Polk MM2154DVC Sub Enclosure
GregD
Posts: 2
Hi Guys,
I have been having some trouble finding the right Sub box for the MM2154DVC. Polk recommend 42.5l (1.5cu ft) but all i could find was a 2cu ft sealed. I installed it and noticed it was all boomy so i figured the box is a little too big for the Sub. So i have decided to make a box using BassBox Pro 6 in a wedge shape and see what happens.
Would a larger then recommended enclosure cause the Sub to sound boomy?
I have an Eclipse CD5441, JL Audio 500/1 Monoblock on the MM2154DVC running at 2ohms and cross'd over at 80hz (24db). The Sub faces to the rear of my car (in boot) as it sounded **** facing the rear seat (Sedan).
Can anyone offer some asistance?
Click here for my box plans
I have been having some trouble finding the right Sub box for the MM2154DVC. Polk recommend 42.5l (1.5cu ft) but all i could find was a 2cu ft sealed. I installed it and noticed it was all boomy so i figured the box is a little too big for the Sub. So i have decided to make a box using BassBox Pro 6 in a wedge shape and see what happens.
Would a larger then recommended enclosure cause the Sub to sound boomy?
I have an Eclipse CD5441, JL Audio 500/1 Monoblock on the MM2154DVC running at 2ohms and cross'd over at 80hz (24db). The Sub faces to the rear of my car (in boot) as it sounded **** facing the rear seat (Sedan).
Can anyone offer some asistance?
Click here for my box plans
Post edited by GregD on
Comments
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a box 33% larger than spec certainly could mess with your frequency response, yep.... you're also talking about a 15 inch sub, which aren't exactly known for their amazingly tight sound... a good quality box (such as the one you'll be making out of at least 3/4" MDF) will also be better than a premade box such as the one i assume you bought, and that can make a difference...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
Thanks neomagus00 .. I have had some much troubles (and spent a fortune) to get my car audio to sound good but i just keep hitting dead ends all the time.
I'll get the box installed and will have a little play. As for setup and to reduce boom i might try crossing the sub over at 60hz (24db slope) as my front splits are crossed over at 70hz (12db) Cadence US-6K. I have the rears crossed over at 200hz (24db) JBL GTO-936 to stop these from interfering with the sub (and to stop some pounding). -
GregD wrote:... i just keep hitting dead ends all the time.
yah, just keep playing with settings and such - the radioshack digital spl meter is quite accurate enough to find glaring errors in your frequency response, so you may wish to give that a shot... and since your current box is too big, you can try putting some scrap wood in there to reduce the volume, and see how that sounds (make sure it's securely attached inside the box before you drive off, though!)... just add some, take a listen, add more, listen more... you'll find a spot that works best, then you can go ahead and tune from there...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
neomagus00 wrote:and since your current box is too big, you can try putting some scrap wood in there to reduce the volume, and see how that sounds
I have actually done this before :eek: .
Worked well tooAlpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
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