12" Dayton reference HF subwoofer
ohskigod
Posts: 6,502
I picked this driver up about a week and a half ago. I bought it to replace a 12"dvc to which a VC started rattling. I had it in a polk 505 box stuffed with polyfill (not blocking the port). added a 250 watt plate amp from parts express and cut the box to make it fit. It was my first half @ss attempt at DIY sub making.
Anyway, I pulled it out just to screw with it in the 2 channel. for a half assed attempt, it was a very good performing sub in my home theater I eventually replaced it with the 12"shiva with the 142.5L cabinet I built myself.
So I bought the Dayton Reference sub, with the goal of building a sub solely for 2 channel music. For kicks, I put it in the 505 box mentioned above. I put even more polyfill in it, just because, I really dont know why. I put it with my 2 channel rig and low and behold, it sounded pretty good. I wanted to leave it there to break in while I plan what cabinet I am building (I planned a 3.2-3.3 cu ft sealed enclosure at the moment)
A funny thing is happening as the driver breaks in, it sounds fantastic in the enclosure it is allready in. It blends seemlesly with my Carver Platinums, which of course, is th last speaker you would expect to need a sub. My bassment severely challenges any speaker in the bass dept, and the Carver's believe it or not, are no exception.
If I didnt tell anyone I had a sub running, no one would have a friggin clue. I'm gonna roll with this a while, but it might change when I get the Anthem pre 2l I bought from Doro.
the sub. plus the amperex bugle boys I put in the Dodd ELP has me really happy at the moment. Just figured I'd share
anyone looking for a sub driver primarily for music should keep this thing on the short list
Anyway, I pulled it out just to screw with it in the 2 channel. for a half assed attempt, it was a very good performing sub in my home theater I eventually replaced it with the 12"shiva with the 142.5L cabinet I built myself.
So I bought the Dayton Reference sub, with the goal of building a sub solely for 2 channel music. For kicks, I put it in the 505 box mentioned above. I put even more polyfill in it, just because, I really dont know why. I put it with my 2 channel rig and low and behold, it sounded pretty good. I wanted to leave it there to break in while I plan what cabinet I am building (I planned a 3.2-3.3 cu ft sealed enclosure at the moment)
A funny thing is happening as the driver breaks in, it sounds fantastic in the enclosure it is allready in. It blends seemlesly with my Carver Platinums, which of course, is th last speaker you would expect to need a sub. My bassment severely challenges any speaker in the bass dept, and the Carver's believe it or not, are no exception.
If I didnt tell anyone I had a sub running, no one would have a friggin clue. I'm gonna roll with this a while, but it might change when I get the Anthem pre 2l I bought from Doro.
the sub. plus the amperex bugle boys I put in the Dodd ELP has me really happy at the moment. Just figured I'd share
anyone looking for a sub driver primarily for music should keep this thing on the short list
Living Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
Post edited by ohskigod on
Comments
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of course, I should mention that I dont have it working too hard, just a little boot in the keester 40Hz and lower on the built in crossover.Living Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
That's wonderful. I was curious about Dayton's HF drivers. Glad to hear it's working out for you.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
I own four of the Dayton RS315 HiFi drivers, which are going into the dipole speakers I'm building. Many enthusiasts have measured the new RS subs and they are the lowest distortion sub you can buy for the money. For $139 they are an absolute steal.
http://www.mfk-projects.com/rs_12_hi-fi.htm -
I'd love to hear those bad boys when there doneLiving Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
All Club Polkies are welcome to come hear them when they're done, which should be in about 2 months, due to the weather. Just shoot me a PM if you'll be in the area.