Banana Plugs

unit731
unit731 Posts: 2
edited October 2005 in Speakers
Connect the speaker wires.

General inquiry.

I read/hear about "bare wire", "pins", "spring loaded clips", "spades" and "banana plugs".

What are banana plugs and where do they stand in the quality of connecting speaker wires?
Post edited by unit731 on

Comments

  • Mike682
    Mike682 Posts: 2,074
    edited August 2005
    Here you go:

    http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/home/connections_glossary.html?page=gallery&term=speaker_wire_connectors

    Bare wire is just stripping the speaker wire and connecting it directly to the receiver/amp.

    Spring loaded clips are the type of speaker wire terminals on the back of the receiver/amp. It's pretty much self explanatory: push the spring loaded lever to open the speaker wire connector, insert the wire and let go. The spring connector uses tension to keep the wire connected.

    Bananas help to make speaker wire connection easier.
    Receiver: harmankardon AVR235
    Mains: polk R30
    Center: polk CSi3
    Rear Surrounds: polk R20
    Subwoofer: polk PSW404
    DVD: Panasonic DVD-S29
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2005
    Only advantage of banana plugs (or any other terminator) is that they will not oxidize like bare wire. Also it makes connecting the wire to a reciever much easier. You can plug it right in the hole on the connector rather than unscrewing it and tightening it onto the bare wire.

    I personally do not terminate my speaker wire on either end. You will find it is a preference thing. Only thing about using bare wire is you will have to cut it back and expose some fresh wire about every year because it will oxidize.

    Depending on the binding posts on you speakers it is debatable if you will get a better connection with one or the other. Overall quality will not improve at all if you use Banana plugs. Is just used for what I stated above.

    Its nice to have banana plugs on the end that goes into the reciever/amp but I would leave the end that goes into the speakers as bare. Only reason I can see using a plug on the speaker end is if the binding posts on the speakers are too small or make it really hard to put in and take out the wire.
    Testing
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    Testing
  • louthewiz
    louthewiz Posts: 581
    edited August 2005
    Th banana plugs make a superior speaker connection as opposed to bare wire ,there are also speaker pins which are also good but I like banana plugs all the way since they make a better mechanical connection and the wires look alot better .
    My gear,
    Acer PH530 720P PJ
    100 inch Da-Lite Video Spectra screen
    Yamaha HTR 5790
    Toshiba HD-A3
    Denon 1600 dvd player with sdi out,
    DVDO iSCAN HD+
    Panasonic Dmr E-80H
    Dishnetwork HD pvr
    1 Audiosource amp300 150 wpc Fronts
    1 Audiosource ampone bridged 200 watts powering center
    1 Onkyo M-282 105 wpc amplifier sides
    polk cs400 center
    polk RT400 mains
    Polk mkII back surrounds,
    Polk FX300fxi dipole surrounds
    Velodyne DPS-10 sub
    Klipsch KSW-10 sub.:cool:
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2005
    How do they make a better connection than a big fat strand of 12 guage?
    Links?
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  • michael_w
    michael_w Posts: 2,813
    edited August 2005
    The whole thing is sort of debatable and I would say that bare wire will give the best connection. I use banana plugs on the speaker end of my 2 ch system simply because it makes it much more fun and easy to swap out speakers. They can be had for a reasonable price (no need to buy monster cable or anything pricy) and are worth giving a shot. If you enjoy constantly changing things in your system I'd say get banana's, and if you don't change stuff very often go for bare wire.
  • louthewiz
    louthewiz Posts: 581
    edited August 2005
    It has always been a preference for my personal use since I have been using the for the past 20 years , and they have always made a non corrosive contact between copper and aluminum which is mostly used with binding posts on amps,avrs,and speakers. I am an electrician with 25 years experience and when we need to splice or connect the 2 elements a special chemical must be used so to treat the 2 materials so that the connection will not get corroded when the conductors heat up under high amperage current is being delivered by them, so the speaker wire has the same charecteristics when 2 different materials are making contact and the banana plugs are treated with this chemical so the 2 different materials combine seamlessly, and this is a proven fact if you need more info look up the national electrical code for any state and you will find this info written in the manual. Lou
    My gear,
    Acer PH530 720P PJ
    100 inch Da-Lite Video Spectra screen
    Yamaha HTR 5790
    Toshiba HD-A3
    Denon 1600 dvd player with sdi out,
    DVDO iSCAN HD+
    Panasonic Dmr E-80H
    Dishnetwork HD pvr
    1 Audiosource amp300 150 wpc Fronts
    1 Audiosource ampone bridged 200 watts powering center
    1 Onkyo M-282 105 wpc amplifier sides
    polk cs400 center
    polk RT400 mains
    Polk mkII back surrounds,
    Polk FX300fxi dipole surrounds
    Velodyne DPS-10 sub
    Klipsch KSW-10 sub.:cool:
  • louthewiz
    louthewiz Posts: 581
    edited August 2005
    And like I stated before it also looks cooler and it makes it easier to make connections with no corrosion. :D
    My gear,
    Acer PH530 720P PJ
    100 inch Da-Lite Video Spectra screen
    Yamaha HTR 5790
    Toshiba HD-A3
    Denon 1600 dvd player with sdi out,
    DVDO iSCAN HD+
    Panasonic Dmr E-80H
    Dishnetwork HD pvr
    1 Audiosource amp300 150 wpc Fronts
    1 Audiosource ampone bridged 200 watts powering center
    1 Onkyo M-282 105 wpc amplifier sides
    polk cs400 center
    polk RT400 mains
    Polk mkII back surrounds,
    Polk FX300fxi dipole surrounds
    Velodyne DPS-10 sub
    Klipsch KSW-10 sub.:cool:
  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited August 2005
    Bananas add another joint in the wiring and thats one that you just don't need. Why add more resistance? They are great if you find yourself disconnecting and reconnecting your speakers often. If your wire oxidizes enough in a years time to warrant trimming, then you might to start looking for some different wire. A simple dab of No-Ox or a drop of de-oxidizer is all that you need. Skip the extra connections and stick with nekkid wire.
    9/11 - WE WILL NEVER FORGET!! (<---<<click)
    2005-06 Club Polk Football Pool Champion!! :D
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2005
    Frank Z wrote:
    Bananas add another joint in the wiring and thats one that you just don't need.

    Exactly. That is what Ive always thought. All preference though.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited August 2005
    Every high end cable comes terminated in some fashion, some of them allow you to change from spades to bananas or whatever. Bare wire is for amateurs. :D
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • michael_w
    michael_w Posts: 2,813
    edited August 2005
    F1nut wrote:
    Every high end cable comes terminated in some fashion, some of them allow you to change from spades to bananas or whatever. Bare wire is for amateurs. :D

    I guess because bare wire gets smooshed and oxidized over time and cutting back that expensive cable can start huring the wallet ;)
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited August 2005
    Frank Z wrote:
    Bananas add another joint in the wiring and thats one that you just don't need. Why add more resistance?

    Does it make a sonic difference?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited August 2005
    Early B. wrote:
    Does it make a sonic difference?
    Do $5 cables sound worse than $100 cables?

    It's all subjective.
    9/11 - WE WILL NEVER FORGET!! (<---<<click)
    2005-06 Club Polk Football Pool Champion!! :D
  • unit731
    unit731 Posts: 2
    edited August 2005
    Page 127: SMART HOMES FOR DUMMIES - 2003 2nd Edition

    Bare Wire, Pins, Banana Plugs, Spades

    "Any of the last three speaker-wire terminations is better than using bare wire ends. Which one you choose will probably be driven by the kinds of connections available on your amplifiers and speakers. You find the following connectors on typical amplifiers, speakers, and wall outlets."

    Spring-loaded clips, Banana-plug receptacles, Five-way binding posts.

    "When you purchase speaker outlets, do yourself a favor and skip any that have those spring-loaded, clip-style connections and go right for the banana or five-way binding post types."

    Anyone have any comments/opinions on what is quoted above from SMART HOMES FOR DUMMIES?
  • Mike682
    Mike682 Posts: 2,074
    edited August 2005
    unit731 wrote:
    Page 127:
    "When you purchase speaker outlets, do yourself a favor and skip any that have those spring-loaded, clip-style connections and go right for the banana or five-way binding post types."

    I agree with the above statement with regard to speaker wire connections on both speakers and receivers.
    Receiver: harmankardon AVR235
    Mains: polk R30
    Center: polk CSi3
    Rear Surrounds: polk R20
    Subwoofer: polk PSW404
    DVD: Panasonic DVD-S29
  • yenoorekim
    yenoorekim Posts: 21
    edited October 2005
    I'd say bare wire is the best way to go. Here's my reasoning: the terminals on your speakers and receiver are rigid as are banana plugs, to a lesser degree. They are going to connect cleanly, but also create low\no contact points. Bare wire is very pliable (especially common copper wire) and will bend and compress itself into the terminal as you tighten it, allowing for more surface area for contact to occur. I'm sure the difference is so small that it is virtually inaudible, but when one spends thousands on components, the ensuing neurosis makes sure all the little things are taken into account. For pure convenience however, I would recommend banana plugs. :)
  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited October 2005
    ^^ Good points. And I think I agree about the more surface area of contact with bare wires versus banana plugs. However, what about spades? Wouldn't they give you almost as much, if not as much, surface area of contact as bare wires? And they wouldn't oxidize and so wouldn't need to be trimmed back. And it'd be easier to change speakers/equipment than with bare wire.

    So, I think spades are the best solution. What do y'all say to that?
    Jstas wrote: »
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    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited October 2005
    Upon looking at a picture of some BFA banana plugs, I'll hafta admit that sure does look like a lot of contact area. However, it may not be very 'tight', thus increasing resistance. I'm not sure.
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited October 2005
    to quote a good friend of mine...

    "poo nuggets..!!"

    adiobliss...those are good banana`s..

    I just like saying poo nuggets.. :D
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    :cool:
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited October 2005
    audiobliss wrote:
    Upon looking at a picture of some BFA banana plugs, I'll hafta admit that sure does look like a lot of contact area. However, it may not be very 'tight', thus increasing resistance. I'm not sure.

    I use them, it is very tight and secure. A tad on the pricy side, $25 for a set of four. Build quality is top notch, secured by two tiny screws to hold the wire and strands separately.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • yenoorekim
    yenoorekim Posts: 21
    edited October 2005
    Yes, they look like they'd do nicely. Makes me wonder...if they are soft enough to squish 'em flat with one hand they would have my full attention. When you think about it though, it's just another connection point to lose signal through. Are the screws gold plated too?
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited October 2005
    honestly, I don't remember, and I am not about to go behind the amp to check 'em out (I have a rather difficult enclosed in-wall unit, which is also why banana is the ONLY practical way of connecting my speaker cables to the amp). Btw, why do you want to squeeze 'em flat? they are not soft, and there's no way you can flatten them with your bare hand.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • W WALDECKER
    W WALDECKER Posts: 900
    edited October 2005
    audiobliss wrote:
    Upon looking at a picture of some BFA banana plugs, I'll hafta admit that sure does look like a lot of contact area. However, it may not be very 'tight', thus increasing resistance. I'm not sure.
    i prefer the BFA bayonet style banana plugs on the amplifier end and spades on the loudspeaker end. i am having a 10' pair of Groneberg TS premium loudspeaker cables built with this configuration. why ? because i can! does one have a distinct advantage over the other? i seriously doubt it and it is strictly a matter of preference....thanks....WCW III
    Rogue Audio stereo 100 tube amplifier - Lector Zoe preamplifier with 6H30 pi's
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited October 2005
    does one have a distinct advantage over the other? i seriously doubt it and it is strictly a matter of preference....thanks....WCW III

    I suspect you are correct. I'm thinking that, when I get some other parts of my system 'up to snuff', I'll go with spades on both ends.
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited October 2005
    Hehe......he said, "Poo nuggets"

    My take. There are good quality banana plugs and spades and there are bad quality. Pay the extra money for the good ones!!! The best joint on either is soldered, not screwed or crimped. If using bare wires, tin the ends.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk