wiring subwoofers

dubldigit

just a question. i was wondering if it is healthy for my 2 polk momos 2124 to be wired for 8ohm? i have a kicker zr360 but when bridged and wired for 2ohm i blow inline fuses like crazy. i think because my subs are a four ohm minimum. is it a good idea to have them wired for a bridged 8ohm or is there a chance this might do sub/amp damage?

PolkThug

Are your subs SVC or DVC?

dubldigit

they are the svc model. i've just recently wired them for 8ohm and no fuse problems. but will my subs or amp be damaged??

MacLeod

Ohms are used to measure resistance and its resistance that keeps the amp from making too much power. Thats why an amp will make more power at 2 ohms than at 4 however if its not built to withstand the power itll make at 2 ohms things start breaking. Wiring the subs in series presents an 8 ohm load to the amp and so the added resistance reduces the power the amp will make and its less of a strain on the amps internals.

Im not familiar with that amp but if its a 2 channel amp and youre bridging both subs then youre amp is seeing a 2 ohm mono load which it is probably not made to handle as 90% of stereo amps are not.

Another thing, if youre inline fuse is blowing it kinda seems youre using too small a fuse.

neomagus00

if you're bridging a two channel amp with the subs in parallel, then mac is right, and it's seeing 2 ohms, which is bad... if, however, your subs are in series, the amp sees 8 ohms, and all is well in tinseltown...

PoweredByDodge

*vomit* 8 ohms.

way to get no power.

get another amp brother.

skydeaner

You could get a 4 channel and bridge one side to each sub, or you could get a mono and run it at the 2 ohms. Either way like poweredByDodge said, at 8 ohms your amp is putting out half the rms power it was made to put out.

MacLeod

PoweredByDodge wrote:

*vomit* 8 ohms.

way to get no power.

get another amp brother.

^^^ All the advice you need.

PoweredByDodge

i am a paragon of virtue, am i not?

dubldigit

i know the 8ohm load is alot weaker, and yes i know about wiring all i was wondering is if my 4ohm subs will handle an 8ohm load? the amp i have is a kicker zr360. also i'd rather use my subs for ashtrays before i get rid of this amp. the amp it self is older but way under rated, and will out do the newer kickers with equal ratings.. the only real problem with the amp is the efficiency a bridged 2 ohm load draws 50amps at a third of its power. it has two 40 amp fuses.


Kicker ZR360 Specs
Price & Contact: $649.95; 405-624-8510; www.kicker.com
All measurements @ 14volts unless otherwise specified
Frequency Response (4-ohm IHF Load, 20 Hz to 20 kHz 1 kHz Ref.): +0 dB, –.8 dB
L/R channel error max deviation 20 Hz to 20 kHz: .03 dB
Phase Response (4-ohm IHF Load, 20 Hz to 20 kHz 1 kHz Ref.): +20 degrees, –43.8 degrees
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Below Rated Output, “A” weighted): –103 dB
Distortion at Rated Output @ 1 kHz: .034% @ 400 watts
Output Power (resistive) minimum output (20 Hz to 20 kHz @ 1% THD+N, all channels driven into 4 ohms): 141.3 watts x 2 @ 14 volts; 141.1 watts x 2 @ 12.8 volts; 107.4 watts x 2 @ 10.4 volts
Output Power (resistive) minimum output (20 Hz to 20 kHz @ 1% THD+N, all channels driven into 2 ohms): 257.4 watts x 2 @ 14 volts; 244.5 watts x 2 @ 12.8 volts; 167.5 watts x 2 @ 10.5 volts
Output Power (4-ohm IHF Reactive Load @ 1% THD+N @ 60 Hz bridged): 574.2 watts
Output Power (2-ohm IHF Reactive Load @ 1% THD+N @ 60 Hz bridged): 725.4 watts
Crosstalk (Referenced to Rated Output, 20 Hz to 20 kHz): –62.4 dB
Damping Factor @ 100 Hz: 147
Voltage for Rated Output: 102 mV to 2.14 volts
Idle Current Draw: 2.3 amps
Current Draw @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 37.6 amps @ 182 watts
Efficiency @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 35%
Power-Up Noise: 10.9 dB SPL
Power-Down Noise: 11.3 dB SPL





judging by the specs any idea how much power i am running bridged @ a 8ohm load?

