SDA 2B Upgrades/Amplifier Questions

Stew
Stew Posts: 645
edited March 2006 in Vintage Speakers
I just found this forum while searching for Polk SDA. I've been a Polk fan since I bought a pair of mini-monitors in 1981. Bought my next pair of Polks (Monitor 7's) in 1988 and, after several upgrades, ended up with the SDA 2B's that I still own. I still love listening to my 2B's when I find time (4 kids) and I haven't found anything else that compares (except better SDA's).

I read several threads on upgrades including "SDA 2B Studio Crossover Upgrade" and I'm seriously thinking about the crossover upgrade and RD 0194-1 tweeters. As much as I love my 2B's, the highs sometimes sound a bit harsh and the bass could use a little more punch. Everything I've read here makes me think these upgrades will improve those issues.

My question is whether these upgrades, especially the crossover, will make a profound difference with a Yamaha AX-500U integrated amp (100w/ch with 170w/ch headroom @ 6 ohms). Plenty of volume for my taste and room size but I see a lot of people on this forum running much more expensive amps. A high end amp is not in the budget any time soon and I'm wondering if these upgrades will still make a big difference. If so, would a better amp make a big difference on top of the upgrades? Thanks in advance for the help.

Glad to find this forum. Good to know that SDA fans are still plentiful and that Polk still supports us!

Stewart
SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
1000VA Dreadnought
Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
Post edited by Stew on
«13

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Welcome to the fray.

    IMO, the upgrades WILL make a difference that you will notice. Of course, a better amp will make things even better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,083
    edited September 2005
    What they grumpy guy said.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Hey, I resemble that remark.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,083
    edited September 2005
    In order:

    Tweeters
    Amp
    Crossovers

    That's how I'd attack it.

    DDtTTS
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • BlueMDPicker
    BlueMDPicker Posts: 7,569
    edited September 2005
    Hi Stew,

    Welcome to the forum.

    The tweeter upgrade will provide instantly noticable results. If you have a lot of hours in front of the speakers with the SL2000s, the first impression of the silk domes may be slight disappointment (for lack of a better term) until the new tweets break-in a bit and you become adjusted to the new sound as well.

    Crossover upgrades for the 2Bs are relatively inexpensive and will provide you with a tighter, better defined bass (from my experience.)

    If a new amp isn't in the cards at the moment, the upgrades to the speakers are still worthwhile IMO.

    Enjoy!

    Mike
  • ckpiv
    ckpiv Posts: 35
    edited September 2005
    Stew,

    I have been running a pair of SDA IIB's since the late 80's until a couple of weeks ago when I finally upgraded to SRS 2.3's. In my experience with them, I too found the SL2000's rather harsh so I updated to the RD0194's. Wow - what an improvement! The high's are much more smooth and well defined. You should do this upgrade first. $48 a tweeter for club members will give you instant results.

    As for the bass... I went from a Yamaha reciever to a Kyocera Integrated amp to a Parasound amp. with each step the bass improved. The SDA's like high current and will come alive the more you throw at them. You can pick up a nice amp at a reasonable price on ebay or on the flea market thread here. Also the placement of the SDA's are very important as well - I had mine 5.25" from the back wall which gave me a nice tight bass response. Any closer bass got muddy and farther out it would drop off so you need to experiment here. I also found the bass response was also effected by speaker cable selection so you may want to look here as well. The crossover upgrade would be my last resort IMO.

    Good luck.
    2 ch rig:
    Parasound Halo A21 amp
    Wyred4Sound DAC2
    Audiophilleo 2
    Dodd Audio Tube Preamp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Mac Mini + Amarra, Audirvana Plus, Pure Music
    2TB External HD
    PS Audio P3
    Rotel RCD1072 cd player
    Polk SDA-SRS 2.3 Speakers
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    ckpiv wrote:
    The crossover upgrade would be my last resort IMO.
    That's only because you haven't done it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ckpiv
    ckpiv Posts: 35
    edited September 2005
    That is true. I was only giving my opinion in the steps I would take.
    2 ch rig:
    Parasound Halo A21 amp
    Wyred4Sound DAC2
    Audiophilleo 2
    Dodd Audio Tube Preamp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Mac Mini + Amarra, Audirvana Plus, Pure Music
    2TB External HD
    PS Audio P3
    Rotel RCD1072 cd player
    Polk SDA-SRS 2.3 Speakers
  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll go ahead with the tweeters and crossover upgrade. Crossover upgrade is fairly cheap and looks like a fun project. I looked up the parts at partsconnexion.com and current price is just over $50 to do both speakers. The 39 and 12 uF caps are available in either 400 or 630v and the 20 uF cap is only available in 400 v. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to the 400 vs. 630 v?

    What about burn in for tweeters and crossover? Should this be done at normal/low/high volume? I've seen 50 hrs mentioned. Does it take that long?

    If I decide to upgrade the amp down the road, what should I look for in a reasonably priced used amp? Mine is 100w/ch at 6 ohms with 2.1 db headroom. Volume is plenty in a 15 x 22 foot room but I gather sound quality and bass response would improve. Thanks for suggestions.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited September 2005
    Stew wrote:
    Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll go ahead with the tweeters and crossover upgrade. Crossover upgrade is fairly cheap and looks like a fun project. I looked up the parts at partsconnexion.com and current price is just over $50 to do both speakers. The 39 and 12 uF caps are available in either 400 or 630v and the 20 uF cap is only available in 400 v. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to the 400 vs. 630 v?

    Can you send me a link or PM showing what the crossover upgrade is and what it does for you? I also have a pair of SDA 1b's that I purchased new back in about 1987 and am thinking of putting back into service. I definately need the new tweets, but after about 18 years, I am sure the crossovers could use some going over as well.

    Thanks,

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Try searching the Vintage Speaker forum for "sda crossover upgrade". More parts/expense to do the 1b's compared to my 2b's. This is all new to me; others on this forum have first hand experience.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    I'm quessing you're going with the Solen caps, right? Just get them all the same, 400V. I prefer Sonicaps, but they are a lot more money. Don't forget to replace the resistor, get the Mills wire-wound 5 watt and replace the silver mica with a 750pF 500V.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Correct, planning on Solen caps. Do I need to replace the silver mica? The "SDA 2B Studio Crossover Upgrade" indicated that this is a high quality component and doesn't need replacing. By the way, www.solen.ca has some of the caps cheaper. Has anyone tried ordering through them?
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Solen caps are cheap enough already! Just get them from PE.

    The silver mica caps that Polk used are crap, rated at 1000pF, tolerance of +/- 50%!!! Get the replacements, 750pF, 500V, tolerance of 5% or less.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    F1nut wrote:
    Solen caps are cheap enough already! Just get them from PE.

    The silver mica caps that Polk used are crap, rated at 1000pF, tolerance of +/- 50%!!! Get the replacements, 750pF, 500V, tolerance of 5% or less.

    OK, I'm going to ask what may be a dumb question. Why change a 1000 pF cap to a 750 pF? :confused:
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,511
    edited September 2005
    Stew wrote:
    OK, I'm going to ask what may be a dumb question. Why change a 1000 pF cap to a 750 pF? :confused:

    Have you got a schematic for your speakers? Polk will send you one if you ask for it. 750pf is the spec value.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,511
    edited September 2005
    In reagrds to amps, folks will have their brand preference. I've got SRS 2's in a large open room with 14' ceilings. 200 - 250 WPC @ 8 Ohms (300-350 @ 4) did nicely for me. It will depend on what you can spend too.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    SCompRacer wrote:
    Have you got a schematic for your speakers? Polk will send you one if you ask for it. 750pf is the spec value.

    Wow, Polk used a cap with a value somewhere between 500 and 1500 pF when the spec value is 750! Don't have a schematic but sounds like I need one. I'll add the 750 pF to the list. Thanks to you and F1nut for the info.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Hey, I'm not going to steer you wrong.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Parts Connexion carries a 300v +/- 5% miconics silver mica (SMICA- 54432) for a whopping sum of $1.50 ea. Will this do the trick?
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    The original was rated at 100V, so that'll be fine.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Just out of curiosity, what's the point of that 750 pF capacitor? 12 uF + 0.00075 uF is still essentially 12 uF. Does it serve some function other than very slightly increasing the capacitance?

    Thanks again for all the advice. It's amazing to find this kind of interest and support for 15 year old speakers! It may be a while before I have time to do the upgrades but I'll post how it turned out when I'm done.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    It's a by-pass cap which operates at a different frequency.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    F1nut wrote:
    It's a by-pass cap which operates at a different frequency.

    I did a quick search on bypass capacitors and found the following statement on Auricap's website (http://www.audience-av.com/auricap_application_notes.htm):

    "Do not use bypass capacitors in the signal path. A single capacitor for DC blocking/AC coupling creates a simple path with one time constant. The signal quality will be compromised if a bypass or multiple bypass capacitors are added to a signal path capacitor. Bypass capacitors were used in the past to bypass low quality film capacitors or electrolytic capacitors. The bypass was the lesser of two evils. With the advent of better quality film capacitors the need for a bypass capacitor was eliminated. Bypass capacitors create multiple signal paths with multiple time constants. These time constants are very short but they can still be heard as a smear or overall loss of focus."

    I don't fully understand this and wondered what some of you think.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    I believe they are talking about power supplies, not crossovers.

    The following is taken from an article on the quality of different caps.

    "ERO MKP1830 0,01mF MKP 100VDC – 1% tolerance – 5,5x7x7,5mm (a.k.a. Vishay Roederstein MKP1837)
    Another part of the crossover of the “Progress” speaker (it’s that very small blue block on the bottom right of the photo).

    Technical Specifications: Metallised polypropylene, radial capacitor, designed for LC/RC filter circuits, coupling and decoupling at high frequencies. Very low priced cap.

    Sound: I was tipped by Klaus Witte of Germany to try this capacitor as a bypass cap for the Mundorf M-CAP SUPREME. I tried them as a bypass for the tweeter series caps in my Progress speaker and I must say I am very impressed! To get straight to the point they don't change a Supreme into a Supreme Silver-Oil but they really do clear things up. I must admit I was sceptical at first as the value is only 10nF (0,01uF) - and the caps in the Progress are 12,6uF. The difference is most noticeable with classical music but also good quality recordings of jazz and fusion benefit: No change in soundstage width or depth but there is more "concert hall acoustics" that let you get into the recording more. Not as liquid as silver/oil but they take away the "grainy" edge from the Supreme's. A gain in clarity and transparency making instruments better separable from each other, the violins in an orchestra are a group of individual violins instead of one mass. Jazz drum brushes sound more like a brush than a "shush".
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    F1nut wrote:
    I believe they are talking about power supplies, not crossovers.

    So that's what they mean by "signal path capacitor." See your point; if bypass caps help Mundorf M-CAP SUPREMEs, they should certainly help Solen Fast Caps. Thanks for the enlightenment and for putting up with all my questions! I'm looking forward to upgrading and hearing my "new" speakers.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,341
    edited September 2005
    I have been doing some research on the Forum on this topic since I have a pair of SDA-2s and have been consideing the crossover upgrades. I have upgraded the tweeters with the new silks and I found a nice improvement. I highly recommend doing this with your SDA-2Bs.

    My crossover has a 750pF bypass around a 0.5 mF in the tweeter circut of the crossover. I talked with Ken Swauger via email about the by-pass. He mentioned that there is a school of thought that mixing the capacitor types may deter the performance.

    I contacted both SonicCraft and Percy Audio. I gave them a schematic of my crossover and the parts I needed and asked for a recommendation. Both Jeff at SonicCraft and Michael Percy said that mixing the silver mica with the film capacitor should be avoided. Ken Swauger suggested that I use aligator clips to install the silver mica bypass and see how it affected the sound.

    In Percy's catalog I was looking at the DynamiCaps and Wondercaps and these are metalized polypropylene and film. I was considering using these caps for the 0.5 mF and 750 pF portions on my crossover. The writeup on these caps states that "You may find by-passing is not required with these very transparent capacitors". It also states that "if by-passing DynamiCaps use no more that 1/100 the value of the main capacitor".

    I was hoping for some feedback from the Forum. Has anyone used these caps? Do you thing the 0.5 mF and the 750 pF Wondercap is a good match?
    Carl

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Carl,

    The 0.5 is a uF, not mF.

    You bring up an interesting question and one that I've been thinking about as well. But, alas I haven't had the time to investigate.

    What other caps are you considering to mix with the Wondercaps?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited September 2005
    Hmmmm ... What do you think of using a 750 pF metalized polypropylene cap instead of the silver mica to bypass a Solen in the 2B's? The Percy Audio catalog that schwarcw referred to shows a 750pF Wondercap for $5.95. Other than a few extra bucks, would there be any downside to using these or some other 750 pF metalized polypropylene caps?
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,726
    edited September 2005
    Only one way to know for sure, try it with both, then decide which one sounds better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk