confused noob wanting mm2104

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited March 2005 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hi I'm a huge noob and i've wanted subs for 2 years and i've finally had time and money to buy some... I just turned 16 and i wanted to buy subs for my 95 honda accord lx, yea its a ghetto car, but its what i can afford. I'm gonna go ahead and admit i know almost nothing about subs... My friend just told me 2 get these subs cause they own so very much. I had a couple of questions tho so here they r...

1. Should i get 10"s or 12"s?
2. How many subs should I get?
3. Do i necesarrily need new speakers also?
4. How important is it that the brand of the Amp matches with the brand of the subs?
5. Is it better to get a Carbon 500 with 1 channel, or would i rather want another amp with 250 watts with 2 channels, or are they basically the exact same?
6. What are some possible amps I should be looking at for my 1-2 subs if im lookin to spend around $300-500 on the amp's retailed price?
7. If money is an issue, is it worth getting a nice alpine head unit, or can i just stick with my ghetto mp3 head unit (im not sure which brand, i hafta look sometime)

I know its a lot, but could some1 please help me with as much as possible? thanks
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Post edited by Unknown User on

Comments

  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited March 2005
    Welcome to the Club.

    1- 10's are more musical in my opinion and 12's can get a little louder as they can move more air. I would use 10's if theyre going to be in the car with you as in the back of a hatchback if you want sound quality or 12's for maximum boom. If youre putting them in the trunk then I would go with 12's for both SQ and SPL.

    2- Depends. 1 sub getting 1000 watts will be as loud and sound virtually the same as 4 subs getting 250 watts. Personally I prefer a single sub. Theyre easier to install and take up less room. Plus Id rather spend $1000 on one badass, rules them all sub than $250 each for 4 pretty good subs.

    3- Only if you want good sound. Your stock speakers suck. Check out the Polk DB and Momo line. They pretty much rule.

    4- Not at all. A watt is a watt. Pick the sub that best suits your needs then pick the amp that best matches the subs power requirements. As long as youre looking at major name brands (MTX, Kicker, Xtant, Hifonics) they will all be very well made and make good clean power.

    5- The 500.1 is a mono amp which means it has only one channel and is meant to drive subs. It is the same power wise as a stereo amp capable of 250x2. A watt is a watt. You would use the 500.1 for 2 subs or for a single sub with dual voice coils. If youre going to get a single sub with a single voice coil, a stereo amp would be a better choice.

    6- Go
    here and look around. MTX, Kicker, Xtant, Coustic, Hifonics and of course Polk Audio make excellent amps. Pick the one that matches your budget and power requirements.

    7- Yes! Get a quality aftermarket head unit. Im an Alpine man myself but Pioneer makes outstanding units as does Sony and Kenwood. Good head units can be had for as little as $100 with free installation so there is no reason no to get one.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by MacLeod
    Welcome to the Club.

    1- 10's are more musical in my opinion and 12's can get a little louder as they can move more air. I would use 10's if theyre going to be in the car with you as in the back of a hatchback if you want sound quality or 12's for maximum boom. If youre putting them in the trunk then I would go with 12's for both SQ and SPL.

    2- Depends. 1 sub getting 1000 watts will be as loud and sound virtually the same as 4 subs getting 250 watts. Personally I prefer a single sub. Theyre easier to install and take up less room. Plus Id rather spend $1000 on one badass, rules them all sub than $250 each for 4 pretty good subs.

    3- Only if you want good sound. Your stock speakers suck. Check out the Polk DB and Momo line. They pretty much rule.

    4- Not at all. A watt is a watt. Pick the sub that best suits your needs then pick the amp that best matches the subs power requirements. As long as youre looking at major name brands (MTX, Kicker, Xtant, Hifonics) they will all be very well made and make good clean power.

    5- The 500.1 is a mono amp which means it has only one channel and is meant to drive subs. It is the same power wise as a stereo amp capable of 250x2. A watt is a watt. You would use the 500.1 for 2 subs or for a single sub with dual voice coils. If youre going to get a single sub with a single voice coil, a stereo amp would be a better choice.

    6- Go
    here and look around. MTX, Kicker, Xtant, Coustic, Hifonics and of course Polk Audio make excellent amps. Pick the one that matches your budget and power requirements.

    7- Yes! Get a quality aftermarket head unit. Im an Alpine man myself but Pioneer makes outstanding units as does Sony and Kenwood. Good head units can be had for as little as $100 with free installation so there is no reason no to get one.


    First, thanks for the quick response...

    I have a Coupe, would it be possible for me to put them into the back, but not into the trunk, because my friend has a 97 civic coupe and he put his subs in his trunk, and personally i think they didn't sound loud enough... I'd rather have my sub(s) in the back. If that's possible, then I think i'll stick with 1 polk momo 10".

