Killer speakers a Polk owner built

Mazeroth

This guy built the Dr. Ks, which were designed by my buddy Darren Kuzma, who is the speaker manager at Parts Express. He also built custom subs under them to augment the bass.

Trey, are you there? I think this is your calling

http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=262497

VR3

Those are VERY well built. Nice, very nice.

Early B.

Those are the baddest damn DIY speakers I've ever seen!!! Very cool powered bass design. I wanna build a pair myself!!! I asked the dude if he could post the plans for them so anyone could have access to them. If not, I asked him to send me a copy.

I'd like to know how low the bass goes, though.

Sid, can you design a cabinet to integrate both the MTM and the bass module so it will appear as a single unit? Maybe use a 10" sub instead of a 12" to make it a bit smaller.

VR3

Yes... lol

Would most likely have a very thick panel between the MTM and sub though, just because thats the way Id do it.

hoosier21

how do you know he's a Polk owner?

hoosier21

Early B. wrote:

Sid, can you design a cabinet to integrate both the MTM and the bass module so it will appear as a single unit? Maybe use a 10" sub instead of a 12" to make it a bit smaller.

that's called a powered tower, no?

VR3

hoosier21 wrote:

how do you know he's a Polk owner?

His center!

hoosier21

I see now

DAGLJAM6

I thought engineers caught all the little details! :rolleyes:

george daniel

hoosier runs a train?

hoosier21

no engineer here, I just mop the floors there

TroyD

He probably couldn't see it from all the fried chicken grease he's smeared on the monitor.

BDT

Dennis Gardner

I like the subs, angled stance ala the Allison 9s that I have always wanted since the '80s. Cool looking setup.

Early B.

Check link again. Schematics have been posted.

Pablo

Wow, those are sharp looking. (may inspire me to put rip an old pair of speakers apart on put them in new cabinets).

steveinaz

Those are gorgeous, wish I had the experience and "hands" to build something like that.

Early B.

For a brief moment, I thought about building these speakers to replace my HT speakers. But when I priced out the parts for just the MTM sections, the cost came to approx. $600. Knowing me the way I do, I'd probably go ahead and upgrade some of the crossover components for another, say $120. Then the bass modules would cost about $300 each. So the total price would be in the neighborhood of $1,300 with no guarantee that they'll look and sound better than what I already have. Since I only paid about $700 for my speakers (and they sound great!), no need to gamble on a set of DIYers that cost twice as much. In my case, this is one of those instances where it doesn't make sense to DIY. Still a very neat project, though.

Mazeroth

The parts for the MTMs are only $387. Follow this link and click the add to basket button at the bottom. http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/dr-k-mtm/list.html It will show a total of $587, but you need to deduct $200 because you won't need the two 1.0 cubic feet enclosures. Also, the crossover components that are included in the $387 will be more than good. We did a capacitor test at the 2004 Parts Express DiY speaker meet. We used non-polarized electrolytic caps, polypropylene caps, high end ones like Audiocap Thetas, Kimber, etc... We did tests between all of them, had someone running the cap switch, and had people listen to speakers with crappy caps, mid-range, and high end. It was almost a three way tie. Most people marked that they couldn't tell the difference.

Gotta get back to work...

VR3

Eh, I call BS...

I could take your setup and put it in another room you never heard it in before and I bet your couldnt even say it was your setup if it was behind a sonically transparent screen...

Get what I mean?

These ABC tests are so full of crap its not even funny.

You upgrade your crossovers on a setup you listen to EVERY single day... in the same exact room with the same exact components - if you cant hear a difference, even a small one - something may be wrong...

Early B.

Mazeroth wrote:

The parts for the MTMs are only $387. Follow this link and click the add to basket button at the bottom. http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/dr-k-mtm/list.html It will show a total of $587, but you need to deduct $200 because you won't need the two 1.0 cubic feet enclosures. Also, the crossover components that are included in the $387 will be more than good. We did a capacitor test at the 2004 Parts Express DiY speaker meet. We used non-polarized electrolytic caps, polypropylene caps, high end ones like Audiocap Thetas, Kimber, etc... We did tests between all of them, had someone running the cap switch, and had people listen to speakers with crappy caps, mid-range, and high end. It was almost a three way tie. Most people marked that they couldn't tell the difference.