dubldigit

thx to anyone who's not a cowboy.

neomagus00

subs don't 'handle' a load, they provide it - it's the amp's responsibility to handle it, and every amp in existence handles 8 ohms... you'll be getting about 300 watts total out of that amp at eight ohms, which means 150 apiece to the mm2124s, not a ton of power... and don't worry about the current draw, it's no concern...

and i really like this spec sheet, why don't they give you cool stuff like this any more?

dubldigit

thx a bundle thats all i was wondering

PoweredByDodge

actually dick shiner...

1- don't rag on cowboys when they're right and you've got a stick in your hind.

2- the spec sheet you posted shows the amp capable of a 2 ohm load bridged, putting out about 750 watts. that is IDEAL for those subs.

I do not see why you don't simply bridge the amp - run the subs in parallel at 2 ohms, and get "everything you should be getting" out of the subs and the amp. You have an IDEAL setup there. If the amp has two 40 A fuses, then you should put say a 70 amp inline fuse in front of it (if that is your only amplifier). If you're blowing fuses like crazy, it's because you're using too small of a fuse.

Increase your fuse size according to say 10-20% less than the fuse ratings on the amps you're using added together, and then see if you're still blowing inlines.

You talk about "this amp putting out way more power than its predicessors (spelling - i'm tired)", but you are going to run it at 8 ohms when its 2 ohm capable????????? I had assumed, wrongly, that being a 2 channel amp, it was only stable to 4 ohms bridged... but if it is 2 ohm stable as stated, and you aren't running it that way, then you're mindless to say the least.

And for all the world's cowboys, may I say upon their behalf... "Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction."

dubldigit

ok buckwheat. the reason i'm blowing fuses is because my subs are not 2ohm capable they are 4, the fuse i am using is an 80 amp just like it should be. the subs are not made to run at 2 ohm, far as i know you can't bridge both for 4 ohm so i went with what worked. also not only was i blowing fuses but my amp would go into protection mode. the subs are pretty much crap for what i need and will not shine and from what i've ever been told, you match your inline to your amp fuse, you don't take an amp that requires an 80 amp draw and put in a 70 amp inline. but in guess i should know better than to argue with an uncledad having horse **** cowboy. **** off it was an honest ques..

MacLeod

Dude, a sub will never be 4 ohm capable or 2 ohm capable or 8 ohm capable. They dont accept a load, they are the load. Can a 50 pound weight be a 25 pound weight? Nope.

With a 2 channel amp and a pair of 4 ohm subs you can either run one sub to each channel, bridge them in parallel for a 2 ohm mono load or bridge them in series for a 8 ohm mono load. Thats it. If you wire them at a 2 ohm mono load and your fuses blow and it goes into protection then its not stable at 2 ohms mono so youre left with running each sub off one channel of the amp.

This isnt a problem with your subs. Those are outstanding subs and dont blame them because you bought the wrong amp to go with them. If you want to run a pair of sub you shoulve got a Class D amp.

PoweredByDodge

you are one stupid son of a ****.... two 4 ohm subs in series = 8 ohm load to amp... two 4 ohm subs in parallel = 2 ohm load to amp.

if the amp is going into protect... then either your gain is too high because you're an idiot... it is overheating because it's under a seat or in some confined area ... or it's just plain busted.

and yes dumbshit - you dont match your inlines to your amp's fuses... you want your inline to blow before the amp's fuse will blow... if you have a single amplifier with a 40 amp fuse on it (2 20's or 4 10's) then you go about 10% below that... if you have multiple amplifiers, such as in my case where I have two amplifiers that require 150 amp fusing, one amplifier that requires 75 amp fusing, and one that requires 30 amp fusing... then you add it all up ( 4 0 5 amps) and then knock off about 20%... giving about 420 amps... I have two 0/1 gauge lines with 200 amp fuses = 400 amps... That is safe.

I would explain it to you - but you're too stupid to understand, as evidenced by your remarks.