surge protectors vs. power conditioners
just out of curiousity, how many people have surge protectors vs. power conditioners (example: monster brand). I am trying to justify in buying a power conditioner but I don't know if it will make any diff.
Post edited by marcpam on
Comments
-
surge protectors only protect you from serious surges. They can do nothing for an undervoltage condition. Power conditioners are supposed to even the signal out no matter what the power condition.
I, personally, use a surge protector, because I can't justify the price of a power conditioner with my current equipment. Power conditioners are supposed to give you a cleaner sound and picture in your equipment, because all the power cleaning is done before it hits the components, meaning that the power supply section of your equipment doesn't have to work to clean the power. Or something like that...Ludicrous gibs! -
I love my power conditioner but
I didn't notice much of a difference after I hooked it up.
It has only tripped once and I figure it saved me some money that time.
Also they look alot better in the rack than the surge protector behind the rack.Skynut
SOPA® Founder
The system Almost there
DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
Sunfire Theater Grand II
Sherbourn 7/2100
Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
Sur FX1000
SVS ultra plus 2
www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
Thanks for looking -
Power conditioners are a rip off. They have kinda the same thing in car audio, capacitors and theyre a rip off as well.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
I was a non-believer once! If you have dirty power coming into your A/V system, then if you own the place, fix the power problem with dedicated lines to your system using high quality wire, breakers, outlets, etc. You can then install a surge protection unit at the circuit breaker box, and/or a combination surge protection/power conditioner. If like me, you live in an apt. with a not-so-up-to-date AC service, and lots of other things running on the same circuit, then using a power conditioner/surge protector makes a very significant difference. I use a Tripp Lite LCR2400 and a Panamax 5100. Both are good brands, good quality, and fairly reasonably priced.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
nadams wrote:surge protectors only protect you from serious surges. They can do nothing for an undervoltage condition. Power conditioners are supposed to even the signal out no matter what the power condition.
I'm not trying to step on you're toes here, but. A good surge protector will protect you from MOST surges. Everything in you're house just about will cause a surge in the power lines. You're fridge kicking on, you're heat/Air, starting you're washer/dryer. All of these devices cause small surges that can over time damage equempent. As for a serious surge, well if you have a direct lightning hit you can probley forget about that surge protector stoping much, if you are lucky it will. Some power condiitioners will in fact protect you in an over/under voltage condition typically shut off at 90V or so under & 130V or so over. I 'm not sure what you are saying by "evening the signal no matter what the power condition". But they are or most rather are designed to help controll back feeds from digital sources, reduce EMI, & RFI interferance, & give you a referance grounding point for all componets hooked to it. Now if you're getting into something that has balanced power or voltage correcting that is a differnt story.
That said, don't buy into all the fancey bells & hoopla that Monster spewes. Don't get me wrong they make some nice stuff ( if fact I have there HTS5100) but you can get products from lots of other manufactures that do the same things just as good or better for alot less money.
When I got mine I couldent tell a differance at all in sound or picture quality other than it did kill a slight hiss I would get at high volume between quite passages. Other than that I have had it take a couple pretty good hits & still kept my stuff going. It took a 190V jolt one time that spiked twice, & a 160V jolt another time. But it will shut all outlets off at 130V to protect what ever is on the other end.
Another thing to consider is a whole house unit if you own you're home. This is the best line of defence against damage, plus you're protecting everything you own thats pluged in not just a few things. You're power Co normally offers these for about 100 bucks & can usualy pay for it in payments with you're normal monthly bill. -
Power conditioners. The power goes off all the time in my neighborhood. No need to pay a fortune. On my 2-channel system I paid $200, but it's mainly there for aesthetic purposes.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
My parents just bought me the Monster HTS3500 mk2 power conditioner.. I'm hoping it gets here soon!
I need some serious power cleaning at my apartment - so many little surges! My light bulbs blow on a weekly basis!Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
There are some reviews of power conditioners here:
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/masterindex_power_conditioners.html
I haven't tried any so I can't really make an objective opinion.
DKG999 made good suggestions about fixing the house wiring first or using dedicated lines for av equipment. It does help to get proper wiring in there.
Gear: Rotel RC 1082, Rotel RSP 1068 pre/pro, Rotel RMB1077 amp, Cayin CDT 15a CD player, S301 bluray.
Speakers: Tannoy DC sensys speakers, Paradigm Servo15 Sub, Velo Spl-1500r
Conditioner: Isotek -
I'll take a voltage stabilizer and filter anyday.
enough said.
1/4twin***WAREMTAE*** -
Joey_V wrote:My parents just bought me the Monster HTS3500 mk2 power conditioner.. I'm hoping it gets here soon!
I need some serious power cleaning at my apartment - so many little surges! My light bulbs blow on a weekly basis!
If that is the case, you probaly haven't heard the full potential of your AV system. Amps sound gets really distorted/degraded if the power is unstable. :eek:
I had the sennheiser HD650 too, and used the x-can as headphone amp. The sound had a lot of distortion when it was not plugged into the dedicated AV line.Gear: Rotel RC 1082, Rotel RSP 1068 pre/pro, Rotel RMB1077 amp, Cayin CDT 15a CD player, S301 bluray.
Speakers: Tannoy DC sensys speakers, Paradigm Servo15 Sub, Velo Spl-1500r
Conditioner: Isotek -
Ferres wrote:If that is the case, you probaly haven't heard the full potential of your AV system. Amps sound gets really distorted/degraded if the power is unstable. :eek:
I had the sennheiser HD650 too, and used the x-can as headphone amp. The sound had a lot of distortion when it was not plugged into the dedicated AV line.
COOL!
With the new Monster 3500... and my entirely new speaker setup (Vantage soon), I'm in for a treat for sure!Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Several months back I bought an AR product from best buy that looks like a surge protector and allegedly conditions the power as well for better sound. Honestly I cant sya I ever noticed a difference. I cant justify a 200-500 dollar expense for the monster conditioners because I havent heard them make a difference. Seems like that money could be spent better, but if you got the $$$ and you like it, more power to you. I do confess they look badass in your rack though, might get them just for asthetic purposes lol. Anyways seems like a good surge protector should be the minimum to hook up, they dont cost much so why not.-Stopher
Tempe, AZ
Setup:
Polk RTi8 Mains
Polk CSi5 Center
Polk FXi3's Surround
Cerwin Vega HTS10 Subwoofer
Yamaha HTR-5740 AVR
Upstairs R50/R15/CS1 5.1 setup w Pioneer AVR -
If the lines in your house are good and you don't get too much power fluctuations, a power conditioner would be of minimal value. This is really for people who can't get their wiring fixed/updated or have serious external power issues.
If you've got a stable line with good wiring, you may not get as much bang for the buck on power conditioners.Gear: Rotel RC 1082, Rotel RSP 1068 pre/pro, Rotel RMB1077 amp, Cayin CDT 15a CD player, S301 bluray.
Speakers: Tannoy DC sensys speakers, Paradigm Servo15 Sub, Velo Spl-1500r
Conditioner: Isotek -
dkg999 wrote:...if you own the place, fix the power problem with dedicated lines to your system using high quality wire, breakers, outlets, etc.
If like me, you live in an apt. with a not-so-up-to-date AC service, and lots of other things running on the same circuit...SONYTHEATER wrote:I'm not trying to step on you're toes here, but. A good surge protector will protect you from MOST surges. Everything in you're house just about will cause a surge in the power lines. You're fridge kicking on, you're heat/Air, starting you're washer/dryer.
I've yet to see a light bulb get brighter, i.e., from a surge or voltage spike with the A/C kicks on. Motor driven household appliances cause voltage dips.More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
StopherJJ1980 wrote:Several months back I bought an AR product from best buy that looks like a surge protector and allegedly conditions the power as well for better sound. Honestly I cant sya I ever noticed a difference. I cant justify a 200-500 dollar expense for the monster conditioners because I havent heard them make a difference. Seems like that money could be spent better, but if you got the $$$ and you like it, more power to you. I do confess they look badass in your rack though, might get them just for asthetic purposes lol. Anyways seems like a good surge protector should be the minimum to hook up, they dont cost much so why not.
-
I just unplug my 2CH rig....best surge arrestor ever.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
-
Tour2ma wrote:AC line noise is no more only generated in the home, than it is in your apartment.
Me neither, but...
I've yet to see a light bulb get brighter, i.e., from a surge or voltage spike with the A/C kicks on. Motor driven household appliances cause voltage dips.
I think you miss understood what I was saying. You are right that motors starting will cause a sag or dip in the line, so saying it is a surge could be the wrong way to explane it. But you do sometimes get an in rush of more current after theat device levels back off, hence the small surge. Not to menchion that some motors can feed back EMI as they start up or shut down.
I'm not the best at explaining this so my termenolgy may be off somewhat, but my father in law is a retired electrican, & I had a former boss that was a line man for 40 years that have explaned to me how alot of these things work.
Myself like others have said beleve in starting with good wireing first. If there is a problem fix it don't just band-aid it if you can of course.
One of the biggest things I found early on was to make sure if you're running to more than one outlet for you're gear make sure they are all well grounded & share a common leg if on seperate breakers in you're box. -
Ferres wrote:If the lines in your house are good and you don't get too much power fluctuations, a power conditioner would be of minimal value. This is really for people who can't get their wiring fixed/updated or have serious external power issues.
If you've got a stable line with good wiring, you may not get as much bang for the buck on power conditioners.
That's the key.
I lived in a house (a rental ) that required I have a power conditioner. Turn on the garbage disposal and the stereo would go into protect mode. Hook up the line-conditioner in the living room, and all is well. My new apartment's lights fluctuate all the time along with the line-conditioner indicating surges or dips in voltage via its led's. I feel much more comfortable using it.
Those who have power fluctuations benefit. Those who don't, might see less or no benefit. -
It only takes one surge to pay for itself if the conditions are right.
Mine is here and I would replace it if it broke.
I have never lost anything to a power surge short of an old refridgerator but I do not want to take a chance.Skynut
SOPA® Founder
The system Almost there
DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
Sunfire Theater Grand II
Sherbourn 7/2100
Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
Sur FX1000
SVS ultra plus 2
www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
Thanks for looking -
jrlouie wrote:Turn on the garbage disposal and the stereo would go into protect mode.SONYTHEATER wrote:I think you miss understood what I was saying. You are right that motors starting will cause a sag or dip in the line, so saying it is a surge could be the wrong way to explane it. But you do sometimes get an in rush of more current after theat device levels back off, hence the small surge. Not to menchion that some motors can feed back EMI as they start up or shut down.
Side Note: 90+% of any voltage dip issues I have experienced have been due to corrosion in the breakers. Fortunately they are self-cleaning, so if you shut all down and flip your breakers several times dips will go bye-bye.More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
When I turn on my amp... the lights go dimmer for like a split-second... what does this mean?
Also, I noticed that I replace my light bulbs alot... like about 6 bulbs a month at my apartment (Keep in mind that we have about 10 bulbs total). However, I noticed that I havent had to replace a bulb for the two lamps connected to my cheapo ($20) Belkin surge suppressor... what does this mean?Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R