Bi-amping Monitor 70s?

BjornB17
BjornB17 Posts: 752
edited January 2006 in Speakers
I recently got some Monitor 70s and love them. They are currently paired with a Harman Kardon AVR130 (soon to be replaced by AVR230 which has preouts).

how exactly does bi-amping work with the monitor 70s? Im thinking about having all 5 speakers (fronts, center, and surrounds) powered by the AVR230, but I am thinking about getting two Outlaw monoblocks rated at 200 watts each. I will use one for each Monitor 70. Can i have the AVR230 power the mids and highs and have the Outlaw power the two woofers? What kind of benefits can i expect?

Thanks!
KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
Post edited by BjornB17 on

Comments

  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited January 2006
    You could, but why? Just make some jumpers, or use a bi-wire cable, and run the Outlaws only on the 70's.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    RuSsMaN wrote:
    You could, but why? Just make some jumpers, or use a bi-wire cable, and run the Outlaws only on the 70's.

    There wouldnt be any benefit to having the two amps making each other's lives easier? I already have jumpers across them (the ones that came with the speakers) so thats not really an issue. I just thought there might be some benefit to my idea (but of course I am open to suggestions :) ) Would using only the outlaws for the 70s cause any kind of difference in warmth/brightness or other sound characteristics compared to the other speakers?
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited January 2006
    I just can't bring myself to answer the same question twice.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    RuSsMaN wrote:
    I just can't bring myself to answer the same question twice.

    :rolleyes:
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited January 2006
    the Outlaw is a very good amp and should outperform your avr on its own easily (dont take that the wrong way)

    Biamping is good if you have 2 amps of the same calibre so to speak. If you have that, then biamping can be a good thing (still have to trust your ears)

    in this case though, what Russ is saying (and I certainly agree) is that barring freak circumstance, you will get better performance running just the monobloc to each monitor 70
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    ohskigod wrote:
    the Outlaw is a very good amp and should outperform your avr on its own easily (dont take that the wrong way)

    Biamping is good if you have 2 amps of the same calibre so to speak. If you have that, then biamping can be a good thing (still have to trust your ears)

    in this case though, what Russ is saying (and I certainly agree) is that barring freak circumstance, you will get better performance running just the monobloc to each monitor 70

    Okay makes sense. Thanks :)

    What benefits can i see by using a powerful monoblock such as the 200W outlaw? More powerful bass, better highs? Or will the difference only be fairly marginal?

    Thanks again.
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • FicmanS
    FicmanS Posts: 134
    edited January 2006
    Would I benefit from Bi-Amp setup with my Denon AVR-3806 and 70's, I have to admit I have been reluctant to try it. Seems to be one of those on the fence things, some people think it's great other are not so sure?
    Rockin' In My House :D


    Pioneer 50 inch Plasma TV
    Denon AVR-3806
    Denon DVD-1930ci
    Polk Montor 70's
    Polk PSW-12
    Polk CS2
    Polk Monitor 40's

    Sirius Satellite Radio, Monster 3500MKII
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,586
    edited January 2006
    Basically, the better the amp, the more of the speaker's potential you will unleash. It's not magic, but you will get a tighter image and better presentation sonically. Bass may be improved and so can little nuances of your music.

    Instead of those Outlaws, I would suggest looking for a used Parasound on audiogon - I'm not a big fan of the Outlaw monos... plus they cost a bit once you get a bunch of them.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited January 2006
    You might want to look at this as an inexpensive experiment...

    http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage.asp?AuctionId=10580941

    oops, it's closed, may come back, was $239/150wpc/2/8ohm

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    I took the jumpers off of the Monitor 70s today and only plugged in the top binding posts. the top ones are only connected to the tweeter. The bottom binding post is connected to the 4 woofers. I just thought i'd point that out to anybody who happens to be interested :)
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited January 2006
    I wonder what the difference would be between plugging in the top posts vs the bottom posts, while leaving the jumpers attached....
    any at all?
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited January 2006
    I wonder what the difference would be between plugging in the top posts vs the bottom posts, while leaving the jumpers attached....
    any at all?


    not one iota. some have said however that replacing the jumpers with a higher quality cable between the binding posts makes a slight inprovement.

    overall, I like parasound, but for theater use I prefer Rotel, seems more neutral for me, which is what I prefer for theater/movie use.

    in terms of seperate amplification, you wont go wrong with Parasound, Rotel, Or Outlaw. All reputable manufacturers, which should show some improvement over the amplification of a typical reciever.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited January 2006
    BjornB17 wrote:
    I took the jumpers off of the Monitor 70s today and only plugged in the top binding posts. the top ones are only connected to the tweeter. The bottom binding post is connected to the 4 woofers. I just thought i'd point that out to anybody who happens to be interested :)

    there ya go......when you biamp, one amp goes to the tweeter, one goes to the woofers. Jumper connects them when your using one amp only. As I said in the last post. Many believe (as I do) that using a better speaker wire as jumpers, or biwireing from the same amp, is a better way to go then using the stock metal jumpers.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • drew spelts
    drew spelts Posts: 310
    edited January 2006
    This would most likely be due to the fact that the wire is a better conductor of electricity than the plate which is proably made of low conducting metal. If you want to test get both your fronts perfectly balanced so that you are happy with them, then replace one pair of metal plates with "good" speaker wire and see if you can tell the difference, you might need a friend to help do this in order to keep it a blind test so that one of you does not know which speaker was adjusted. Then just see if you can even tell if they are different at all.
    Harman Kardon AVR635
    RTi10's Up Front
    CSi5 Center
    RTi6's Rear Surround
    Furman RA-1210:rolleyes:
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    This would most likely be due to the fact that the wire is a better conductor of electricity than the plate which is proably made of low conducting metal. If you want to test get both your fronts perfectly balanced so that you are happy with them, then replace one pair of metal plates with "good" speaker wire and see if you can tell the difference, you might need a friend to help do this in order to keep it a blind test so that one of you does not know which speaker was adjusted. Then just see if you can even tell if they are different at all.

    i just did this right now after reading your post. Sound seems to be better.
    This could be due to:
    a) my mind playing tricks on me
    b) there was a loose connection before
    c) there actually is an improvement

    who knows :P
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited January 2006
    and who cares? better is better :)
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,086
    edited January 2006
    BjornB17 wrote:
    I took the jumpers off of the Monitor 70s today and only plugged in the top binding posts. the top ones are only connected to the tweeter. The bottom binding post is connected to the 4 woofers. I just thought i'd point that out to anybody who happens to be interested :)

    I'd been wondering how that worked for quite some time.

    Thanks for clearing that up for me.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,086
    edited January 2006
    Ok guys, just a little biwire/biamp 101 for you guys.

    The basic premise isn't so much to allow you to pump more wattage into your cottage. It's for the tweeter to be able, essentially, to draw power independently of the mids/woofers. This, among other things, avoids having the tweeter overdriven and damaged.

    That said, remember, quality over quantity. Your typical AVR isn't in the same league as a power amp, generally speaking. Now, if you switch from an AVR to a power amp, the increase in sound quality will, generally, be subtle. It really depends on your listening habits and so forth.

    Anyhow, just my .02......be an educated consumer. Before you plunk down your cash, be informed. Know what you are doing and why.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • BjornB17
    BjornB17 Posts: 752
    edited January 2006
    TroyD wrote:
    Ok guys, just a little biwire/biamp 101 for you guys.

    The basic premise isn't so much to allow you to pump more wattage into your cottage. It's for the tweeter to be able, essentially, to draw power independently of the mids/woofers. This, among other things, avoids having the tweeter overdriven and damaged.

    That said, remember, quality over quantity. Your typical AVR isn't in the same league as a power amp, generally speaking. Now, if you switch from an AVR to a power amp, the increase in sound quality will, generally, be subtle. It really depends on your listening habits and so forth.

    Anyhow, just my .02......be an educated consumer. Before you plunk down your cash, be informed. Know what you are doing and why.

    BDT

    Thanks for your advise.

    Im probably going to be getting a new HK receiver soon with automated EZset EQ along with preouts so i can have it calibrated easily, and the ability to upgrade to dual monoblocks by the summer time. I upgrade something about every 6 months :)
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780