power wires question..

SamSagaZ

hey guys, can someone help me to wire the car?


i mean i have an battery with an Connector that has separate 4 outputs
1 x 0 Gauge
1 x 4 Gauge
2 x 8 Gauge.


i have an distribuitor block too that accept two 0 or 4 Gauge Inputs and have four 8 Gauge outputs.

so i was thinking abt wire from the battery to the Distribuitor 0 Gauge to the Capacitor and from the capacitor to the Distribuitor and connect each Amp from the Distribuitor. and Maybe add some neons or something else and connect it from the distribuitor too.

what do you think?



the actual connection after measure it with an caliber is something like

+ Battery
1 x 12 AWG
1 x 10 AWG
2 x 08 AWG


- Battery
1 x 08 AWG
1 x 10 AWG


maybe i need another distribuitor and put it close to the battery, right?


hope someone can help me.

neomagus00

hmm... i would run 0 gauge from the battery back to the d-block (trusting the battery terminal to accept what it says it will), then run 8-gauge into the main amp, and 4 gauge to the sub amp (interrupted, of course, by the capacitor, as close as possible to the amp). ignore the 'input' and 'output' labels. ground can go to the car body... every ground goes to the same point, note. if you're more adventurous, you can run all grounds to a d-block and run that straight back to the battery's (-). this eliminates the possibility of a ground loop, but it does mean you're running 0 gauge to the (-) terminal, too.

you can then run accessories off the d-block as you wish...

oh, if you have more than one sub amp or you want the capacitor to feed all amps, there's a way to set it up to do that... if you share your exact setup it'd be helpful...

TrappedUnder Ice

thats easy...Just dump the cap...cause ya dont need it...then hook the battery too the distro...then split out to each amp. problem solved!

Have fun...Thomas.:D

MacLeod

I agree with Trapped.

exalted512

it still makes me laugh that the only time thomas posts is when saying someone needs to get rid of their cap. i think he has stock in interstate or something;)
-Cody

MacLeod

LOL!!

Ive noticed that too!

Everybody has their cause I guess.

TrappedUnder Ice

Caps are one of my pet peves'

So many folks go too so much trouble for something that someone tells them they need...but dont! I chime in on other stuff...but by the time I get too the boards...most times- there are 9-10 posts...so why bother. If I cant offer any thing more then whats said...then I keep my TRAPP shut ...hehe

neomagus00

HAHA you're so funny... :rolleyes:

but where did sam go?? this is, after all, his thread...

MacLeod

I was at Best Buy last year sometime when I was considering the new Punch amp from RF and the sales dude who actually was quite knowledgable insisted I needed a cap to go with my 75x2 and 300x1 amps!

I didnt want to argue so I just told him my Ram had a 136 amp alternator which would be plenty but he still tried his best to convince me I needed one.

I wonder how many hapless Best Buy victims are driving around out there running a cap with nothing more than a head unit?

SamSagaZ

hey guys, i back i was fishing.... 4 days travelling and im back again


well, so i will drop the cap

and the distro and the battery terminal are ok, right?

0 AWG to the distro located in the trunk and there from the distro to the Amps and its done ?

Thanks

SamSagaZ

3 RCA of 15 feet each one are ok, right?

to connect the Sub/Woofer/High out of the stereo to the amps

neomagus00

if you're not using the crossovers on the HU; if you're not doing anything special to any of those three bands (like special eq for just the midrange, for instance)... if you're not doing any of that, you can just run one RCA to an amp, then a much shorter (cheaper) RCA from the preout of that amp to your second/third/etc. amps...

you'll want to check the specs for your amps (if they have preouts!) to make sure there's no xovering or anything happening to the signal...

just a way to save some money; but, failing all that, yes, 3 RCAs is good. 15 feet may be too much, and it could possibly be too little, so what i do is take a string, run it exactly where the RCA is going to run, and then round up to the nearest size RCA offered... this gets you a long-enough cable without getting too much.

and yes, your wiring scheme in your previous post is good.

SamSagaZ

this will make me crazy


so i have 3 ways of equalize all the suff, the HU (the dsp), The Speakers X-over, and the amp Xover :S

i think that the best choise is equalizate it with the HU, right?

ill use a pair of mm2124, and an C500.1 to move it.

and pair of mmc6500 moved with an c400.4

ill biamp the mmcs.


so the best choice is use just an pair of RCA one fom HU to c500, another from HU to c400 or, use two from HU to C400? is that possible? c400 have 2 inputs? or just one?

neomagus00

be careful with 'equalise' versus 'cross-over', they're two different processes.

this is what i would do: run a single high-quality RCA from HU to the 400.4; you will need a pair of y-adaptors (very cheap) to split the signal at the end - see the manual for details. from the 400.4's preout, you will need another pair of y-adaptors, then a single, short, much cheaper RCA (doesn't need to be high-quality, average is fine) from there to the 500.1's input.

then hook up the rest, following the appropriate 400.4 diagram for bi-amping (you will not need the speaker's xover), and use the crossovers on both amps (say 80 Hz for both, highpass for the 400.4 and lowpass for the 500.1; you'll probably need to play with this setting a bit). then set your gains. then equalise/shape using the headunit.

SamSagaZ

well, my HU have 3 High Volt PreOuts (6.5V) each one.

Subwoofer, High, Mid

and have an DSP too.

so i just need to use the MID and Subwoofer outputs?

ill try to get an 400.4 manual online so i can see wich inputs it have

neomagus00

what does the DSP do? there are many many many kinds of dsp, be specific .

and no, you'll only use the mid output the way i've outlined it.

SamSagaZ

i was saying wrong things


are not mid/high/subwoofer outputs ::)

the outputs are Front/Rear/Sub

Features:

---

Color Dot-Matrix OEL (Organic EL) Display
CD-R/RW playback
MP3 Playback with ID3 Tag*
WMA (Windows Media Audio) Playback with WMA Tag*
WAV file Playback*
BMX (Bitmetric Equalizer)
Burr Brown D/A Converter
PC-Link (OEL Screensaver Studio) ready
Builtin DSP:
5-Mode Preset Equalizer
2-Mode Custom Preset Equalizer
Auto EQ
BBE Digital Sound Processing
Digital Listening Position Selector
Auto Time Alignment
Digital 13-Band Equalizer
2-Way Crossover: HPS (F/R sepaarated)/LPF
3-Way Digital Network
ASL (Auto SOund Levelizer)
Auto-Slide Face
Rotary Commander
High-Voltage Preout (6.5V)
3 RCA Preouts: front + rear + subwoofer
Level Indicator
Spectrum Analyzer
Supertuner IIID
Multi-CD Control


Audio Features:

---

13-band digital graphic equalizer
Preset Equalizer (5 settings), Custom x 2 settings
Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment (mic. supplied)
BBE digital signal enhancement
Digital LPS (Listening position Selector)
HPF (High Pass Filter) and LPF (subwoofer) -F/R Selectable
Subwoofer Phase Selection (+/-)
Selectable Loudness Control
BMX (BiMetric Equalizer)
ASL (Auto Sound Levelizer)
Electronic Volume / Balance / Fader controls
3 x RCA Preouts (Front, Rear and subwoofer)
6.5 Volts RCA Preout Level
3-Way Digital Network selectable
Spectrum Analyzer
Level Indicator
Cellular Mute / Attenuate
SLA (Source Level Adjuster)
AUX IN capable via CD-RB20 or CD-RB10



i found an nice picture with the characteristics too...

please take a look..


http://www.glodokshop.com/AV/media/image/pioneer/pioneer_dehp8650/pioneer_dehp8650.html



and thanks for all your help

SamSagaZ

what do you think MacLeod ?

MacLeod

I think anything worth doing is worth doing right.

Run 3 sets of RCA's from your head unit to your amps. 20' will be enough length to do virtually any car. You dont have to buy $300 sets of RCA's. Hell Im running Monster Standard RCA's that are shielded and go for $14 for 20'!! Also check out KnuKonceptz for some great wire at really good prices.

Everything else looks good.

SamSagaZ

ok, nice to read your words... you are my master

neomagus00

i didn't know mac was into b&d...

SamSagaZ

b&d?

what is that?

neomagus00

ahh... this wikipedia article should tell you more than you ever wanted to know...

and i was completely NOT serious, by the way... it was much funnier when i typed it

SamSagaZ

lol, thats was funny

well i just try to say that i learned a lot from he.. thats all

MacLeod

LMFAO!!!

Whos ya daddy?!

SamSagaZ

having problems to connect the battery conector with the original wires that the car have....

this is the conector.


and in the original wires are like, two 3-4 awg and 2 8 awg... so can i connect the two 3-4awg to the 0awg of the conector ( 2 wires in one slot) and the anothers to the 8awg and the free slot (4awg) connect it to the distribution block?



my english rules, hope someone understand me

MacLeod

Lets see if I understand ya. You have 4 wires running from your battery's positive terminal originally?

SamSagaZ

yes

2 that fit into the 8AWG (i think) and 2 that not fit into the 4awg

ill take an pic BRB

SamSagaZ

its the negative conector, just 2 wires, so no problem...




and its the Positive




4 wires....

i think that the 2 at top will fit into the 8awg holes.

MacLeod

I think the best thing you can do is not mess with the OEM wires.

Get a ring terminal and slid that onto the terminal and put the stock connector back on. This way everything still stays solid.

It may not be as pretty as your connector but it will be easier to deal with and be more reliable.

But thats just me. Im lazy!

SamSagaZ

damn i already buy the connectors, btw, have u any picture abt what you are talking abt?