biwiring

millerman 3732

as many of you can tell i am new to the fourm and have many questions some of which you all may think are pretty dumd but iam still learning , which brings me to my next question, BIWIRING how dose it help and how do i do it properly. the only speaker i have currently capable of this is a csi400 which has the gold straps between the binding post , so dose that mean the speaker is BIWIRED and if so should i run the speaker wire from the amp to the top or bottom bining post or dose it make any differance???

disneyjoe7

The gold looking bar on the speaker is saying to you yes I'm bi-ampable / bi-wireable. Remove the bar and you can Bi-amp or Bi-wire the speaker. Does it make any big difference I say not, but it's fun to play so go ahead if that what you like to do.

millerman 3732

but dose the gold strap not act like the wire in a biwired speaker after all it is gold ?

disneyjoe7

I'm not a fan of the Gold bar thing, and many here must feel the same as many have replaced them with speaker wire jumper.


They both conduct electricity so I'm not sure where you're going with your question.

millerman 3732

Remove the bar and you can biwire or bi amp the speaker

whats the difference why not keep the bar

disneyjoe7

With a bar connected speaker one can the following your choice.

1.) do nothing it's fine as it is.

2.) remove bar add another speaker wire pair and Bi-wire the speaker (the bar must be removed for this to work)

3.) remove bar add another speaker wire pair and Bi-amp the speaker you are using 2 amps for 1 speaker. (the bar must be removed or you kill one or both amps. )

By doing 2 or 3 the difference is the quality of speaker wire or amp(s) / AVR in use.


Clear as mud huh?

millerman 3732

maybe iam not under standing this whole concept dose biwiring mean running a jumper from one binding post to the other or running 4 seperate wires to the speaker from the reciver or amp ?

Toxis

biwiring means your speaker wire has one set of terminals at the receiver end and two sets at the speaker end (which you pull the gold jumpers out).

F1nut

The son of wango.

aaharvel

Originally posted by disneyjoe7
I'm not a fan of the Gold bar thing, and many here must feel the same as many have replaced them with speaker wire jumper.


They both conduct electricity so I'm not sure where you're going with your question.

question- what is wrong with the factory gold jumpers? Do speaker wire jumpers offer better performance? I'm only asking cuz my rti4's are biamp/biwireable.

RuSsMaN

First of all, they are not 'gold', they are brass.

Use whatever speaker cable you are using to connect to your amp, to make a jumper. Beit high end cable, or lamp cord, it will make a difference over the stock (cheap) brass jumpers.

If you don't want to do it, or don't want to try it, so be it.

BrentMcGhee

i think i can clear things up for yha millerman.

Your speaker has 2 sets of binding posts becasue the bottom ones are connected to the woofers in your speaker and the top set of terminals are connected to the tweeter in you speaker.

The jumper is there in place so when you run a single wire from the receiver to you speakers and plug it into one set of the binding posts both your woofers and your tweeter are getting the signal.

What they were talking about when they said some people removed the jumper and used a small peice of wire in between the two jumpers was that instead of using the thin exposed metal jumper you could use the same high grade wire you have running from you receiver to the speaker to connect the two terminals.

Now bi-wiring is where you have two seperate runs of speaker wire running from your receiver to your speaker. One run is connected to one set of terminals on your speaker and the other run is connected to the other set of terminals on your speaker (both sets of wires are connected to the same set of terminals on the amp). In this setup you should not have any form of jumper between the two terminals becasue both posts have there own line direct to the receiver. The thinking here is that now you have essentially doubled the bandwidth to your speaker by say using two 14gauge runs instead of just one. Also with only having the highs being pulled through one wire and the mids and low being pulled through another wire you will get better sepertaion of details because those two drastically different frequencies are not running along the same line and interferring with one another.

Now here is the really interesting part. Bi-Amping. This is where you actually have two seperate amps.... one that feeds the one set of terminals and one that feeds the other. Now this can be done with two identical amps or you can even go as far as.... some people prefer certain types of amps for differnt frequencies (ex. amp manufacturer A. for the mids and lows and amp manufacturer B. for the highs)

I hope that clears it up for yha..

millerman 3732

thanks Brent Mcghee that what i wanted to know. now i understand , sorry for the trouble guys.

BrentMcGhee

No trouble at all, that is what the forum is here for.

reeltrouble1

Originally posted by BrentMcGhee
No trouble at all, that is what the forum is here for.

But it is not here for you to post up something for sale in the FM get an offer to buy from the FM and then decide to sell it for more to someone on the street, you cant have it both ways cochise.

RT1

tycomps

A few questions, I have a pair of vintage sda srs's (1-15" sub radiator, 4-6.5" mid drivers, 2 tweeters). I have a yamaha pa with two 400 watt amps. I want to use an amp to each speaker post to biamp the speakers. I wanted to know if when removing the jumper strap, are the individual speaker components then split evenly between the low/hi, ie.. 15" sub and 2 of the 6.5" mids for the low frequences, and 2 6.5" mids and the 2 tweeters for the highs. Also with the speaker rated at 1000 watts, what would then be the amount of power each side of the now split crossover can handle. Last question, what is the frequency range of the individual sides of the crossover now? Please let me know. Thanks

SuperDave

If both wires were running from the same source they would both be carrying the entire bandwidth, whether that would help I don't know. The only thing two wires could carry is more current. If you have decent wires to begin with that shouldn't be an issue unless you have a bryston 14bsst or a levinson,,,,,
SD

BobMcG

Millerman,

There are two ways to bi-amp, vertical and horizontal.
Horizontal, is using (2) separate amps to power each channel (L&R).
Vertical, is using (2) separate amps to power the frequency ranges (H&L). This can be done with or without the use of an external crossover.

There are two different ways to biwire, using double biwires and using two separate wires.
Double biwires utilize two wires joined into one at the amp end for convenience in connecting to amps having one set of binding posts per channel.

Two separate wires can most easily be used when connecting to an amp that supplies you with four sets of binding posts per channel for just this application. This allows you to easily attach a different type wire of your choice for handling each of the frequency ranges.

The level at which your system is at and wires being used will be big facters in determining the amount of (or lack of) benifit you will achieve from biwiring. I am of the camp that in all likelyhood people shouldn't expect glowing results when experimenting with run of the mill type receiver based systems. That is not to say not to experiment. It doesn't mean that at all. On the contrary, experiment away that's the fun of the hobby. It's just that not all systems will show the same difference in changes made to them AND not all listeners will hear the same results if any.