Hookup & tweaking system for novice
HuskerTRex
Posts: 22
OK - here goes. I just recently purchased the following system after about 10-11 years with an old Kenwood rack system.
Rti12's (fronts)
Csi5 (center)
ps505 (sub)
fxi5 (surround sides & backs)
receiver (harmon kardon 635)
Anyway while setting up the speakers with HK's on-screen setup it asks for crossover settings on all speakers as well as the sub. Right now I have everything set to 80 - is this correct? I also have the fronts set to large and everything else set to small - is this correct? I have my sub connected LFE but on my receiver my sub options are: off, LFE or LFE +L/R. When I choose LFE the sub never appears to be on, so I changed to LFE +L/R. Not sure of the difference? Sorry for such silly questions to most of you - but this stuff is all new to me and I'm learning as I go. Thanks in advance for your responses!
Rti12's (fronts)
Csi5 (center)
ps505 (sub)
fxi5 (surround sides & backs)
receiver (harmon kardon 635)
Anyway while setting up the speakers with HK's on-screen setup it asks for crossover settings on all speakers as well as the sub. Right now I have everything set to 80 - is this correct? I also have the fronts set to large and everything else set to small - is this correct? I have my sub connected LFE but on my receiver my sub options are: off, LFE or LFE +L/R. When I choose LFE the sub never appears to be on, so I changed to LFE +L/R. Not sure of the difference? Sorry for such silly questions to most of you - but this stuff is all new to me and I'm learning as I go. Thanks in advance for your responses!
Post edited by HuskerTRex on
Comments
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You could try setting all speakers to small and sub on, using the LFE out
Nice choice of gear !!!! -
I did try fronts on small, and to me the fronts on large is more of a full sound.
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I know this isn't one of your questions, but I would suggest getting a calibration dvd(like AVIA's Guide to Home Theater ) and an analog sound level meter from Radio Shack. This will help you calibrate your audio/video system to get all of the speakers to the same levels.
I would go with the LFE+L/R for the fronts like you have them.Tschüss
Zach -
Okie, good suggestion about the Set up disk.
If you like the sound set to large then leave them that way. Your 12s are hungry you may not have enough juice out of that single reciver, as nice as it is, you may not be doing justice to your mains. Most peeps with the 12s use an external amp. Your mains will play low sucking lots of juice from your receiver, which may/will comprimise the sound quality. Setting them to small sends all the bass around and under 80 to the sub. leaving more "juice for the mids and highs. Setting to large sends the signal to the mains , again using lots of the reciever's power.
But it's all up to you. -
okiepolkie wrote:I know this isn't one of your questions, but I would suggest getting a calibration dvd(like AVIA's Guide to Home Theater ) and an analog sound level meter from Radio Shack. This will help you calibrate your audio/video system to get all of the speakers to the same levels.
I would go with the LFE+L/R for the fronts like you have them.
Definately get the Avia and the ratshack meter. VERY good advice. A must have for any audiophile. -
Thanks for the advice. I will take a look at the calibration disk as well as probably purchasing the sound meter. So, I do not have enough power from my receiver? If I would get an extra amp - any suggestions and cost estimates. If I have to go back to the wife and explain I need to buy additional equipment, I will need good reasons - lol.
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HuskerTRex wrote:Thanks for the advice. I will take a look at the calibration disk as well as probably purchasing the sound meter. So, I do not have enough power from my receiver? If I would get an extra amp - any suggestions and cost estimates. If I have to go back to the wife and explain I need to buy additional equipment, I will need good reasons - lol.
For those power hungry RTi12's no. You arent even reaping the benefits of them based on your current wattage restrictions.
Cost estimates depends on what you can afford..or what the wife will let you
I have heard a lot of good things from people on the Crown amps..like the 2 models below
Crown XLS 602 Power
Crown XLS 402 Power
I have personally not heard them..but people say lots of good things about them and their Polks together -
Here, give her this response:
We just paid a lot of money for really good speakers, however I am in danger of ruining them because I am not giving them enough power. Contrary to popular belief, too little power is what generally causes speaker damage. The reason has to do with clipped signals, causing distortion in speakers. If you are trying to play a loud passage in a movie or a track of music, the lower power amplifier may not be able to cleanly reproduce the power, resulting in a clipped signal. More powerful amplifiers can reach the same loudness without taxing the system. You will probably even be able to play the speakers too loud without having the signal clipped. Good,used two channel amplifiers can be had for around $200 for 200 watts per channel(Carver is just one example). It all boils down to the fact that you don't want to damage your speakers.Tschüss
Zach -
You could downgrade the receiver return it and by a lesser model saving you cash to buy an amp
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Thanks again. OK - what do I need to look for in a new amp for my towers? 2 channel only I assume. How many watts and all that good stuff? How would the hooking up an additional amp work? Would anything run through my receiver, or would the new amp just hookup to my front speakers and on my HK I would turn off the fronts? Sorry for the dumb questions....
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Your HK has preouts. Buy a 2-ch power amp, feed the FL and FR preouts to the amp, move the speakers from the HK's spekaer post to the amp's, and you are done.
BTW, I am doing the same with my HK DPR-2005. The front are driven by a vintage Carver M-500t rated at 251wpc @ 8ohms.That gives the HK more breathing room to take care of the other 5 channels.
-fredv- -
HuskerTRex wrote:Thanks again. OK - what do I need to look for in a new amp for my towers? 2 channel only I assume. How many watts and all that good stuff? How would the hooking up an additional amp work? Would anything run through my receiver, or would the new amp just hookup to my front speakers and on my HK I would turn off the fronts? Sorry for the dumb questions....
New amp..
Price, space constraints, wattage, performance..typical equipment stuff.
Wattage for towers..i would suffice to say about 2x300w@8ohm should be plenty..if you can get more then get more..you can never have enough power but you can always have too little..remember its not overpowering that blows speakers usually....its underpowering them that does. The RTi12's are rated at 50-500w a channel..this doesnt mean you need to have the full 500..
You would attach the amp to your pre-outs on your receiver..Front left and front right
There are no dumb questions..thats what we are here for.
Confused? You have come to the right place for answers.
Edit - Fred beat me to it. -
Husker, I'm glad you asked those questions. I was wondering about similar things. You guys rock.Fronts: RTi150's
Surrounds: FXi50's
Center: CSi40
Rears: RTi38's
Sub: PSW450
AVR: H/K 525
DVD1: Samsung HD-831
DVD2: Pioneer 563A
HDTV: Sony Grand WEGA KF50XBR800
Amp: Adcom 5503 -
if money is an issue, I say take back the 635. buy a 235 (the cheapest of their models with full 7.1 and Most Importantly: Pre-outs)_- then if only new separate amps are in the cards: 2Outlaw monoblocks- rated at 200watts rms.
note: the 235 is readily available for $350 at J&R. Check their website. -
Dude,
Tell your wife you love her, that she is most important over audio gear, buy her something nice thats inexpensive, (a collectable?). Then get your new amp, keep your receiver, dont worry about watts so much, you want high current, lots of electrons dancing down the pipe so to speak. Amps work in different ways, you want say 30 amps minimum peak to peak with headroom, or maybe you will see one 75 amps peak to peak with less headroom, they will both do the trick just a bit differently, remember high current rated somewhere around 200 watts or so into 8 ohms, both channels driven.
RT1