Long Time, No Post

skijake

I haven't posted for some time since I last sought your collective wisdom. I'm back for a little more and hopefully you can all help. I have a pioneer 6500 HU and a polk mm12 (enclosed) sub. It is powered by a 2-channel Profile amp (I think Macleod said that was a decently priced amp). I recently blew my second sub despite keeping it within the supposedly safe play parameters set by the "professionals" I had install AND set up my system. Thus far polk has been great on the customer service end. They replaced the first one that blew and I assume they will replace this next one as it is within the 3 year warranty. The only thing that sucks is the fact that I have to pay the shipping. Are my problems a product of the sub or my amp or what? Should I sell this sub on eBay once I get it replaced and buy something else? If so, what? I will soon be driving a 2004 Tahoe with less space in the rear than my trooper which has tons of space. Does the different car call for a different sub? I am on a budget of around $500 to upgrade the tahoe sound. Will I need to replace the HU to operate the sub or does the stock HU come ready to handle a sub? The stock speakers are Bose and should be decent enough. Should I use my current Profile amp in the new vehicle or replace that as well? Any direction you (a collective you) would be greatfully appreciated.

neomagus00

the mmxxx series subs have always had a problem with blowing up if you give them even a single watt over their rated power; you seem to be having problems with them (it's a matter of playing style, i believe, where some people have issues and others don't), so i'd reccommend you go with a different sub. the mm2124 from polk isn't at quite the level of the mm124 that you have now, but it doesn't have nearly as many of these issues, either. or, if you don't feel comfortable with polk, you can get a different brand - tell us what model of amp you have and your musical preferences (quality or volume or a mix), and we can go from there.

on the HU issue, i'm not familiar with the 2004 tahoe, nor with integration of a sub into a stock system. due to my lack of familiarity, i'd be forced to get an aftermarket HU if i were in your position; it affords better SQ, and a much easier upgrade path, at the expense of a larger subwoofer budget. you can get a good HU for around $160 - someone else will have to point you in that direction, if you wish to look there - and that'll leave a decent $340 for the sub and box.

within the $500 you've got, i'd definitely reccommend you stay with your current amp - buying a new amp and sub would constrain you to 'budget' items, and to equal or better the mm12 you need to do better than that; the profile amp you've got should be more than sufficient.

one final thing - do we need to take into account installation costs for this, or will you be doing it yourself (pick option number two )?

exalted512

you can get a line out converter here for your sub
http://davidnavone.com/
you will be hard pressed to tell the difference b/t that and a new head unit
and the mm12 sucks, i went through 6 or 8, i forgot, the new series, the 2124 is much better except doesnt have the power handling
-Cody

audiobliss

Though, I absolutely love the way the MMxx series subs look! I just love that logo! Looks much better than the current line-up, imo.

skijake

According to the research I've done and information provided my current profile amp ("California"?) supposedly provides what the RMS the MM12 calls for. From what cody says and some other things I've read it appears as though the sub sounds good--until, of course, it blows out. The first one lasted about 5 months and this last one about 9 months. I would like to own a sub that last longer than a year.

I typically play more hip-hop than anything else and I appreciate a combination of quality sound and quantity. People outside the vehicle don't need to hear it for me to be satisfied but if that is a byproduct, so be it.

If at all possible I'd like to avoid replacing the stock HU and cody's idea about the line converter sounds good though I'm not exactly sure how it works. I'm friends with a pretty good install guy so I'm sure he would understand all about it. But for my own understanding, w/o the aftermarket HU is it possible to make any adjustments in the sub through the stock HU? How do I set the high or low pass filter? Answers to these questions would be appreciated.

If I can avoid having to buy a new HU and/or amp then maybe that means I can put a little more into the sub (and box?). I've read a little about Infinity's powered sub but I don't know if that will put out as much/quality sound as I would like. There isn't a whole lot of space between the 3rd seat in the Tahoe and the rear door so I'm not sure how that will affect accoustics/positioning of the sub (not to mention the size of sub and box). Any ideas on designing a sub&box setup that I could easily remove when I need to haul something would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Also, on any of these things that seem to be opinion based (such as, what kind of sub) the more that reply the merrier. I am as yet a neophyte when it comes to the sound biz.

neomagus00

h'okay... here is the earth...

you can stick with the stock HU and add a line converter, yes, that would be fine - unless, of course, the amp has speaker-level inputs, then you don't need an LC. the adjustments you'd be able to make would still be limited to the basic bass/treble controls on the stock HU, plus whatever controls you have on the amp. if you have a crossover on the amp, happy times. otherwise, you'll probably need an active unit that goes before the amp.

the infinity sub is good for what it's designed for, but i think you can do better. as for truck boxes, look at q-logic's trunk boxes - look, don't buy! - and you can see how to make an appropriate box. or, perhaps, the ones that go under the seat are more appropriate - honestly, i have no idea how a tahoe is laid out internally.

finally, as to what kind of sub, that depends on budget. come up with a number and list the features your amp has (specifically whether or not it has speaker-level inputs and/or a crossover) and we can help you out. you mentioned $500 - i assume that still stands?