    So i think i'll stick with 1 10" sub... But im still kinda confused with the watts n stuff... The sub is 300 watt n 600 peak i think, n the amp is 500.1, how do i know when the power from the amp is TOO much so that it won't damage or blow the subs? u said if im gonna get 1 sub, i should get a amp with "dual voice coils" wuts that? And if its single voice coils i should just get a stereo amp? i dunno if its dual or single.

    I dont think im gonna quite get some speakers for my car just yet, maybe after i get a job or somethin i'll look into it.

    I DO however think i'll get a alpine... my friend made a huge deal about gettin an alpine, n i didnt think it wood be such a big deal, but i guess so so yea i think im gonna get an alpine head unit... if im gonna spend at least 100 bux, i mite as well spend 50 more for a nice alpine
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Ok well i was thinkin since i last posted, and then i was like "wait a minute, i listen 2 rap... maybe i DO want the 12"s?" crap im confusin the crap outta myself and u prolly..." I listen 2 rap n i want my car 2 bump realll loud n stuff but i just dunno whether i should put them in my trunk or back
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited March 2005
    You can put them in the back but then youd lose your back seats. The trunk will be fine if properly powered.

    The RMS rating is the one you want to be concerned with. Peak is pretty much meaningless. If the sub is rated at 300 RMS then youll want an amp that puts out no more than 300 watts RMS.

    You can get 2 12's and stick them in your trunk and power them with the C500.1. That amp puts out a little over 600 watts so that would be pretty healthy.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    well, in a regular car, the only way to not put subs in the trunk is to stick em on the back seat :). two good 12s in the trunk will be louder than you'll ever reasonably need. since you listen to rap, i'd definately reccommend you go with dual 12s. if you get good ones, they'll be just as musical as 10s and will reach lower and got louder than the equivalent 10s.

    mac made this very clear, and i'll reinforce it, but the brand of amp you get doesn't have to match the sub; in fact, it rarely does.

    how much are you looking to spend total? i know you said 3-500 for the amp, and if you buy online (you can get amazing prices online and still get a warranty, there's no reason not to), you can get damn fine equipment for that price.

    oh, and on voice coils - subwoofers have voice coils, not amps. single voice coil (SVC) subs are generally the same as dual voice coil (DVC) subs (polk DVCs are an exception, we think), DVCs just offer more wiring options. we can tell you which you'll need and why once your amp and sub combo has been decided.

    lastly, congrats on the decision to get a new deck, it makes a dramatic difference in the sound.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by neomagus00
    how much are you looking to spend total? i know you said 3-500 for the amp, and if you buy online (you can get amazing prices online and still get a warranty, there's no reason not to), you can get damn fine equipment for that price.

    Well, to tell the truth, I can get the hookups at Fry's... my dad works there n can get some damn good prices for them...
    (do i need a cap???)
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Hopefully my last dillema, i was wondering do i need a cap? i've read in a bunch of articles it is not needed at all but my friend keeps saying over n over again U NEED A CAP!!!! i drive a honda accord 95 lx n im prolly gonna get 2 polk momo 12" with a carbon 500.. do i need a cap or not?
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  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited March 2005
    get a red top, its a much better investment than a cap
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by exalted512
    get a red top, its a much better investment than a cap
    -Cody

    :-/ wuts a red top... lol
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  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited March 2005
    optima red top(battery to replace your cars current battery)
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    o heh thanks yea i'll look into that, thanks.

    Wiring... I'd like to know what brand i should buy for my wiring of the carbon 500 and 2 10" polk momos and i think i need the 4 gauge, n i've been told 2 get the streetwires 4 gauge set. What do u say?
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  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited March 2005
    if you want to buy a kit, dont go with anyone else but www.knukonceptz.com
    if you want to buy things seperate
    knukonceptz power wire
    stinger pro series speaker wire(www.sounddomain.com)
    street wires RCAs(the ZN series, get the most expensive set you can afford)
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    im just gonna stick with the kit 2 make it easier... which exact kit should i choose???
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited March 2005
    You DONT need a cap.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    this amp kit, plus these rcas, and however many feet of this speaker wire you need. (i know you can get this discounted, these are just so you know what to get :))

    the equipment is not the top of the line, but these are subs, you won't be able to tell.

    and as mac insists, you probably don't need a cap for this install. wouldn't hurt, if you can get it cheaply.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by neomagus00
    this amp kit, plus these rcas, and however many feet of this speaker wire you need. (i know you can get this discounted, these are just so you know what to get :))

    haha thanks. I can afford the 45 cents for the speaker wire lol, not that poor :). i saw this kit though and i was wondering if this would be all riight instead of the kit u said because its tons cheaper... if the sound quality on the kit u said would be better then i guess i'll spend the extra cash on it, if not i'd rather save money. I'll prolly order the rcas u said cause thats not 2 expensive... is there anything else i need for my system? I've got the 2 10"s polk momos SVC, a carbon 500 amp, rca, kit, speaker wiring, and head unit (maybe the red top later). what am i missing?
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    oh yea... and do i WANT DVC or SVC? because i noticed they were the same price
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    good point. go with that knu kit, only you'll need a run of remote turn on wire (pennies). the SQ wont be a bit different, it's just basic wire.

