Power Amp output testing

beardog03
beardog03 Posts: 5,550
edited June 2005 in 2 Channel Audio
Gentlemen`s...

I have (4) Rotel RB980BX`s , and I would like to find out how strong the power output is on each one...

With a Rat Shack Multi-Meter , how would one go about doing this ?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance for helping me shock the hell out of myself..!!



Bear
Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


:cool:
Post edited by beardog03 on

Comments

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited June 2005
    why, just for the sake of wonderment?
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited June 2005
    pretty much...

    I just want to know which one(s) are the strongest (best) ones, or are they all the same...


    thats awl....!



    that and I got a new multi meter to play with...
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited June 2005
    You can test the output of each amp using test tones and, resistors to simulate a load. This will give you a ballpark figure. However, it won’t really tell you how the amp (s) will act in a “real” world situation. Certainly worth trying for kicks. Post your results. As far as how this is done, not sure, but you may need more than a meter. I’m sure there is info on the net somewhere. I don’t think it’s as simple as just hooking it up to the meter.

    Try here: http://www.diyaudio.com/

    Good luck

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited June 2005
    I say don't worry about it. If they're all the same model and unmodified, there's not going to be enough difference between them to matter at all. Besides, it's not something that's easily (or accurately) done at home with just a multimeter. The possibility of frying a perfectly good amp is also there, if you happen to mess up. There's the disclaimer.

    IF you were going to try it -- and I don't recommend it---

    You'd need a 4 or 8 Ohm dummy load resistor, capable of handling the full power output, connected across the speaker outputs on one channel, a sine wave recording of whatever frequency you want to test, and a way to determine when the amp begins to clip. Then you measure AC voltage at the speaker outputs and figure power by squaring the voltage and dividing by the impedance (resistance). 28.3 Vrms into an 8 Ohm load would be 100 Watts.

    Jason
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited June 2005
    AC voltage? I would've though DC...
    Ludicrous gibs!
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited June 2005
    But seriously, again, what's the point?

    Let's just say, for the sake of argument that you have two identical 100wpc amps. One will clip at, say, 110 wpc, the other 118 wpc...the difference between 110 and 118 (again, I'm just using this as an example) is so minute as to not even be worth mentioning.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited June 2005
    I think it would be cool to measure the variance (or lack of).
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited June 2005
    Another test which might prove more would be a serious musical listening session to find out which one sounds the best. Of course you wouldn't get to use your new multimeter though... :D
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • bknauss
    bknauss Posts: 1,441
    edited June 2005
    Although you could get a rough idea of power output from measuring voltage across a resistor, there's a lot of room for error based on what THD level you want. You could have something obscenely low and have power not near the rated output, or it could be obscenely high and you'd be getting more than the rated output.

    I suggest looking for a magazine who has done a review on the receiver before, or a receiver that is very similar.
    Brian Knauss
    ex-Electrical Engineer for Polk
  • bknauss
    bknauss Posts: 1,441
    edited June 2005
    Originally posted by nadams
    AC voltage? I would've though DC...

    Music (and sine waves) is not a constant signal, therefore its an AC signal.
    Brian Knauss
    ex-Electrical Engineer for Polk
  • jmierzur
    jmierzur Posts: 489
    edited June 2005
    When they were reviewed way back in 94 or 95, the total output of the amp was 137 wpc.
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited June 2005
    Originally posted by TroyD
    But seriously, again, what's the point?


    I just want to see if one is more solid than the other....

    I had 3 of these amps running through the yammie for the HT rig, bought new covers from B&K / Rotel for all three, then stumbled across a 4th one for about the same price as I paid for the other three....couldn`t say no because I`m an audio addict.!!

    I started wondering if one might be more solid than the next...
    Hence my question....

    I now have a Dennon 3802 AVR , and the power output is about the same without the amps...the amps can handle 4ohm loads though...the Dennon cannot.

    I found a Parasound 5 ch amp I want , and am considering selling a couple of amps and other gear to get it...


    Question....do power amps get weaker over time as the components get more use ?

    It would seem logical that a newer amp would have more punch....right..?
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • Mike682
    Mike682 Posts: 2,074
    edited June 2005
    I used to have a Radio Shack power meter that would measure wattage going to the speaker. It measured two channels and would display up to 200watts on each channel..

    I can't find this thing in my basement and Radio Shack said they stopped making them..


    Mike
    Receiver: harmankardon AVR235
    Mains: polk R30
    Center: polk CSi3
    Rear Surrounds: polk R20
    Subwoofer: polk PSW404
    DVD: Panasonic DVD-S29
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited June 2005
    Originally posted by beardog03
    Originally posted by TroyD
    But seriously, again, what's the point?


    I just want to see if one is more solid than the other....

    I had 3 of these amps running through the yammie for the HT rig, bought new covers from B&K / Rotel for all three, then stumbled across a 4th one for about the same price as I paid for the other three....couldn`t say no because I`m an audio addict.!!

    I started wondering if one might be more solid than the next...
    Hence my question....

    I now have a Dennon 3802 AVR , and the power output is about the same without the amps...the amps can handle 4ohm loads though...the Dennon cannot.

    I found a Parasound 5 ch amp I want , and am considering selling a couple of amps and other gear to get it...


    Question....do power amps get weaker over time as the components get more use ?

    It would seem logical that a newer amp would have more punch....right..?


    Your question is logical. And, yes parts can wear out. Mostly they fall out of tolerance or in the case of some by-pass caps (electrolytic), they can dry out. My Nak receiver has 1 channel slightly louder than the other and I suspect one of the caps may be out of tolerance. If you suspect this I would strongly recommend a qualified tech/service center to check them out. Just hooking a VM up to them isn’t going to tell you much.

    The most telling sign, as in my case with the Nak, is that you can hear an audible difference. It’s always a good idea to have your gear checked out to make sure it’s still in spec. After time things to tend to wear and it isn’t always noticeable.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited June 2005
    I have`nt noticed any differencein any of the four amps..

    I did a switch out type test and they all sound the same..


    still have plenty of punch, and now all the covers are new..!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • TnBilly
    TnBilly Posts: 14
    edited June 2005
    All well and good you're enthused but like was said before you're more likely to blow the amp(s) than to get any benefit from it. The output is checked with a fixed - read signal generator - input and measured with an oscilloscope on the output as well to see the clipping before it starts the smoke :(

    If you want to play with the new meter you can and should check the dc-offset of each of the amps. In quick read.... no speakers connected to amp or check speaker outs that aren't being used ...... amp warmed up for at least several minutes.... meter set to lowest dc volts range...... check voltage on left and right speaker terminals (on the amp). Voltage should be between 0 and 30 or so mv and if it's over 75-80 mv or if it's not reasonably stable then the amp has problems that are reliability problems.

    Ron
  • ND13
    ND13 Posts: 7,601
    edited June 2005
    Originally posted by TnBilly
    All well and good you're enthused but like was said before you're more likely to blow the amp(s) than to get any benefit from it. The output is checked with a fixed - read signal generator - input and measured with an oscilloscope on the output as well to see the clipping before it starts the smoke :(

    If you want to play with the new meter you can and should check the dc-offset of each of the amps. In quick read.... no speakers connected to amp or check speaker outs that aren't being used ...... amp warmed up for at least several minutes.... meter set to lowest dc volts range...... check voltage on left and right speaker terminals (on the amp). Voltage should be between 0 and 30 or so mv and if it's over 75-80 mv or if it's not reasonably stable then the amp has problems that are reliability problems.

    Ron

    Yeah, yeah, what he said.:D :p
    "SOME PEOPLE CALL ME MAURICE,
    CAUSE I SPEAK OF THE POMPITIOUS OF LOVE"