Well, I'd probably buy the enclosures so I could focus more of my time on building the bass enclosures. Better yet, it might be easier to buy a couple of 10" Titanic sub kits. Even if I build all of the enclosures myself, it is still cost prohibitive for me.

Now, in terms of the crossover mods, I upgraded the components on my Norhs and there was a significant improvement after a few hours of break-in. Higher quality parts equals better sound. Not sure why some people don't understand that concept.

I agree with Sid -- I don't give a damn about someone's listening test. The only ears that matter are my own.

VR3

Early...

I could build you two MTM enclosures with bracing out the izzo for no more than 100-150 shipped (depending on what you wanted to use) - built alot better than PE's ever would be.

Assuming you only want them in MDF...

I could easilly pull out some made of MDF with birch plywood bracing interlaced like my DTs...

It would be difficult to do plywood enclosures due to the complications Im having with the school tools with those kind of cuts (45 degrees)...

Mazeroth

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote:

Eh, I call BS...

I could take your setup and put it in another room you never heard it in before and I bet your couldnt even say it was your setup if it was behind a sonically transparent screen...

Get what I mean?

These ABC tests are so full of crap its not even funny.

You upgrade your crossovers on a setup you listen to EVERY single day... in the same exact room with the same exact components - if you cant hear a difference, even a small one - something may be wrong...

LoL! You're talking to probably the only guy on these forums that runs a separate EQ JUST FOR ROOM CORRECTION! I use TrueRTA on my computer, which I take my measurements with a Behringer ECM8000 connected to an M-Audio Mobile Pre, which is a killer professional external soundcard/pre. I run the program, create my room curve, then compensate for that curve with my Behringer DEQ2496. The DEQ2496 allows me to save 60 different curves, so if I'm sitting in the corner of the room at my desk doing work it's EQed for that spot. I even have the EQ set up for listening to music while I cook in the kitchen, which is connected to my main room!

The point you fail to see is this: The test was set up on a very high end DiY bookshelf speaker (we're talking over $1000 in parts alone for these 2-ways). They had crossovers made for the speakers and each crossover had a different type/brand of cap. Each crossover was set up on an A/B switch so they could have A running, then go to B and you decide which one sounded better. Probably 90% of the attendants there couldn't hear a difference between any of the capacitors. The electrolytic caps cost pennies on the dollar to what the high end caps run.

I'm not knocking you guys, but I'm honestly trying to save you some money. Crossover topology, NOT crossover part quality, is what's important. Drivers are next, followed by the box and then box dampening (my opinion). In an overall order I'd put the order of importance: Crossover topology, driver selection, room, box, box dampening, crossover parts.

Anywho, do what you like. I honestly am just trying to help.

Early B.

Maz --

Sid and I are basing our statements on personal experience. If you wanna know whether or not crossover mods make a difference, upgrade the crossover components in your speakers, let them break in, then post your findings here.

Mazeroth

The only way to truly know if there is a benefit is to upgrade one of your speakers, let it break in or whatever you want to do to it, then do an A/B test, in your own home, and see if you can tell a difference. Mark which one has the new crossover and have a friend put them in place. Blindfold yourself and do an A/B and see which one you prefer. Most people can't tell the difference. Some like the newer one better. Some prefer the older one. Upgrades don't always result in better sound.

Early B.

Mazeroth wrote:

The only way to truly know if there is a benefit is to upgrade one of your speakers, let it break in or whatever you want to do to it, then do an A/B test, in your own home, and see if you can tell a difference.

I'm sure you've made plenty of noticable upgrades on your system without resorting to A/B tests to prove to yourself that the SQ improved.

This is audio, Maz -- if it sounds better, it is better. It ain't an exact science.