Creating cutout holes for speakers without templates?
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chassa
Posts: 2
Hi,
I have ordered a number of Inwall speakers (LC265i, LC65i, LC80i, RC55i) which I am still waiting for delivery.
However, I would like to complete already the cut-outs of the holes since the rough construction works in my flat will be finished soon and I would like to prevent cutting holes into the walls/ceiling afterwards.
My question is, whether there is a PDF or similar for the cut-out templates so I can download and print them by myself. Alternatively, is it advisable to create the cutout holes after the measures given in the brochure without using the templates?
Thank you,
Ch
I have ordered a number of Inwall speakers (LC265i, LC65i, LC80i, RC55i) which I am still waiting for delivery.
However, I would like to complete already the cut-outs of the holes since the rough construction works in my flat will be finished soon and I would like to prevent cutting holes into the walls/ceiling afterwards.
My question is, whether there is a PDF or similar for the cut-out templates so I can download and print them by myself. Alternatively, is it advisable to create the cutout holes after the measures given in the brochure without using the templates?
Thank you,
Ch
Post edited by chassa on
Comments
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Hello chassa and welcome to the forum.
The template supplied with the speakers makes it easier to trace the cutout opening, but you can use the cutout dimensions listed in the Polk manual. With the template, all you need is a spirit level to get it straight and trace around it. Without a template, a 2' square and spirt level would be needed. Ensure you take precise measurements where to cut your openings before the walls/ceiling are covered and finished.
If the walls are not covered yet, consider building volume enclosures for the speakers. Download and print this pdf doc to show you how to go about it. You'll get much better sounding bass out out of them. You can check out some of what I did with my in-wall install here. Polk makes it easy by showing how far apart you need to make the ends of the enclosure depending on wall/ceiling joist width.
That pdf doc also shows the Polk custom in-wall enclosures (very pricey) and some pre-construction brackets. The pre constructon brackets are basically metal frames installed under the wallboard. The wallboard installers use a powered RotoZip tool to cut out holes around electrical outlets/switches. The metal frame acts as a guide for the tool so you get a nice, clean perfect cut.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Hi SCompRacer,
Thank you for your help! I will wait another 2 days and if the speakers do not arrive until then I will go for risk and have the holes cut according to the quoted dimensions.
Unfortunately it is too late for building enclosures, the whole construction is finished already (hence the rush with cutting the holes for the speakers). I hope it still sounds good without enclosures. I have a separate sub-woofer which I hope will provide the bass.
Regards,
Christian -
Yes, they will still sound good. Volume enclosures would smooth and extend bass response. A sub is needed to get below the LC265i's low frequency range regardless of whether it has a volume enclosure or not.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *