SRS Foot Brace/Lift

decato
decato Posts: 188
edited January 2006 in Vintage Speakers
Has anyone ever seen these before? They look like lifts to screw feet into, which, in turn, get screwed into the bottom of the cabinet. I am going to attempt to attach these to the bases of my 2.3TLs to raise them up slightly higher. If it rains a lot, water sometimes seeps up through the cement basement floor, and it's not worth taking a risk.

So, I would like to know if anyone received this device with their SRSs, and if so, was it useful?
Post edited by decato on
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Comments

  • trubluluc
    trubluluc Posts: 2,067
    edited January 2006
    Yes, I have a set of these.
    I think it was an option one could use in conjunction or instead of the wall mount bass brace.
    It basicly fixes the speaker so as to minimize speaker racking.

    Sounds like you need to "Tooltime" your sump pump.
    As Tim the toolman Taylor would do.
    a 440 Hemi should do the trick. :)

    -Luc
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited January 2006
    Well, there they are again.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • decato
    decato Posts: 188
    edited January 2006
    OK, thanks.

    It looks like one of them is damaged. The area surrounding the screw inserts is crushed. I will somehow have to reshape it.
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 188
    edited January 2006
    trubluluc wrote:
    Yes, I have a set of these.

    Luc (or anyone else), if you are not using your set, would you be willing to sell it? I have tried to reshape the dented bar, but the screw holes are really messed up.

    Thanks,
    Brian
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited January 2006
    Can you tap out the threads?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • decato
    decato Posts: 188
    edited January 2006
    This is what it looks like. I think it needs to be drilled out and then some nut needs to be welded back in. I don't have the right tools to do this. I'm also not really sure how it got damaged either.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited January 2006
    Do the holes go all the way though to the other side or am I looking at two different areas of damage?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • decato
    decato Posts: 188
    edited January 2006
    F1nut wrote:
    Do the holes go all the way though to the other side or am I looking at two different areas of damage?

    The holes are only on one side. Both ends of the bar have damaged holes.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited January 2006
    PM sent
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • decato
    decato Posts: 188
    edited January 2006
    F1nut wrote:
    PM sent
    PM sent back.
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  • trubluluc
    trubluluc Posts: 2,067
    edited January 2006
    Brian-

    I'd prefer to hold onto my set of braces.
    But I think you could make yours work.

    It looks like you could remove the plastic end caps on the end of the bars.
    If the hole threads are truly unsalvageable ie not tappable,
    drill out the hole to the next smallest size that woulld permit the threaded shaft of the carpet spike or glide spike, which ever you are using, to pass through the hole.
    With the end cap removed, you can put a nut on the inside of the bar using a needle nose vice grips. Put another nut on the threaded shaft before inserting into the bar.
    Thread the sharft into the nut inside the bar, then tighten the nut outside of the bar to hold it in place, once you've got the right height adjustment.

    -Luc
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  • tugboat
    tugboat Posts: 393
    edited January 2006
    Well those sure look familiar. They're attached to the bottom of my 1.2TLs. Never really could figure out their exact function, but since I live in earthquake central, I figured they'd at least give them better stability.

    Was there to pick them up from the store (way back when) and upon getting them to their home and unpacking them, those were already attached. I always figured they came from the factory that way, but seems not to be the case. Store must have tossed them in for free.

    Unless there's enough material/depth to run a tap through, then cutting and welding in a bung is the only other option.
    Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition

    Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way
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  • twochannel
    twochannel Posts: 171
    edited January 2006
    You can check with your local auto body repair or metal fabrication shops to see if they have a thread-cert tool. They will drill out the damaged threads and insert a collar with new threads, by using a tool that resembles a large rivet gun. The inserts are about a $1.00 each and it should not take them long repair. I have seen those braces when I installed at a local audio store.They were dealer only items that they displayed the speakers on, making it easier to move them around without damaging the bottoms. They were also great on very uneven floors! I believe you could also get them thru Polk parts along with the bass wall braces.
    Anybody have these FOR SALE?
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  • trubluluc
    trubluluc Posts: 2,067
    edited January 2006
    These braces are made from very thin metal, with no reinforcing insert or nut inside.
    It would NOT be a good idea to use them to move the speakers around.
    I'm sure that's how the set in question got damaged in the first place.
    The slider feet that come with the big SDA's work just fine for moving these big speakers around,
    and are also adjustable to accomodate unlevel flooring.

    -Luc

    twochannel wrote:
    They were dealer only items that they displayed the speakers on, making it easier to move them around without damaging the bottoms. They were also great on very uneven floors! I believe you could also get them thru Polk parts along with the bass wall braces.
    Anybody have these FOR SALE?
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  • tugboat
    tugboat Posts: 393
    edited January 2006
    I find that the added lift allows me to grasp the underside and move them forward. Mine are tightly set between my TV and equipment racks (actually more like book cases, but I think you get it). If I have to get behind the racks or TV, I have to either slide a speaker out or lay it face down. I find they aren't happy when I lay the speaker down. Pulls the connections to the bottom. Oh well.
    Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition

    Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way
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