4 wires to each speaker

drcookie
drcookie Posts: 3
I have 4 wires going to each speaker. My old speakers have a red/white on the positive terminal and a green/black on the neg. terminal. New Polk speakers have 2 Neg. and 2 Pos. posts. With the jumbers on, can the wires be split with one each going to the each of the 4 posts?
Post edited by drcookie on

Comments

  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited November 2005
    take the jumpers off your polk speakers (just unscrew the post) and run them the same way your old speakers were run. (positive red and white - negative green and black)

    On the amp end of things, twist the red and white wires togethers and plug into the positive terminal. Twist the Green black ends together and plug into the negative terminal.

    This is the classic definition of bi-wiring a speaker. If you have multiple amp outputs you can add that into the mix, but unless you say you have it available, I don't want to confuse this discussion with it.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • BobMcG
    BobMcG Posts: 1,585
    edited November 2005
    Welcome to the Forums.

    In a word, no.

    If you wish to biwire by using all four posts, you must remove the jumpers. The jumpers are in place for the purpose of using only one pair of posts.
  • drcookie
    drcookie Posts: 3
    edited November 2005
    Thanks for the quick response. The poblems is that the wires when twisted togeter will not fit into the hole in the post. What is the effect of leaving on the jumper and running one wire to each terminal?
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2005
    What the old guy , I mean Mcloki said...!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • drcookie
    drcookie Posts: 3
    edited November 2005
    Sorry, but this is my first time on this forum and not sure if I responded correctly. Apologize if this is a repeat.

    What is the effect of leaving the jumbers on and connecting one wire to each positive and one wire to ech negative?

    When twisted together, the wires will not go through the holes in the terminal.
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2005
    one wire = leave jumpers on....listen
    one to each post = jumpers off...listen

    you may or may not hear a difference depending on you rig..
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited November 2005
    drcookie wrote:
    Thanks for the quick response. The poblems is that the wires when twisted togeter will not fit into the hole in the post. What is the effect of leaving on the jumper and running one wire to each terminal?
    You can run one set of wires if you choose to and be done with it. (keep the jumper in place)

    To bi-wire:
    Run one wire to each terminal on the speaker and at the amp end get a pair of bannana plugs and twist the wires into the banana plugs. Then you can just plug the banana plugs into your amp or reciever.

    Michael.

    Beardog - haven't you ever heard a camera adds 20 years. (well adds something like that anyway...) ;)
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2005
    Beardog - haven't you ever heard a camera adds 20 years. (well adds something like that anyway...) ;)[/QUOTE]


    Ya, that must be it..!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited November 2005
    drcookie wrote:
    Sorry, but this is my first time on this forum and not sure if I responded correctly. Apologize if this is a repeat.

    What is the effect of leaving the jumbers on and connecting one wire to each positive and one wire to ech negative?

    When twisted together, the wires will not go through the holes in the terminal.

    If you wire all the posts and leave the jumpers on the result is your speakers will work. Be sure the posts with the positive wires on the speakers are hooked to the positive post on the amp/receiver and negative to negative. However, as you were told nobody does this, they remove the jumpers, which you should do if you are wiring all the posts on the speaker.

    RT1
  • Pablo
    Pablo Posts: 723
    edited November 2005
    Not sure if your question was answered for you, but I'll add my 2 cents, and I have a question.

    You seem to be asking 'attach 1 wire to each of the 4 posts on the speaker, but don't tie them together on the amp end'. Is this correct?

    If so, where are you hooking them up to on the amp? I'm assuming you have only 1 set of "fronts" on the amp. If you are hooking each set of those wires to different outputs, don't. That may not be a good thing for your speakers (or you amp).

    As an FYI, the purpose of the 4 posts on the speaker is to allow seperate wiring to the tweeter and woofers. The purpose of this is to allow a better signal to be sent at each of the frequency ranges. So if you can (or want), hook up a set of wires to the top, one to the bottom, tie them together at the amp side (pos+pos, neg+neg) and attach to the post. There are a million threads in here on bi-wiring, with the goods, the bads, the whys, the why-nots, the hows, the whens............(I haven't bi-wired yet, but it stirs up a bit a conversation when the question comes up, and eventually someone refers you to an older thread).

    Hope this helps a bit.
    Denon AVR-3803
    RTi-70 Fronts
    FXi-30 Surrounds
    RTi-38 Back Surrounds
    Csi-40 Center
    PSW350 Sub
    Panasonic PT-56WXF95 HDTVSamsung un60JS8000 SUHD
    Denon DVD-2910
    Xbox, Gamecube, PS2, PS3, PS4, xbox360, Wii, WiiU, n64