Should I do it?

Shizelbs
Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
edited September 2005 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Okay, as many of you know, I am having a new house built. Its at the point where the insulation is in place, with the drywall to go up soon.

This is my chance to drill holes to run surround sound in my family room. Should I just go in and drill holes? Do I just drill holes between the studs where I would like to make the speaker connections? I will be running the wire under the floor, in the crawl space, and then up the back wall.

Any comments or suggestions? I have zero home-owner, DIY skills, so any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.
Post edited by Shizelbs on
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  • shack
    shack Posts: 11,154
    edited September 2005
    Shizelbs wrote:
    Any comments or suggestions? I have zero home-owner, DIY skills, so any advice is appreciated.

    Thanks.
    Even though it is a relatively simple thing to do if you know exactly what you want, in your case HIRE someone to prewire you house before the drywall guys get there. I did mine but I knew weeks in advance where everything was going. Tell them what you plan on doing and they will have it done quickly. I know you are going to spend some big $ for your rig so don't be cheap and have it done right. They may even be able to offer some tips to make it look/work better.
    "Just because you’re offended doesn’t mean you’re right." - Ricky Gervais

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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited September 2005
    DO IT!!! It's a hell of a lot easier to drill those holes w/o the drywall in place. Surround placement might be a little off, but you'll be glad you did it. You don't have to necessarily run the wires right now, but drill the holes and run some heavy duty twine to where you can get to it in the basement/ crawlspace and staple the twine to where you'll put the holes in the drywall to put in binding posts. Once the house is done, cut out your hole, tie the speaker cable to the twine and pull the other end.

    The only reason I disagree w/ shack about hiring someone is that they'll put in the crappiest/ cheapest wire they can find.
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  • shack
    shack Posts: 11,154
    edited September 2005
    unc2701 wrote:
    The only reason I disagree w/ shack about hiring someone is that they'll put in the crappiest/ cheapest wire they can find.
    Yep, probably that monster stuff and charge a fortune for it.

    Seriously, most installers will run what you want. You know enough to specify gauge, quality etc. They should know exactly what code requires for inwall wires. Even if you do it yourself go ahead an run the wires now. It is so much easier.

    I was recommending this on Shelby's self described level of competence and the time frame.
    "Just because you’re offended doesn’t mean you’re right." - Ricky Gervais

    "For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase

    "Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson
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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited September 2005
    shack wrote:
    I was recommending this on Shelby's self described level of competence and the time frame.

    Good point... and it depends on the contractor. The builders in my neighborhood will only let you work with their electrician and the electrician wouldn't install the stuff you gave them. They wanted to use radio shack 18ga.... WTF?
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    Well, hiring out is not an option. See, I am not paying for the builder's super expensive 'upgrade' where they would do it for a fee. I have to do it, in that its a secret operation.

    Other houses that did get the upgrade have some no-name cheap 16 gauge wiring. I am glad I didn't pay for that crap.
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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited September 2005
    Yeah, that sounds about like my nieghborhood- they did the same thing to my brother in North VA. AND when he put in his own wire, they ripped it out. Drill the holes & go with the twine. If they rip it out you won't lose anything and you can still run wire w/ a fish tape.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    I'm just drilling holes tonight. The wire will go in later. The holes will be covered up by the insulation, so, hopefully no one will notice.

    I was going to make a night long project out of it, and wire for a LAN throughout the house, but that certainly would be noticed.
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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited September 2005
    the main thing for a LAN is to make sure you'll have a way to get from the basement/ crawlspace to the attic. From there you can make any connections you need in the future by drilling up from the basement into the baseplate of the wall or down from the attic through the top of the studwall. look where the airducts go- you should be able to put in a piece of conduit that runs through that space & no one will know the difference.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    Well, since tonight is my only chance to do it, and now that I have a migraine, complete with aura, I am just going to stick to the surround wiring.

    For LAN, I'll just buy a couple cable modems, and do wifi from there.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited September 2005
    If it isn't CL3 wire for inwall installation, an inspector may find it and have it removed.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    Dennis Gardner wrote:
    If it isn't CL3 wire for inwall installation, an inspector may find it and have it removed.

    All I am going to do before I move in, is drill the holes. Once I move it, dropping down into the crawl space should be no problem. I agree though, I would be afraid of having the wire removed and wasting the money spend on said wire.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited September 2005
    Shizelbs wrote:
    All I am going to do before I move in, is drill the holes. Once I move it, dropping down into the crawl space should be no problem. I agree though, I would be afraid of having the wire removed and wasting the money spend on said wire.

    I gotcha, if I was closer, I would hold the flashlight!!!!

    Seriiously though, use CL3 code approved wire for inwall. Insurance can refuse claims if they find wiring not to code, even if the wire isn't the cause of trouble. I've seen it happen.

    Parts Express has some nice Carol wire with high strand count.

    Parts Express 14 Ga. Inwall
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    Note to self: charge batteries for drill before needing to drill things.

    It'll be okay. They didn't place as much of the insulation as I guessed they would today. So, I have one more day to get this done.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited September 2005
    I too have a love/ hate relationship with my cordless tools. Love'em when they work................ :D
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,504
    edited September 2005
    I was fortunate to have a builder let me do all my low voltage wiring as long as I used materials that were up to code. What a drag to have to sneak it in.

    Wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt if your gonna be around insulation.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • Shizelbs
    Shizelbs Posts: 7,433
    edited September 2005
    Well, mission accomplished.

    By the way, for a totally unrelated matter, how much would three sheets of sheet rock cost? No reason whatsoever, just curious.
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  • ND13
    ND13 Posts: 7,601
    edited September 2005
    Shizelbs wrote:
    Well, mission accomplished.

    By the way, for a totally unrelated matter, how much would three sheets of sheet rock cost? No reason whatsoever, just curious.

    HEHEHE!!!! ;):p
    "SOME PEOPLE CALL ME MAURICE,
    CAUSE I SPEAK OF THE POMPITIOUS OF LOVE"
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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited September 2005
    'bout $15 last time I checked (4'X8'X .5" = $5). I'm leaving for the hardware store, so I tell you exactly in about an hour.

    EDIT: 3/8" thickness is a little over $5, 5/8" is $8 for 4x8 sheets... they didn't have any 1/2" in 4x8 but it was $11 for 4 x12. I'm in NC, so local costs for you might be different.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
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  • shack
    shack Posts: 11,154
    edited September 2005
    unc2701 wrote:
    'bout $15 last time I checked (4'X8'X .5" = $5). I'm leaving for the hardware store, so I tell you exactly in about an hour.

    EDIT: 3/8" thickness is a little over $5, 5/8" is $8 for 4x8 sheets... they didn't have any 1/2" in 4x8 but it was $11 for 4 x12. I'm in NC, so local costs for you might be different.
    Whatever it is now, very soon it will be more (maybe a lot more). Anybody remember what happened to the cost of building materials after Hurricane Andrew?
    "Just because you’re offended doesn’t mean you’re right." - Ricky Gervais

    "For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase

    "Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson
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