DIY Sub Box

Early B.

Since several of us have purchased Atlas 15's recently, I thought I'd start a thread on building the boxes for 'em. Wanna get some ideas on what others plan to do. This is my first attempt at building a box, so any suggestions are welcomed. I plan to build a rectangular box (30"D x 18"W x 24"H) with two 4" ports.

My question is about the bracing. Should I choose a single vertical brace (straddling the downward firing driver), two vertical braces, use 1.5" MDF all the way around, something entirely different or a combination thereof?

gatemplin

I like two crossed vertical braces and all 3/4" MDF. I have used 1.5" MDF and the walls will still vibrate, even with braces. So to keep the weight down I suggest just 3/4" and keeping the unbraced panel areas as narrow as possible.

Here is an different and very good example of how to build a sub enclosure from my friends Jon and Thomas.

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page30AS-15-1.html

michael_w

I've read through that box plan a couple times now and I like how the bracing is done.

Early what are you using as an amp? I think I will be using a sub250rf plate amp from Creative Sound Solutions but am not quite sure where to mount it with a downfireing sub. Would it be better to mount it inbetween the two ports or on the sub side? It also has a volume and crossover control box thing that I would probably mount on the opposite side facing the listener.

tryrrthg

gatemplin can correct me if I'm wrong but a single 6" vent will probalby get as much flow as two 4" ports. So for simplicity sake you could use a single 6" port (PVC pipe) instead of trying to get two 4" ports. I think that's the route I'll be going.

Early B.

Early what are you using as an amp?

I'm using a Rythmik Audio 250 SE.

gmorris

I am going to build a sonosub.

9 cubic feet of internal volume, tuned to 18.45 Hz via a 20" long, 6" diameter PVC tube.

I'm using my Parts Express plate amp, which is rated at 272 watts into 4 ohms.

Here is a picture of the design, created in Pro/E Wildfire 2.0

The sub in the pic is NOT the Atlas 15, it is just some generic model I downloaded because I didn't want to model the entire Atlas 15.

Early B.

gmorris --

9 c.f. -- WOW. What will be the diameter and length of the sonosub?

tryrrthg

Originally posted by Early B.
gmorris --

9 c.f. -- WOW. What will be the diameter and length of the sonosub?

I've been helping gmorris with his design so he probably won't mind if I answer.

It will be a 20" diameter sonotube about 54" long. total sub height will be around 5 feet, I believe.

gmorris

Originally posted by tryrrthg
I've been helping gmorris with his design so he probably won't mind if I answer.

It will be a 20" diameter sonotube about 54" long. total sub height will be around 5 feet, I believe.

Yes.

The overall height of the sub, measured from the floor to the top of the sub is 58.68 inches tall!!

Fortunately for me, my fiancee is very accepting of my hobby. She pretty much lets me do whatever I want in the basement. WAF was not an issue when tryrrthg & I designed this sub, so we designed it without compromise. This thing should knock the house down. My current sub doesn't even respond below about 30 Hz. I don't mean it rolls off, I mean it doesn't even respond. This Atlas 15 models at -6 dB's at 20 Hz. I can't wait....:D

tryrrthg

Originally posted by gmorris
This Atlas 15 models at -6 dB's at 20 Hz. I can't wait....:D

Yes, MODELS at, in the real world, in your small room, it will be more like +10 to 20dB's at 20hz. :eek:

Early B.

I'm considering laminate for finishing my sub -- a very dark brownish & black color. I love the variety and the durability that laminate offers. My reservation is that I don't know exactly how it'll look -- will a huge, laminated box look like a big **** kitchen countertop in my den?

Anyone have experience with laminate or seen a laminated DIY sub? Pros and cons? Cost vs. veneer or paint? Thanks.

tryrrthg

This guy used laminate on his sub. He got it from www.wilsonart.com

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page30AS-15-1.html

Of course this guy is a pro and I can only hope to be half as good as him at building subs. Check out his Wilson Audio clones:

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page3SlammPics.html

http://www.klone-audio.com

michael_w

That would be cool but I don't think I have enough height to work with to make a sonosub. (only about 45 inches I think) I thought sonosubs were more like a tube inside a tube inside a tube?

gatemplin

Originally posted by tryrrthg
This guy used laminate on his sub. He got it from www.wilsonart.com

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page30AS-15-1.html

Of course this guy is a pro and I can only hope to be half as good as him at building subs. Check out his Wilson Audio clones:

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page3SlammPics.html

http://www.klone-audio.com

That is the same guy who designed my speakers.

A member here named Codey used laminate on his Tempest sub:

Early B.

OK, you guys convinced me -- gonna do laminate.

So here's where I'm at:

- the Atlas 15 arrived earlier this week
- I ordered the amp two days ago
- bought the MDF and supplies at Home Depot
- ports will arrive tomorrow
- getting all of the MDF cut tomorrow
- will spend the weekend glueing up the box
- will attach the driver and amp, and conduct a test run on Wednesday
- if everything goes well, I'll dismantle it, purchase some laminate to finish the box, add acoustic foam, then reassemble

I'll snap pics throughout the process and post them in another thread.

gmorris

Originally posted by tryrrthg
Yes, MODELS at, in the real world, in your small room, it will be more like +10 to 20dB's at 20hz. :eek:

:eek: :eek: :eek:

gmorris

Originally posted by michael_w
That would be cool but I don't think I have enough height to work with to make a sonosub. (only about 45 inches I think) I thought sonosubs were more like a tube inside a tube inside a tube?

What do you mean you only have 45" to work with?

And a sonotube is just one, single tube. At Home Depot, they had the 8, 10 & 12 inch tubes all inside each other (12 on the outside, with the 10 in the 12, and the 8 in the 10). Maybe that is what you are thinking of? They had them this way just for the sake of conserving space, you could buy whichever tube you wanted.

Or maybe you're thinking of something totally different?

michael_w

I think the sonotube I was thinking about had a couple differnt size tubes with bracing in between to add strength to the cabinet. I also looked at a different one that used I think three different size tubes becuase it was some fancy folded design or something.

I only have 52" to work with because my system is under my bed... maybe a pic will explain things better. That blue thing is my bed. It's an old pic so my equipment has changed but not the position of my gear.

btw just got a recepit from ascendant saying that it should ship as soon as possible

michael_w

Here is a braced one. Link

inside...


A folded one...

Linky

All pictures are the rightful property of their owners from diyaudio.com

goingganzo

all you need is a brace between the top and botom sence the force is evenley on all surfaces exept top and botom a sono is actuley have less flex than a box sub

michael_w

This has been a good day... sub is in the mail and I just found out that tomorrow I will be going for a long drive to pick up my beefy plate amp, two 4" ports and maybe some grill cloth to do my Monitor 7s. (they don't sell 6" ers..)

michael_w

Well I just got home from a long long drive to Creative Sound Solutions through some odd weather (first nice hot sun to hail). Turns out that it isn't a store or a warehouse but a persons' townhouse. A very nice person to deal with and I got to see the end table he made complete with plate amp on the side and shiva underneath along with some of the kit speakers that they offer. He also invited me to the Northwest Audio Review thing on June 4th. Just a gathering of people to hear the latest kits from RAW, Exodus Audio and CSS.

I was amazed at the size of the ports. I was thinking 4" wouldn't that big but with an over 7" opening these things are massive. The sub250rf plate amp is big and beautiful. It and its 360 watts will mate perfectly with the behemoth Atlas 15

some pics...

Early B.

I was amazed at the size of the ports. I was thinking 4" wouldn't that big but with an over 7" opening these things are massive.

You're right about those ports, dude. Got mine today from PE. My port holes were originally 4" wide, but I had to keep cutting the circle wider and wider to accomodate one of the ends of the port. My circles came out crooked as hell, but they're functional. I'll probably caulk the inside of the ports just in case.

BTW -- I'm about half way done with assembling my sub. I'll post some pics of the process in a couple of days.

Early B.

My box is going to be very, very heavy. Once assembled, it'll probably exceed 100 lbs. I'm thinking about putting 2 inch wheels on it to make it easier to move. Is this a bad idea?

Not sure if it'll cause the box to vibrate or if the weight of the sub will be enough to prevent it from moving around.

gatemplin

Hi Mike,

CSS is a very small operation since it is internet direct. You should definitely try to get to the NAR. I'm sure there will be some awesome stuff and Bob and Al are very knowledgeable and helpful.

Originally posted by Early B.
I'll probably caulk the inside of the ports just in case.

Definitely make some type of gasket. The best thing to use IMO is closed cell foam tape from a home center. It's cheap but makes a very good seal. It is used for sealing doors and comes in many sizes. Use it on the driver mounting surface and the ports, binding posts etc. The caulking or silicone is too permanent.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished subs. I'm tempted to build a sub with one of the Exodus Audio drivers. I already have the amps.

gatemplin

Originally posted by Early B.
My box is going to be very, very heavy. Once assembled, it'll probably exceed 100 lbs. I'm thinking about putting 2 inch wheels on it to make it easier to move. Is this a bad idea?

Not sure if it'll cause the box to vibrate or if the weight of the sub will be enough to prevent it from moving around.

I tried that. The problem is that the ground the sub sits on isn't always level and the sub can rock and the wheels vibrate. I have tried the swivel wheels with bearings and the stationary ones.

michael_w

Hey Early, are you using the plans chad sent you or do you have a design of your own? I'm thinking of making a downfiring one but am not quite sure how high to get it off the ground and which side to put the plate amp. On the side with the driver or the one with the ports? I still havn't got an email back with plans so I'm a little lost. I've been going by these plans and am trying to think about how to revert it to the orginal downfiring position. I also have to add in space to mount the seperate volume / crossover control which should be no problem if I do downfiring.

Good luck with the box Early and remember to take lots of pics

Early B.

Hey Early, are you using the plans chad sent you or do you have a design of your own?

Yeah, I've been waiting for Chad to send me the plans, too, but haven't gotten them yet. I have been following the plans you provided the link for. However, I modified it in three ways -- I'm doing a rectangular box instead of a square one; mine is downward firing with ports in the back; and I added an extra brace.

michael_w

semi-finished the box design on autocad... sorry about the wireframe. I only started autocad in 3d three days ago and have yet to work out the shading yet

Picture One
Picture Two

Hopefully I'll start building soon (and the damn driver will get here hehe). Need to still decide on any extra internal bracing I might add, what do I cover the box with and how high to make the little feet for this massive thing.