4 and 8 ohms speakers

vnt69
vnt69 Posts: 9
edited March 2005 in Speakers
Any ideas why manufacturers design 2,4,6,8 ohm speakers? Beside the fact that the lower the ohm (less resistant) the more current needed to drive it, thus bigger amp.
Take 4 and 8 ohm speakers. Is it true that high end speakers are 4 ohm and mainstream are 8? Is 4 sounds a bit better or harder to make or many other reasons? Just curious.
Post edited by vnt69 on

Comments

  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited March 2005
    The resistance value of a speaker really doesn't indicate the quality of the speaker. The deciding factor is the end result that strikes your ear. Don't get to hung up on spec's, even effeciency doesn't have anything to do with sound quality.
    9/11 - WE WILL NEVER FORGET!! (<---<<click)
    2005-06 Club Polk Football Pool Champion!! :D
  • chenj16
    chenj16 Posts: 148
    edited March 2005
    if 4ohm and 8ohms doesn't matter, so why bother making lower ohms speakers that needs extra current to drive them, no any reason?
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,056
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by Frank Z
    The resistance value of a speaker really doesn't indicate the quality of the speaker. The deciding factor is the end result that strikes your ear. Don't get to hung up on spec's, even effeciency doesn't have anything to do with sound quality.

    Frank is right I have some crappy yamaha speakers (wich are going up to the cottage) that are 6 and there is now way in hell they are better than my polks
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,776
    edited March 2005
    I know of a few 90,000 dollar 8 ohm speakers :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • vnt69
    vnt69 Posts: 9
    edited March 2005
    I am not talking about spec or comparing any number. Only about the technical advantages, disadvantages and reasons why they make them 2 - 8.
  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited March 2005
    There's no concrete answer. The speaker design requirements will dictate the appropriate drivers.
    9/11 - WE WILL NEVER FORGET!! (<---<<click)
    2005-06 Club Polk Football Pool Champion!! :D
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited March 2005
    I'm not a driver designer, but I do know that if you're comparing individual drivers, there's really no such thing as an 8 Ohm driver's "4 Ohm twin". Often a manufacturer will produce drivers of the same general construction in 4 and 8 Ohm versions, but changing the impedance of the coil results in significant changes in many other driver parameters, such that the two drivers really end up being quite different.

    Now as for why they would design a driver with a 4 Ohm coil vs. and 8 Ohm coil: I can't answer that. I can only imagine that it somehow figures into the overall design-goal scheme. Perhaps they opt for a lower impedance VC in order to acheive lower inductance, higher voltage sensitivity, different electrical damping characteristics, etc..

    The impedance of a speaker system depends on the impedance of the individual drivers and how they interact with each other through the crossover design. Different crossover designs often produce drastic changes in the impedance curve of the system, but the impedance is usually a secondary consideration, with the overall frequency response taking priority.

    One other thing that should be considered is that often the 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm "rating" of a speaker system is not an accurate representation of the speaker system's actual impedance. I posted a comparison of the 4 Ohm LSi7's impedance curve and that of the "compatible with 8 Ohm outputs" RT3, in a thread a while back. Here's a link. If you take a look at that, you'll see that the RT3 could be just as easily called a 4 Ohm speaker. It's actually lower, overall, than the LSi7. This is just one example, and it's not just Polk that does it. Nominal impedance of a speaker system is not so much a "spec" as it is a general comment on how difficult a speaker is to drive. I think it's sometimes mis-stated a bit, maybe for marketing reasons. Bottom line is I'd use it (the impedance) as a guide when pairing a set of speakers with an amp, because that's really how the speaker manufacturer intended for it to work.

    Jason
  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by chenj16
    if 4ohm and 8ohms doesn't matter, so why bother making lower ohms speakers that needs extra current to drive them, no any reason?

    Depends on the drivers, cabinet, design, etc. A designer may come up with something that sounds great but because of the drivers, design, etc chosen, the speaker may be 4 Ohms nominal. On the other hand, another designer may have something that sounds just as good at 8 Ohms nominal because his design and parts are different.

    Maurice
  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited March 2005
    As stated above, it is not the design of the speaker over all, but the design of the drivers that dictate the Ohm load. For instance, a lot of softer dome tweeters, or even ring radiators such as the LSi's, have 4 Ohm impedance ratings, because of the amount of power it takes to drive them adequately. As you might have noticed, these types of tweets tend to have a softer, more musical quality than a titanium tweeter, which is almost always brighter and more dominant. Not to say titanium tweets don't sound good, it's just that they have a different sound.

    When it comes to speakers, they all operate at different impedance levels depending on the source-sound reproduction ocurrs at many different impedance levels, but some speakers operate at a lower impedance on a more consistent basis.

    All in all, though, a 4 Ohm impedance really means that you shouldn't even think about running such a speaker with a run-of-the-mill amp, or a $500 Onkyo receiver, as they just aren't meant to drive speakers of that quality.

    Whether you have a 4, 6 or 8 Ohm speaker, however, they all sound better with a great amp. The more juice you feed them, the better they'll sound. Once you go high end, you won't go back.
    Current System:

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  • 2+2
    2+2 Posts: 546
    edited March 2005
    Jason, thanks for your insight...your link was very interesting....
    System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

    System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

    System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

    System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD