Weight ristrictiosn, need of bass, and good handling...

integramodder
integramodder Posts: 5
edited May 2002 in Car Audio & Electronics
Well I recently bought myself an 01 GSR. I will soon by myself a set of the 6.5" POLK/MOMO components to replace the stock ones. I have not yet figure out what I am putting in the rear, some 6.5", maybe the alpine series (if you got any input, that'd be nice). However, I just ordered my nearly 300 dollar Mugen rear strut bar and know it will chop off a big section of the trunk toward the seats. I would like to get some good tight bass, thus I have choosen to run a 10" Alpine Type R sub (cant afford the price of the MOMO 10" since its twice the amount. Can someone suggest a box for me and amps for both, a 4 channel for the cabin and a amp to power the single 10.

Now, getting to the topic of the post...finally. I just ordered my nearly Mugen rear strut bar and know it will chop off a big section of the trunk toward the seats. It looks like this:
mugen_rearbar_1.jpg
mugen_rearbar_3.jpg
Now what type of box ca A, fit in that area, B, Ive heard of people making custom boxes with openings in them to allow the strut bar through (adds security because its now harder to steal the box).

Thanks
D
Post edited by integramodder on

Comments

  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited April 2002
    I'm not familiar with Alpine's coax's, but our EX365's would drop right in the rear stock locations. As far as the subs- Crutchfield sells the Alpine type R for 179.95, and our MM100 for 249.95. That's not too much more, and it's still cheaper than the strut bar:) . Your best bet as far as the box would be a small sealed enclosure (.65ft^3), since this will take up the least amount of space. For amplifiers the easiest route would be a four channel running the front stage and sub, and run the rears off the head unit. This would work best if the head unit has front, rear, and sub pre- outs. The front outputs would feed the front inputs of the amp running the components. The sub output would feed the rear inputs of the amp and the sub will run off those two channels bridged mono. This way you still have the ability to fade between the front and rear speakers, and have control over the sub level from the head unit.

    I would consider putting the sub in the rear corner of the hatch since it'll be tough working around the strut bar.
  • integramodder
    integramodder Posts: 5
    edited May 2002
    does it matter how the box gets its .65 ft^3? I mean if the sub is 5 inches high (or deep), then can I make the box 5.5 inches deep and the rest of the measurements to equal out .65? that way it would fit in the back...


    Also, I would never buy from crutchfield. I understand you work at polk so you promote their products. And crutchfield service is probably the best in the industry, but thats why their products cost about twice as much. I can get a new 10" Type R for $109 shipped.
  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited May 2002
    No, it doesn't matter what the size of the box is, but leave about an inch (at minimum) between the back of the woofer and the back of the box.

    I just looked up prices on Crutchfield because I'm not familiar with MSRP on Alpine products. I have no idea what their products (or ours) cost from unautorized online dealers.

    Good luck, let us know how it turns out.