Need tunes for a Toyota

gwh

First post here in the car audio section.
Bought my daughter, who turns 16 in January, a 1993 Toyota Paseo yesterday.
The tunes in it suck, some after market crap from Wall-Mart.

Car has 2 speakers in the lower front door panels (1 Ea.), and two in the rear deck.

I would like to keep the bass in the rear and mids/highs up front.

I’m not sure what size the speakers are in the door, but would like to replace them with some Polk’s.
I’m not real interested in putting a massive box in the trunk, was thinking about maybe an amplified bass tube to simplify things.

Would like to run the mids/highs off deck power, need recommendation on a decent tuner/cd player also.



I’ve been out of car audio for over 15 years, please point me in the right direction.

Thanks,






G

audiobliss

Right direction? With running speakers off the HU and using a bass tube for the low end? Sorry, but you'll never get anywhere that way.

neomagus00

way to be helpful :rolleyes:

g - kenwood has an okay powered box; polk has a great new dual-sub ported box; or, you can use an Image Dynamics IDQ subwoofer in an absolutely tiny sealed enclosure, throw a good class-D amp on it, and enjoy... as far as specific recs go, we need a budget to give you good ideas...

PoweredByDodge

while our blissful audio friend may be a little over-killer here, let's get you started out...

ok - your toyota has got 4" in front - 7" in back...

Polk DB400 up front 4"
Polk DB675 for the back 6 3/4 - 7"

headunit ? - well the dash kit you'll need depends on whether you have that pocket below your factory radio or not - but a dash kit is 10 - 15 bucks, so don't sweat that... the deck, well I think the Kenwood KDC-4028 would be a good choice - 3 sets of 4 volt preouts, plays mp3's and wma's and all that - can be hooked up to an I-pod with an optional input adaptor, and its only about 180 bucks.

Now - for about 400 bucks, you can stop there.

Put 500 uF (microfarad) [15 volt AC tolerance or higher] capacitors in line with the positive lead to each speaker (these are like a dollar or two each at radio shack, just look in the parts bin - don't go spending 30 dollars at circuit-**** for the same thing), and call it a day.

you'll have a nice little system for your kid - damn nice to start out with at 16 i'd say.

now, if you want to do a little more...

you can get a 12" Polk DB124 sub - with a 1.5 cubic foot ported enclosure -that'll coset you about $150

Add in the amplifiers and power wire and all that jazz and you're up to about $950 bucks.

all the speakers would be amped- nothing running off the head - premium cables... she'd have the best system her or her friends had ever heard.

see the attached microsoft word file - i've put together a little "wish list" thing for you - it has all that i've talked about above, as well as the amplifiers (Hifonics because they're cheap and they're good for your application - durable) and everything else you'd need (except the dash kit).


PS _ by the way, don't waste your money on "powered subwoofers" - they're garbage. if the amplifier breaks you have to throw the whole thing out - and they usually cost an arm and a leg. also - those bazooka tubes are the joke of the audio industry. i've spent my life trying to think of newer and better ways to make fun of them. they sound and look like garbage. don't take this the wrong way but your daughter would get mocked out for a bazooka tube. a little 10 or 12 with a small sealed box and a 200 w amp would be better than a bazooka tube - although personally im partial to that polk DB124 with the slot port - Thom, one of the polk installers, did crazy numbers with two DB124's and a polk-pre-fab dual slot box.

audiobliss

Sorry if I came across as a bit of a jerk - was not my intent. I was just short on time, and I really know nothing about a system without amps. Running speakers off the HU? I'm just not familiar with that, as it's a lot better to use an amp.

However, it looks like PBD has you all fixed up there. Should be a nice system, wich ever way you go!

MacLeod

I second Vinny's recommendation. The DB's are excellent speakers and even off deck power theyll sound very good. That head unit looks to be a good one too.

I also agree that powered subs are kinda sucky. For this application tho I think a 12 could be a little much. A DB 8 would work in a box no bigger than a powered sub and sound a lot better. You can pick up a Alpine 2 channel amp bridged at 150x1 for $129 at Circuit City and youre all set.

gwh

I really appreciate the recommendations here .
PBD thank you for taking your time to put that together for me.
Looks like that would be a killer little system.

Audiobliss, No you did not come across as a “jerk”, your probably real passionate about the hobby and want to do things right the first time.


Glad I didn’t order up that bazooka tube and have my kid laughed at, probably would have scarred her for life.

Thanks,









G

exalted512

just having a bass tube in my truck would scar me for life, even if no one saw it.

If you have a little extra money, you could get a 4 channel and wire the front speakers to it and bridge the rear speakers for the sub
-Cody

gwh

I’m starting to pick up a few items for this Toyota project, I got this Infinity sub amp in the Flea Market section from fireshoes and now I’ve got questions on subwoofer selection.

I’m leaning towards a pair of the MM2084’s (8 inch momo’s)

Two would present a 2ohm load to the amp, right?
Is this too much amp for the 8’s? (see specs below)
Also looking at the R/T 326-08 Subwoofer Enclosure from cardomain (sealed Chamber Volume: 0.40 cu. ft. each side) Good choice for the 8’s/amp combo?



Infinity REF1211A
1200 Watt Class D Subwoofer Amplifier

CEA Rated: Power Output: 854 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms ,1300 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms, Dynamic Power: 1516 watts at 2 ohms.

Thanks,






G

exalted512

running them at 2 ohms would smoke those subs quick. You shouldve got a way smaller amp. I would get 2 dvc 4 ohm subs and wire the subs in series and then wire them together parallel to the amp. This will present a 4 ohm load to the amp. Or you could get those two 8s and wire them in series to the amp so itll get an 8 ohm load. Thatll do em good.
-Cody

unrealii

That amp is insane overkill. I suggest you keep that one for yourself and put it in your car

For a sub, I suggest the image dynamics idq10. It only needs about .55 cu ft for a sealed enclosure.

For an amp, I like cody's suggestion of a 4 channel, then bridging 2 channels for a sub. That will make things sound good and keep it simple. If you want, you can just go with an amp for the sub and run the speakers off of the head unit.

gwh

You shouldve got a way smaller amp.

Yeah I thought it sounded like a little too much power wise, but the price was one that I could not refuse. (can’t divulge the price paid since the offer was made via PM).

Any advantage in DVC's other than multiple wiring options?


G

gwh

That will make things sound good and keep it simple.

"Keep it simple" that's what I wanted to do (see first post at top) but I'm beginning to get that funny feeling that car audio is just as addicting as home audio, and I think I like it .



G

exalted512

DVCs seem to be able to handle power a little better than their SVC counterparts, but not a really noticeable difference. That and better wiring options is all the advantages
-Cody

MacLeod

exalted512 wrote:

just having a bass tube in my truck would scar me for life, even if no one saw it.

LMFAO!!!

Priceless!!!

That just made my sig!