sda srs problem
pills6175
Posts: 16
I wonder if anyone has experience fixing this problem.I have a pair of sda srs approx 17 years old.The bottom end cap of the right speaker has somehow got warped and has separated from the bottom of the speaker at one corner about 1/8 inch.Also the end cap itself is made up of 3 pieces glued together and due to the warp one piece is separating from the rest.Any ideas on how to fix this.I coudn't find a easy way to get the end cap off,no visible screws etc.
Also due to the gap would there be any problem with the speaker performance.
Also due to the gap would there be any problem with the speaker performance.
AJ
Post edited by pills6175 on
Comments
-
They are broken and you have to give them away. I am right across the river in Marion, so you can deliver them this weekend(I think I've mentioned that before to you, but hey, persistance never hurts).
More seriously, there should be a way to remove the end cap, but I haven't had any experience with those type of speakers. Others would be able to help you more with that part.
As far as the performance goes, it depends on wheather there are air leaks in it. I'm assuming that the end caps are just that, caps. So there is an mdf cabinet underneat the real wood parts. If the mdf is warped too, and there is a gap to allow air to flow in and out, then you might have some loss of lower frequencies. One way to check this would be to push in on the passive radiator. When the drivers are pushed out towards you, watch to see how long they stay pushed out. If they immediately go back in, then you have an air leak problem. If they hold their postion for a while, then you should be fine. The only other problem would be if you can audibly hear resonance problems from the loose wood at the bottom.
Hope this helps some.
ZachTschüss
Zach -
If they are constructed like my SRS 2's, the top and bottom caps will be bolted on. If the piece is too bad to be repaired, you would have to make one. There are 4 retaining each cap on mine. You would have to remove the passive radiator to gain access.
They are attached to inner pieces of the speaker cabinet as okiepolkie said, so any air loss would have to go around the studs to get out. Mine were loose yet they still passed the fluid coupling test okiepolkie described (pushing and holding in the PR and watch the drivers extend, hold and watch for the drivers to slowly retract).Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Thanks for the tips guys.I'll try the test and see if there are leaks.If so I guess I better fire up the ole table saw and see how good a craftsman I am.AJ