help with a box design and advice

low95ryda
low95ryda Posts: 6
edited February 2006 in Car Subwoofer Talk
can anyone help my design a box for a 1995 fullsize chevy reg. cab pickup? i have been working on this truck for 2 years and now i'm doing the interior in my daily driver i have 4 MM2124 and i'm running a Directed 2400 i love it so now its going in the truck. BUT i not sure if i want to go with 2 or 4 2124 s ,the good thing is i'm short so i dont need to have the seat all the way back. can anyone help me out? thanx Nick
Post edited by low95ryda on
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited January 2006
    the limiting factor will be exactly how much space you're willing to give up... with four subs, you're probably going to have to build a box that will cover a ton of space... i'm not familiar with that vehicle, so i'll let the truck people give you more advice, but 4 12s in a truck sounds like a lot to me...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited January 2006
    Ive driven mostly trucks in my life and can tell ya, 4 subs will be a bit too much unless bass is all you want to listen to.

    If SQ is your primary concern, then a single 12 would be plenty in a regular cab truck.

    If youre wanting to be loud then go with 2.

    4 would just overpower everything and would sound kinda bad in my opinion.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
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  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited January 2006
    dude, don't you know that car audio is all about the BASS!!!!!!
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited January 2006
    Nah, car audio is all about how cool it can make your car look! Sound performance is secondary. :rolleyes:
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
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  • low95ryda
    low95ryda Posts: 6
    edited January 2006
    well i'm trying to have a bad **** ride and sound, so i've decided to go with 4 2124. so now the ? is seeld or ported? thanx
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited January 2006
    Sealed. Polk subs are designed to work best in a sealed box. Plus theyre the easiest to build and sound better.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited January 2006
    if you're going for volume, ported would be an okay option, just be careful with your measurements and so on...

    since the polks like sealed boxes, they'll be happy in 4th order bandpass, too, which are very large and very loud enclosures that don't sound very good...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • low95ryda
    low95ryda Posts: 6
    edited January 2006
    thanx guys, went and got the wood today going to start building it this weekend. i'll try getting some pics too. later
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  • low95ryda
    low95ryda Posts: 6
    edited February 2006
    well i got the box built last weekend i only went with 3 12's in a seeled box sounds awsome mon i'm going to have the db tested see how loud it is, but i only have 1 problem and it stsred on fri. when i play it to long my amp and cd player go on and off and the amp goes in protect anyone got some advice? i'm betting the battery is about shot but i wanna get a yellow top anyway. My buddie has my dig. camera i'll get some pics it looks sweet.
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited February 2006
    yep, pics would be cool
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • Stroker
    Stroker Posts: 30
    edited February 2006
    My basic rule to follow is that your charging system should be setup to carry the supply of your equipment . I run a 140 amp altenator to run the ignition lights and truck itself. I have a 200 amp leece neville altenator to run my stereo system. From what I have been taught you should'nt draw more then 80% of your altenator's capacity. Your battery is storage and also used as a filter device in a sence. I have seen comp vehicle's run a altenator and a few 1 farad cap to run there audio system. My system consist's of 2 c300.2 and a c500.1 I have my voltage set at 15.2 and at full load the voltage maintains with no drop. Power cable is a big concern also due to line loss and resistance. I run welding cable very fine stranded 0/2 to each amp. For your truck powermaster makes 200 amp altenators worth the up grade . The better and stabil the voltage and current supply the better your equipment will perform.
    88 Wrangler 383 stroker 525hp 10 inch's of lift 38.5's
    Premier 860mp 140 & 200 amp altenator
    MMC6500 driven vy c300.2
    MMC690 driven by c300.2
    2-MM2104's driven by c500.1
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  • Stroker
    Stroker Posts: 30
    edited February 2006
    Also when amplifier's strugle for power it creates excess heat. I had a directed amp before it did'nt like a 2 ohm load either. Some people like the amp but after alot of research and tech support I choose polk being they stand behind there product and all of my speakers are polk figured they test there product with there product. Ebay has awesome deals on polk amp's and subs that is where i got mine. If you do upgrade the altenator make sure you run a heavy gauge wire from the charging post to the battery that is another overlooked area .
    88 Wrangler 383 stroker 525hp 10 inch's of lift 38.5's
    Premier 860mp 140 & 200 amp altenator
    MMC6500 driven vy c300.2
    MMC690 driven by c300.2
    2-MM2104's driven by c500.1
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  • low95ryda
    low95ryda Posts: 6
    edited February 2006
    here is a pic
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited February 2006
    the cones seem dusty... the yellow accents are an interesting touch, though...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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