    and as long as you have a reciever mounting kit and wiring harness (any shop should carry a bajillion of these), you should be set.

    you want SVC. there appear to be two ways to set it up, and they should have identical results, but try em both (when you look at the suggested wiring diagrams in the 500.1 manual you'll see what i mean).

    honestly, though, whose brilliant idea was it to put 2 outputs on a monoblock amp and then not explain how they work? i consider myself fairly proficient at this, and it's confusing the hell outta me!
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by neomagus00
    only you'll need a run of remote turn on wire (pennies).
    wow thanks im almost done, and im actually learnin something... I've pretty much got everything that i need, but one thing is still bothering since my first post. Do i want 12's or 10's, im still realllly confused which 1 2 get. i've heard 10's sound quality is much better and its good for just nice clean music, but if u really wanna get jammin i've heard 12's r for me, n they hit so freakin hard too... i've read in a lot of forums n reviews, and after all this researching for 10's, im startin 2 fall for 12s... :-/ Not quite sure what i want now. if i DID get 12's, i wouldnt really want a carbon 500 would i? Whats a good range i'd wanna push to each sub with out damaging the sub, but gettin the most out of it? i've read in some reviews, some ppl push 1000 watts, isnt that dangerous? some other ppl push a measly 250 watts with the carbon 500 and i think thats a waste so i dont think i wanna do that... i need an opinion on whether 2 get 10's or 12's...
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    for the mm series of subs, the only reason to get 10s is to save space or cash. go with 12s, you'll be happier and they'll sound crazy good. you will want 800 watts to the pair, so an amp that makes 800 at 1,2, or 4 ohms is good. say, this amp? it's listed as 700 watts @ 2 ohms, but it'll probably put out a bit more, and that's good. you want the SVC (not DVC) version of the mm2124 to go with that amp, and you'd wire them in parallel.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • AustinKP
    AustinKP Posts: 861
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by Manuj
    i've heard 10's sound quality is much better and its good for just nice clean music, but if u really wanna get jammin i've heard 12's r for me, n they hit so freakin hard too...
    This is a generality that is sadly extended to all subs. Quality 12" subs can be punchy like 10's or dig down deep like 15's depending on how you install them. Saying that all 10 inchers are cleaner than all 12 inchers is ignorant at best. I just got a 12" sub that is just as accurate as a 10", but it will hit dang low too. I have been VERY impressed.

    If you have 500 watts, I'd highly recommend two of these. 250 watts to each would be just about right. Put them in about 1.5 ft^3 each and they'll be very clean and accurate, but will dig down deep and get loud as well.

    -Austin
    http://www.silverdragon.com/punkie/cybertusk/net.idiot.html - Read it, know it

    Alpine 9815
    Polk MM6's in custom fiberglass door pods
    Ascendant Audio Atlas 12
    HiFonics Zeus ZX6400 - 85x2 + 350x1
    2 Gallons SecondSkin Spectrum V.2
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    hey austin, you need to update your sig :D
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    Ohms... what are ohms lol i've read them a lot when i c subs n amps, and u say use the 700 watts w/ 2 ohms and wire it up parallel... but the sub says "nominal impedence = 4 ohms" does that mean anything? Do i want more or less ohms? what are ohms? haha i need an explination on ohms
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  • AustinKP
    AustinKP Posts: 861
    edited March 2005
    Ohms are a measurement of resistance. Most subs are designed for a 4 or 2 ohm resistance. If you cut your resistance to electrical flow in half, a well-designed amp will generally be able to put out twice as much power. Thus, an amp will do like 250x1 @ 4 ohms and 500x1 @ 2 ohms. Make sense?
    -Austin
    http://www.silverdragon.com/punkie/cybertusk/net.idiot.html - Read it, know it

    Alpine 9815
    Polk MM6's in custom fiberglass door pods
    Ascendant Audio Atlas 12
    HiFonics Zeus ZX6400 - 85x2 + 350x1
    2 Gallons SecondSkin Spectrum V.2
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2005
    thanks. i think i got the knack of it now. i searched on outpost.com for that hifonics amp and found url]http://shop1.outpost.com/product/4222474#detailed[/urlthis[/URL] . but the watts seem 2 be all different so i was just checking to see if this is what i needed. i dont think its right, but the price is so cheap, i hafta make sure this is the wrong amp.. :)
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited March 2005
    that should do you just fine. this walks you through setting the gains, which will be very important, because you WILL blow your subs with that amp if you set it up wrong. if you set it up right, though, it should sound sweet.

    let me confirm that it's for 2 12" mm2124 SVC subs... that is what you're getting, yes?
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs