ah hah! i am a genius! er... at least kinda almost swift maybe...
PoweredByDodge
Posts: 4,185
After putting in the new crossover and hence discovering that I could turn the volume "way more up" without seeing distortion due to speakers being driven beyond their range or speakers overlapping and getting muddy.... i overheated the poor "widdle" blue thunder...
alas - i have found the fix...
120 mm / 120 mm and it moves 80 cfm. that'll do 'er.
<img src="http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/35-119-032-02.JPG">
it's solid aluminum too... so it'll soak up more heat when i bolt it to the front (finned part) of the heatsink.
just to be matching, i got a little one for the other (smaller) blue thunder amp... it doesn't need it, but i want everything to look the same.
alas - i have found the fix...
120 mm / 120 mm and it moves 80 cfm. that'll do 'er.
<img src="http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/35-119-032-02.JPG">
it's solid aluminum too... so it'll soak up more heat when i bolt it to the front (finned part) of the heatsink.
just to be matching, i got a little one for the other (smaller) blue thunder amp... it doesn't need it, but i want everything to look the same.
The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
Post edited by PoweredByDodge on
Comments
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___________________________
Total cost of materials: Going up...
Time spent: Countless Hours...
Cranking the system, having it quiet outside the car, and sound that takes the rear-view off inside: PRICELESS
For some things in life, you pay others to do it... For a masterpeice, do it yourself. -
or this
Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
you guys are messed up - LOLOLOLThe Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
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youre putting it ON the heat sink? blowing away or towards it?
wouldnt you be better off putting it on the side of the amp perpendicular with it?
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
I second what cody said, blow air across them that way, it works better to blow on the hot spoon of soup than to try and suck the heat off of itPicking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
i see where he's coming from, though, sinking right into the fan structure... the question is, will that localised cold spot pull in enough heat from the rest of the case to even it all out?It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
the amp has ribs on the top of it, about 1/4 inch deep. by bolting the fan directly to the top of the amp (the fan is all aluminum so it just increases the heat sink area) and having it blow "away" from the amp or "up"... what it will do is suck cold air toward the case, through the fins, under ther fan body and then back up and out... fan is almost 5 inches by 5 inches.... amp is like 10 x 10, so it'll cover a good hunk of it.
it would be better to shoot air across the top of the amp, but 1) i dont have any way of mounting such a thing without ruining the cosmetics and changing ****... and 2) most of those small blowers are noisy as hell. i don't even know if this is going to be quiet enough. if it makes too much noise, then its plan b --- liquid cooling plates on either end of the heatsink. if i go that route, i'll jsut do all the amps .The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Little car w/12's is back! Where the hell you been boy?
*edit
Nevermind, I just saw your other thread.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
ive been looking at a liquid cooled system for a little while now but have yet to see someone implement it other than 1 car...but it was just some random pictures i saw, nothing detailed and no "how-to"
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
cake work dude... get the stuff that they use for computers - like hard drive coolers (look like panels, outa plastic, say 3/4 inch tall by 4 inches by about 8 inches) or other big ****, and screw it all down... then run the tubing to the same pump/radiator system you'd use for a comptuer but just get a 12 V adaptor for it...
wait - brainstorm....
wouldn't it be "way pimp" if you did the plastic coolers and ****, filled it with anti freeze, got a transmission cooler and put it in front of your truck, then bought a one way in pump that ran off 12 V power... oh man.... oooh man.... SOOOO COOOL!The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
if the fans are noisy, could you not use some diodes in the power line to slow em down a bit?Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
diodes will just drop voltage - you might as well use resistors in that case or even a pot as a speed controller.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
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true... but ive used them on a noisy case fan once, really quieted the sucker, and put some laying diodes to usePicking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
well u're dropping 3/4 of a volt everytime you slap a diode in there, so ya - its an easy way to drop a fixed voltage without having to tie into ground. and there's virtually no risk. its a good way of doing it. only time it would be a problem is if you were at say 12 V and wanted to drop to 3 V, then you'd have to use like 6 diodes.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge