Dx3065 woofer power handling

skydeaner
skydeaner Posts: 187
edited December 2005 in Car Audio & Electronics
Ok, right now I have a kenwood kac-6201 amp powering a dx3065 component set. The kac only gives me an option of high low or no crossover and I have it set on high right now which is a 12db/octace at 150hz high pass. Not really the most desireable frequency or roll off in my book. The problem is , even at that high of a crossover point when it is getting the full 60 watts rms per channel from that amp the woofers over move too much from the bass and end up making the voice kinda distorted. Would getting an amp with a 18 or 24 db slope help things out at all? If that won't help out I might start looking at setting up a 3way up front, it all depends, I would like to replace the amp anyway though, so if getting an amp with 18-24db crossovers would be better let me know. Oh yeah before someone asks, I have a mid-end panasonic deck with no bass boost on and bass set to 0db. HELP shouldn't these handle more than 60 watts?

Oh yeah, it's a clean 50-60 watts going to them too because the rating is at 14.4v 20hz-20khz full rms power at less than .08%thd

so at 13.8 its like 50 real clean watts
Fiberglass reminds me of peanut brittle, only fiberglass tastes better!
Post edited by skydeaner on
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Comments

  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited November 2005
    well, i think its the crossover point more than the power, a 3.5in speaker wont produce 150hz cleanly, so the best alternatives would be to get a passive "bass blocker" set and put them inline with the speakers, or get an active crossover and set those as tweeters, or like you suggested get an amp that has a higher crossover point, around 250-300hz at 12db would probably work.
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited November 2005
    it's actually a 6.5" speaker... but assuming you've set the gains properly, you should have loads of excursion left if you've xovered at 150 Hz... given this assumption, i honestly have no idea why this would be happening... sorry...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited November 2005
    ohhh, a 6.5, i see. if the speaker is moving too much as you say, the distortin may not be the speaker, but the surrounding plastic panels and metal, did you dynamat?
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited November 2005
    I see what your problem is your over powering that dx3065 set. The power handling rating on those is 40 watts you need to turn your gain down on your amp. You are trying to force them to play louder than there capable of playing. A better crossover would help also 24 db slope is what your looking for. A 12 db slope allows to much bass to come through which would also cause them to distort at high volume levels. A high end headunit would do wonders also because it would allow you to set your crossovers at 6,12,18 and 24 db slopes on your lows mids and highs.
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,820
    edited November 2005
    Hey, did anyone ever think to find out how high he has his tone controls turned up? If the bass is turned up too high, and the treble too for that matter, you can push the signal coming through the interconnects into clipping. At that point, nothing on the amp matters because the problem starts before the amp.

    Your crossover point is fine. It may be missing some info between 80-150 Hz depending on where your sub crossover is set but there shouldn't be a problem there. As far as power handling goes, 40 watts seems quite low. The DX series handled more power than the dB series and the dB series were rated at something like 100 watts RMS for the dB3065 component set. The manual listed for the dx3065 also says that recommended amplification is 5-100 watts. I think the website might have a mistake on it. I'm running 60 watts per channel to the a set of dB3065's and a set of dB6510's and have no issues.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited November 2005
    he said he had the bass set a 0db...
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited November 2005
    sky... are you using the whole component set? or just the mid? and are you sure you have the gains set properly?
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited November 2005
    Yeah i was wrong on the 40 watts thats what they have listed on the website tho. I just checked the owners manual and it says 5-100 watts so that amp should be fine for those. Remember once you turn your gains on your amp pass the 1 o'clock position you will start picking up distortion. I don't know where you have your gains set, but i would set them at the noon position and see how it sounds, and then go from there.
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  • skydeaner
    skydeaner Posts: 187
    edited November 2005
    i am using the mids and the crossovers and some jbl tweeters attached to the crossovers as well. The woofers if you buy them by themselves are rated at 130watts rms, They are mounted on 1.5" thick MDF which is mounted to my door panel. The gains were set using a test tone at 1khz with my deck turned 3/4 of the way up. Maybe I should check it with my DMM again if no one else has any suggestions or experience with these components.


    EDIT 1:
    Well My gains were set correctly and I even turned them down a bit, maybe the crossover is shot or something. I am going to take a MA audio M683i rated at 200x2 @ 4ohms, with a 12/db set at about 100 or so and see if it performs better with that, and if so I am going to sell both amps and get that polk c300.2 thats on sale for 200 on cardomain. I'll update you guys on whats goin on here in about an hour when i get done.
    Fiberglass reminds me of peanut brittle, only fiberglass tastes better!
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  • skydeaner
    skydeaner Posts: 187
    edited November 2005
    hehe they are hitting my door panels... another **** move by me
    Fiberglass reminds me of peanut brittle, only fiberglass tastes better!
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  • skydeaner
    skydeaner Posts: 187
    edited November 2005
    Any of you guys live around indianapolis? Cause someone needs to come over and smack me for never planning and checking things correctly
    Fiberglass reminds me of peanut brittle, only fiberglass tastes better!
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    its ok, we all do stupid schtuff... :D
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited December 2005
    Yeah i totally agree when i started messing with car audio about 9 years ago i done some stupid stuff too. I once owned a punch 45 amp and i did not know i needed to run 10 gauge power wire too it. So i just picked me up some 14 gauge power wire hooked it up, and time i would get to playing it good about five minutes it would over heat and shutdown. So whats the first thing i thought damn this is a sorry amp so after about ten times of overheating it burn up. So i sent it off to Rockford for service. After i got it back i started thinking i got to be doing something wrong. So i started reading up on installing amps and it said never use power wire smaller than 10 guage. So then i started thinking i went and bought me some 10 gauge wire and hooked it up and never had anymore trouble with it. Hey you have to start out somewhere theres a lot to know about car audio. ( By the way rockford fosgate's service department is sorry as hell it took 4 months to get that amp back there warranty is suck).
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited December 2005
    I put 180 watts RMS per channel into a set of DX 3065 components for years.

    I had two JBL GT180's bridged to each speaker. It was beautiful.

    I fried two mid's i believe... one the voice coil just smoked... the other just stopped working one day, i imagine the voice coil also went. but they didn't start to distort, and they didn't sound flappy, they always sounded perfect.

    after i dialed my gains back a bit - probably 150-ish x 2 then... i never had a problem for the remaining time i owned the speakers.

    my ex gf runs about 75 watts rms per channel to her set of dx3055 (the 5 1/4" version of the 3065") and has not had any issues at all, no bad drivers, no distortion, nothin as long as they have been in there... hell thats like 4 or 5 years.

    i always used between 70 and 100 Hz high pass 12 db / octave ... she's down at like 65 hz 12 db/ octave high pass.

    ...

    and yes mine hit the door panels too for a while until i jammed a 6x9" speaker spacer ring under the door grille plastic. JUICE THAT ****.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
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