Best connection to speakers
I always had a problem trying to connect 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire to the terminals of the speaker and amp. I would twist the wire nice and tight but it would always fray a bit and be difficult to push the wire into the terminal hole. I tried banana plugs but had the same problem getting the wire in the hole, but once the wire was in it was very convenient. However, there were now double the connections to speaker and amp.
So It tried tining the speaker wire. Tining is adding solder to the ends of the speaker wire after it is twisted tight. It was very simple putting the tined wire into any speaker or amp connection, even in difficult locations. And the connection just felt very solid. You could feel the solder wire being crushed slightly as you turned the nut on the terminal. I bet the tined connection has the lowest resistance of any banana plug connection and it costs next to nothing if you own a solder iron.
So It tried tining the speaker wire. Tining is adding solder to the ends of the speaker wire after it is twisted tight. It was very simple putting the tined wire into any speaker or amp connection, even in difficult locations. And the connection just felt very solid. You could feel the solder wire being crushed slightly as you turned the nut on the terminal. I bet the tined connection has the lowest resistance of any banana plug connection and it costs next to nothing if you own a solder iron.
Post edited by bikezappa on
Comments
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Bare wire, tinned wire, or spades are the best, imo. Compression always seems to yield the best contact. Bananas or BFA connectors are convenience oriented.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
The neat thing about tinning them is that if the fit is still a touch tight, you can file the solder down a bit to get it just right.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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I'm a gold spade guy myself, but I was wondering if you thought to use silver solder?
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Silver solder is applied at a much higher temperature and would melt the insulation for about 2" to 6 ". I don't see any advantage to Silver solder.
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bikezappa wrote:Silver solder is applied at a much higher temperature and would melt the insulation for about 2" to 6 ". I don't see any advantage to Silver solder.
I've never had that problem melting all that insulation... the silver solder I use from WBT is of a very thin gauge, is 4% fine silver and melts readily. I use it on all things audio-current related not because I'll hear a difference but rather for the peace of mind knowing I'm using a high quality conductor on my audio components. I guess it just makes me fussy.
It kinda follows suit with my choice of using AQ FPS pure silver ICs and speaker cables on my main 2ch rig and AQ FPC pure copper in and on my other rigs. -
Must be a vocabulary think. The only silver solder that I ever used had to be applied with a gas torch. I gues they make different types (melting points) of silver solder.
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Silver solder is usually found in two different percentages, 2% and 4% (WBT for example). You can melt it easily with a standard iron.
I always figured it was cost based, but now that you mention heat and melting point - maybe 4% is the highest practical 'mix' for common use.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
Nah, I think your thinking of brazing rod, man. That's the **** you use if your brazing joints for like med gas service or refrigeration/HVAC You NEED a torch.
The electronic stuff is not the same.