Seeking opinions...

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,732
edited February 2006 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Ok... This is a tempting thing to do...

Do you think it would be worthwhile to list my rebuilt, fully modded BP10Bs on the bay...

And Im talking about a 1,000 dollar starting bid... 1,300 BIN...

Fully rebuilt, inert, solid wood panels, modded xovers, all that...

Any opinions?
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
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Comments

  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited February 2006
    why would you want to sell them...?
    you put a lot of work into them..

    not to say bad things little bro, but what kind of wood did you use ?
    for that kind of money, I would want some exotic type wood...not so shiny also

    not saying they don`t look great and sound great, but just a thought
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Well...

    They have a MDF build, 1" front and back panels...

    Modded Crossovers & Binding Post

    .5" Cedar Side panels

    Higher grade internal foam

    3/4" Birch Plywood bracing, 230" additional bracing (all compensated for) of the original...

    Mirror imaged design for better imaging and clarity

    So many things about it that are better - if people are willing to pay 1 grand new for a stock one, why not for a fully tricked out one...

    Im not saying they'd sell, but if I can get 1,000 + out of them, they would be gone in a heart beat.

    If I sold them, there would be LSi in my future, most likely.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited February 2006
    by all means bro...post em
    what do you have to lose ?!
    I`m sure they are well worth the asking price...I`m just thinking about all the work you put into them.
    I know you get alot of enjoyment, and great satisfaction when you do these kinds of projects...and you are good at it..!
    I have no doubt you will start another project soon anyway..!!!!

    I would like to see ya get into some LSi`s..
    and some momo`s for the truck..!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Well, while I love these speakers to death and Id hate to see them go...

    I also understand the fact that the BP10B is a plentiful speaker out there and can be found almost anywhere at cheap prices...

    Not to mention Ill have a pair of enclosures left behind to fill back up with drivers and crossovers! ;) (or to sell also)...

    If I could sell them for 1 grand (and beyond).... and I could find another tower/bookshelf replacement in the 500-600 range, thatd be a nice chunk of change in my pocket that I could really use right now....

    Theres just alot pointing for me to sell them...

    I may list them as soon as I get done with the other one ---

    But Id like to get some more opinions, it wont be cheap to list them - that is for sure.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited February 2006
    If you can get $1000 for them, then **** yeah, sell them.

    Truth is, I seriously doubt anyone will buy them. Why get a rebuilt set of DT's when you can buy a pair of LSi 15's? They look great and all, but they're worth more to you than anyone else is going to pay for them.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,413
    edited February 2006
    I small dose of reality: you will be lucky to get what they normally go for used, let alone more, and your dreaming if you think you can get retail and beyond.

    Try this

    1. Offer the rebuilt cabinets up for sale without drivers and crossover.

    2. Then offer the standard cabinets, drivers and the UPGRADED crossovers in another auction.

    I might be wrong, but that's my opinion of how you could get the most money.
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited February 2006
    I don't like to buy "upgraded" stuff. Too many stupid people doing stupid things to take a chance. I would much rather have a non-modified one unless I have knowledge of the person who did the modifications.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2006
    hoosier21 wrote:
    I small dose of reality: you will be lucky to get what they normally go for used, let alone more, and your dreaming if you think you can get retail and beyond.

    Try this

    1. Offer the rebuilt cabinets up for sale without drivers and crossover.

    2. Then offer the standard cabinets, drivers and the UPGRADED crossovers in another auction.

    I might be wrong, but that's my opinion of how you could get the most money.

    Hoosier is right on point with this one. If you're gonna sell, do what he says.

    Max is also right. Unless they are factory mods or mooded by a very reputable person/company, mods are a disincentive for many people, including me in most instances.

    I think you should sell them as Hoosier indicated just to see how the market responds to them. It'll give you an indication of whether or not there's a business opportunity in it for you. Forget about the amount of time you put in it. I'm sure you learned a lot in the process and if you did it again, you could do it much faster and probably more cost effective.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited February 2006
    madmax wrote:
    I don't like to buy "upgraded" stuff. Too many stupid people doing stupid things to take a chance. I would much rather have a non-modified one unless I have knowledge of the person who did the modifications.
    madmax

    Absolutely. I don't want anything that someone else has dicked around with, and I think most people feel the same way. Sid, I think the mods are going to hurt you more than help you...

    I think Hoosier's got the best idea.....
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited February 2006
    Sid, if you want to make some money, do what you are doing but do it in a different way. Do your own design, use hard to find woods and do it to perfection. People will pay out the **** for super quality workmanship and an idea they can support. It's all about marketing after that. Lets say you did a re-make of the 1C's, super dead design, custom woods and an advertisement that kills. I would be interested. It all has to be done to perfection though. Absolute perfection that I want but can't get anywhere else.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited February 2006
    Sid, I don't want you to take this wrong, what max sys is right. And to be honest with you, you aren't quite there yet.

    What you have is a good idea, but you need to have better skills (not to mention tools) to pull it off. 6 coats of bedliner ain't going to make it. Neither is cedar.

    Now if you could do a piano gloss black laquer with cocobola panels you could comb your hair in, you'd have something. Or Brazillian heart rosewood...

    You have the enthusiasm and the right idea, but you need to sharpen the skills some first.
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2006
    There may be a market for speaker cabinet restoration -- i.e., getting speakers back to the way it looked when it came out of the factory, with some minor modifications like better bracing, improved spikes, different grille color, etc. What about repairing chipped veneer?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited February 2006
    And to sharpen the skills I say you keep your build on. :)

    Actually, subs would be a good place to start.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited February 2006
    Yeah, subs are a good place to start... also check out the single driver forums. I have yet to design a crossover that I've felt is truely up to par with something turned out by a speaker company, but there are hundreds of single driver projects out there that you can try. Just get some MDF and start **** around. Try out Fostex and Jordan drivers.

    Furthermore, if you do a search on Audiogon, you can find people who actually sell things they've built with these drivers.

    Also, if you're going to go about this seriously, build & sell five of the same model and try to get sixmoons "reality check" column to review it, which is a great way to get your name out.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Thanks for all the opinions. Im kind of glad they are what they are - as I really dont want to get rid of them, but sometimes money speaks louder...if its there...

    Me personally, I would like to do order = build. Kind of like what me and Early did, someone "orders" a speaker, I give them a time frame - it is done within that frame and Im paid by the hour (alot more than I charged Brad)... They pay for materials, etc...

    That is something I would like to do, but Im unsure of how to go about getting something like that started. And I wouldnt be able to advertise to do that UNTIL I got my own table saw, there just isnt a way I could do that without my own that people cant eff with... It would also allow me to work more than 1.5 hours a day... the reason it takes so long for me to do thing is because I have to stop and take stuff to school...

    I would also need a planer and a radial arm saw I suppose...bleh

    That is something I plan to buy at the end of this year, a $500 or so Table saw... A drill press is also on the list, I dont need much else than that...

    Thanks for the opinions, advice, etc

    And it wouldnt be just speakers, anything really - stands, etc...anything...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2006
    Me personally, I would like to do order = build... That is something I would like to do, but Im unsure of how to go about getting something like that started.

    No, you're not unsure. You've already begun. What better place than to start right here on this forum? We order it, you build it.

    I would encourage you to sell something -- sell your DT's, sell your amp, sell something to finance your wood working equipment. That way you can get started a lot faster, gain more experience, generate additional income, etc. Then you can have fun building a personal set of DIY speakers that are cost effective and will blow away any speaker you've ever owned.

    For the first few made-to-order projects, you should expect to break even, but the benefit will be word-of-mouth endorsements not only on this forum, but on other audio forums where Polkies roam.

    Another option is to build bookshelf speakers based on some popular kits like the EFE and a few listed on the PE forum. That way, you already know they sound good, you don't have to fool around with crossover design, and they shouldn't be too difficult to sell if the price is right.

    Another option is to start with a single product such as speaker stands or audio racks. Come up with 2 or 3 simple designs and grow from there.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Im not in the "rush offense" just yet as far as funds go. The only way Id sell anything currently in my setup is if I wanted to upgrade/replace it.I worked far to long and hard to get the setup where it is now. Only reason I would sell the DTs if I could sell them for the price at the top of this thread. However, killer DIY speakers ARE in my future - that will be what replaces them, these enclosures I made here are the stepping stones, thats for sure...

    Anyways - back on the topic at hand... I plan to spend 500-600 dollars on me a year, the rest will be going to insurance and gas, so at the end of every year, 500-600 will go to me (not counting christmas and birthday) - So eventually, I will get the table saw, drill press, radial arm saw, planer - it may just take a year or two...

    But that would also mean I wont be buying any audio stuff for a few years...

    The biggest problem I have with making things that arnt already ordered and materials paid for - it comes out of my pocket at first, true that it will come back later - but how much later.

    Once I get the tools and a bit more skills, this will be a much more easier process.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited February 2006
    That is something I plan to buy at the end of this year, a $500 or so Table saw... A drill press is also on the list, I dont need much else than that...
    Do yourself a favor and go to Home Depot and get the Ryboi BTS-3100 table saw. It's on clearence right now for $250. It is an absolute steal at that price (it's a steal at full price). You'll have a very hard time finding a saw with a better fence at 2 to 3 times the price. It is a fantastic saw for the money. I have one and I love it.

    http://www.bt3central.com/
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Ive always marked Ryobi down as a "cheap" brand (as in quality)... how is that saw as far as reliability, etc...

    From the pic, it looks very nice (as far as the fence)...

    If I went in the store, would that fence look any different? (IE: Do you have to set it up that way or does it come that way?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited February 2006
    Ive always marked Ryobi down as a "cheap" brand (as in quality)... how is that saw as far as reliability, etc...

    From the pic, it looks very nice (as far as the fence)...

    If I went in the store, would that fence look any different? (IE: Do you have to set it up that way or does it come that way?
    I've always felt the same way about Ryobi but this saw has a cult following, and likely wouldn't if it didn't live up to expectations. It is highly recommened for a "beginner" saw at all the DIY forums I frequent. You'd likely have to spend $1000 or more to considerably better it.

    The link I posted above will give you a ton of info on the saw. I don't know about reliability, I'm sure if there are problems you can find the parts to fix it. Just about any table saw is going to need some tune-ups.

    The stock fence looks like the pic below, it is very nice, locks down very square and tight. You should at least go check it out at the store. Even the display unit I looked at the fence locked down tight and square.

    165672_4.jpg

    EDIT: I forgot to comment on it's versatility. The rails slide so you can get a 30+ inch rip capacity. One of the adjustable table pieces has a hole in it to mount a router to so that you can use the table as a router table. It also has a sliding miter table, which you'd pay big bucks for on most saws.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Is it being discontinued....? And with what? (I noticed you said clearance)... how much does it cost new?

    Im not really in a position to buy a table saw right now...so that is why I am asking - it looks like one I would like to venture into though, that is for sure.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,193
    edited February 2006
    Thanks for all the opinions. Im kind of glad they are what they are - as I really dont want to get rid of them, but sometimes money speaks louder...if its there...

    Me personally, I would like to do order = build. Kind of like what me and Early did, someone "orders" a speaker, I give them a time frame - it is done within that frame and Im paid by the hour (alot more than I charged Brad)... They pay for materials, etc...

    That is something I would like to do, but Im unsure of how to go about getting something like that started. And I wouldnt be able to advertise to do that UNTIL I got my own table saw, there just isnt a way I could do that without my own that people cant eff with... It would also allow me to work more than 1.5 hours a day... the reason it takes so long for me to do thing is because I have to stop and take stuff to school...

    I would also need a planer and a radial arm saw I suppose...bleh

    That is something I plan to buy at the end of this year, a $500 or so Table saw... A drill press is also on the list, I dont need much else than that...

    Thanks for the opinions, advice, etc

    And it wouldnt be just speakers, anything really - stands, etc...anything...


    Sid, this is exactly how people get started. You may end up finding this is your calling and not only be very happy, but make a very good living at it as well. The best advice I can give is just keep pushing forward, learn, sacrafice and never give up if this you something you want to do.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited February 2006
    I would also need a planer and a radial arm saw I suppose...bleh

    That is something I plan to buy at the end of this year, a $500 or so Table saw... A drill press is also on the list, I dont need much else than that...


    And it wouldnt be just speakers, anything really - stands, etc...anything...

    You don't need a radial. You can build a jig for the tablesaw to do it's job. Think about clamps, maybe a small oiless compressor and HVLP spray gun.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    I am slowly collecting clamps, Im up to six as of right now, I hope to have 10 or more before long...

    I was under the impression you cant cross cut on a table saw (solid wood), or is that just with the fence?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited February 2006
    That's just w/ a fence. Actually you can use the fence as a stop, but you need to put a block on it so the stock is not touching while it is cut.

    If you build a jig, you can control it better and be more accurate, no drifting out of square...
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Is there a special type of blade for cross-cutting...or would taping the grain just work? I crosscutted plywood beyond, and even when I taped it, the grain still splitted ocassionally...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited February 2006
    Smaller teeth and zero clearance inserts, if it's that bad. Or be sure to face up the piece, any chipout will be on the back...

    Edit: BTW- it's crosscut, not crosscutted. Add a thesarus of common woodworking terms to the list ;)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    "I crosscut plywood before"

    "I crosscutted plywood before"

    B sounds better to me.. ;) I crosscut plywood sounds like Im making a statement or Im telling what my job is...... I crosscutted plywood sounds like I did it... lol

    What are Zero clearance inserts?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited February 2006
    Phenolic resin inserts you put in the table. Then you raise the blade while the saw is running, and it cuts through. No gap around the blade.

    Stick to the wood, son. You ain't gonna be no English professor...
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2006
    Ah...

    nope, I aint none of dat der english teach person I tell ya...

    But seriously, how is it crosscut when its a past-tense use? (scratches head)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.