Replaced my tweeters!

Flash21
Flash21 Posts: 316
edited February 2006 in Vintage Speakers
Upon advice from this forum, the other night I replaced the SL2000 tweeters in my Monitor 10Bs with the silk-dome RD0194-1 tweeters. Install is a snap, except for puzzling for a moment over which wire to which terminal...absolutely no information on front or back of the tweeter as to orientation, even the Polk logo goes all the way around. I decided the red terminal gets the black wire, and the unmarked terminal gets the white. Put a little Walker SST contact enhancer on there, clipped the wires on, screwed them back in the speakers and off we went!

Out of the box they sounded very meek, but what do you expect with zero break-in...soon they were opening up nicely, and now I give them a thumbs-up. I feared they would sound too laid back after living with the SL2000s for 20 years, but that isn't a problem at all. They aren't really that different from the old ones, they just lack that "bite" that can sound a little harsh at volume.

So if you don't mine spending $96, I can add my recommendation to this swap.
Steve Carlson
Von Schweikert VR-33 speakers
Bel Canto eVo2i integrated amp
Bel Canto PL-2 universal disc player
Analysis Plus Oval Nine speaker cables and Copper Oval-In Micro interconnects
VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables
Polk Monitor 10B speakers, retired but not forgotten
Post edited by Flash21 on

Comments

  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited February 2006
    Probably would've been the other way around... white to red, black to unmarked.
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • Flash21
    Flash21 Posts: 316
    edited February 2006
    Not saying you are wrong, because I really don't know in this case...but in most conventional wiring, the "hot" terminal is the "colored" one, such as the brass-colored screw of an AC outlet vs. the silver screw...and the black wire is the "hot", while the white is the "neutral". Lacking any directions or other markings with the tweeters, that convention is what I went with.

    Of course it is certainly possible that Polk did it differently in their speakers...
    Steve Carlson
    Von Schweikert VR-33 speakers
    Bel Canto eVo2i integrated amp
    Bel Canto PL-2 universal disc player
    Analysis Plus Oval Nine speaker cables and Copper Oval-In Micro interconnects
    VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables
    Polk Monitor 10B speakers, retired but not forgotten
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2006
    Nadams, I was corrected by polk CS, that black is always positive in all of their lines and white is negative. Unfortunatly have no way of testing this out. Nadams, did you run a test to show that black is negative? On my vintage 7b's I was alittle confused also. How would you, or anyone else, reccomend the easiest way to test this? Cs told me this , but the tone in his voice suggested uncertainty as well.

    Jake
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited February 2006
    SDA, RTA and Monitor series:
    Black or blue is positive
    White or green is negative

    Flash, you got it right.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Flash21
    Flash21 Posts: 316
    edited February 2006
    :):D :cool:
    Steve Carlson
    Von Schweikert VR-33 speakers
    Bel Canto eVo2i integrated amp
    Bel Canto PL-2 universal disc player
    Analysis Plus Oval Nine speaker cables and Copper Oval-In Micro interconnects
    VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables
    Polk Monitor 10B speakers, retired but not forgotten
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited February 2006
    Woops.. my bad. Guess I should check my drivers, then.
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2006
    What happened to just simple ol' red and black? :p
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited February 2006
    in my SRS. i had one white and one beige in one tweeter?? the rest were white and or green or none at all.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • djf
    djf Posts: 120
    edited February 2006
    Flash21 wrote:
    Not saying you are wrong, because I really don't know in this case...but in most conventional wiring, the "hot" terminal is the "colored" one, such as the brass-colored screw of an AC outlet vs. the silver screw...and the black wire is the "hot", while the white is the "neutral". Lacking any directions or other markings with the tweeters, that convention is what I went with.

    Of course it is certainly possible that Polk did it differently in their speakers...

    There is a way to do it and be totally certain, which I discovered when doing mine.
    The back of the SRS's have a red terminal and a black, with the black being ground. I ran a wire from this terminal long enough to come around the front.

    WITH THE TWEETER STILL CONNECTED, I checked the resistance from each of the terminals to the black wire.

    Don't pay attention to the measured resistance on the meter. The readings are so close it is an unreliable indicator.
    Your ears will tell you. When you bridge (-) to (-) you will hear nothing. When you bridge (+) to (-), you will hear a small pop as the tweeter kicks in due to the ultra low voltage the ohmmeter puts out it uses to measure resistance.
  • dbnh
    dbnh Posts: 194
    edited February 2006
    Nice to hear from another SST user. Happy listening!