....)
    appreciate your time :)
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited February 2006
    You're very welcome my fine young ghoul. yeah, that hole is probably where it narrows out and the nanner tip starts.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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