How do I determine the right subwoofer size for me?

...if I'm not sure what size room I'll be living in =)

Probably not very smart, but how do I qualify my needs exactly?

Here's my setup so far...
Polk RTi8 (front)
Polk RTi6 (back)
Polk CSi5 (center)

I was thinking I can probably afford the HSU STF-2 (10"), however I don't want to regret not having bought the STF-3 (12") down the road.

Does the subwoofer size affect the type of sound you're getting? Or is it completely based on the size of the room you need to power?

Thanks!
Post edited by Laura Palmer on

Comments

  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2005
    You should have a really, really big subwoofer.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited March 2005
    Yeah, one that really POUNDS.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • maggiefan
    maggiefan Posts: 223
    edited March 2005
    Laura, you might send an e mail to SVS and give them your room size and listening preferances and they will recommend something that will work well for you. I understand they are very good at this and will not try and sell you something that is beyond what you need, they have even recommended other brands to people. Even if you do not want to buy one of their subs, you will get an idea of the size and amp power you need to do it right.
    Larry
  • Laura Palmer
    Laura Palmer Posts: 124
    edited March 2005
    Thank you for the suggestion; I will not count out SVS, I'm going to look into them more.

    In the meantime, I've been seriously considering HSU considering there's a dealer in Canada whereas I think I would have to import and pay shipping/duty for an SVS sub.

    I was looking at the comparison charts for the STF-1, STF-2, and STF-3 and asside from wattage, it seems the only difference is that the STF-3 has "Line Level Low Pass For 2 Channel Systems" whereas the STF-2 and STF-1 do not.

    As for wattage, if I'm using my Pioneer VSX-1014TX-K it only pushes out 120watts per channel I believe, so technically an 8" subwoofer should be all I can handle anyway since it's 150 Watts. The 10" and 12" are 200 Watts and 250 Watts, respectively.

    Any advice on wattage if my receiver is only 120 Watts?
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2005
    I would go HSU in your case simply because it's high quality and as you mentioned....on your side of the border. Screw SVS since you're in Canada.

    EDIT: It appears that this may not be true, so get your SVS groove on.

    My point was, go big or don't go at all. It will not be worth the hassle to find out later that you should have bought the larger subwoofer.

    If you live in something other than your own home, perhaps size would be a factor, otherwise step it up.

    The AVR's power rating has nothing to do with an active subwoofer, since they are internally amplified. While Sunfire is a fine example of what can be done with a very small subwoofer....they are the exception. Step into the 12" bracket in the HSU.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,646
    edited March 2005
    As mentioned in this thread...

    Get the BIIGGGGGEST...BADDDEST sub you can afford...

    You can ALWAYS turn one down...but theres only so much you can turn it up...

    You're definetely going to want a sub that can hit to 20hz or lower...

    It just really fills in better and adds some experience you just wouldnt normally get. IMO
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • maggiefan
    maggiefan Posts: 223
    edited March 2005
    I didn't know you were in Canada. Maybe the HSU would be a better one for you. Maybe they can recommend a model that would work for you. From what I've read they are also a well respected brand.
    Larry
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited March 2005
    I would say get the HSU 12 that way you won't have any regrets. And since it runs on it's own amplifier you don't have to worry about putting any stress on your receiver.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Laura Palmer
    Laura Palmer Posts: 124
    edited March 2005
    Oh I should also mention that for my sub, I'm more concerned with music than films.

    Is the VTF series more musical than the STF? Or the other way around maybe?

    Does woofer size matter for music all the same?
    Thanks!

    I'm looking at that Home Digital AV dealer from Toronto, and I think they're STF-2 sub for $549 is a reasonable amount to me, but does anyone know if they're negotiable at all? Hi-Fidelity.com says that is the Canadian MSRP... I can't remember the last time I've paid MSRP price before, but then again I've never ordered speakers like these really. Should I bother asking my boyfriend to barder with the store?
  • jdhdiggs
    jdhdiggs Posts: 4,305
    edited March 2005
    I would go for the biggest sub you feel comfortable spending money on. Notice I didn't say the biggest one you can afford...

    If you feel that the most you would ever spend on a sub is say $800, but you only have $400 to spend. Hold off until you have the $800 and then go shopping. Otherwise you will be stuck in a permanent buyers remorse situation and not get your money back out on the used sub.

    Others will freak out about this, but the 8's will give you enough bass for now. And honestly, as long as you don't know what your missing, you won't miss it. Save up and get what you want, rather than settling just to get "something"

    My 2 cents... Glad you got the 8's ;)
    There is no genuine justice in any scheme of feeding and coddling the loafer whose only ponderable energies are devoted wholly to reproduction. Nine-tenths of the rights he bellows for are really privileges and he does nothing to deserve them. We not only acquired a vast population of morons, we have inculcated all morons, old or young, with the doctrine that the decent and industrious people of the country are bound to support them for all time.-Menkin
  • jmierzur
    jmierzur Posts: 489
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by dorokusai
    I would go HSU in your case simply because it's high quality and as you mentioned....on your side of the border. Screw SVS since you're in Canada.

    Wrong. :rolleyes: The retailer still pays the same border costs we pay. He may get a better deal on shipping as he would get a truck load at a time and may process the border papers himself saving the broker fees. Anyone can handle the border papers themselves and save the broker costs.

    I posted the actual costs of bringing a SVS PCU sub into Canada in your wild speaker thread. As I said in the other thread, they are made in North America and are under NAFTA.

    With the exchange rate, it is now cheaper us Canucks to get an HSU or SVS. Don't rule out any SVS options.
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2005
    Please excuse me for not knowing the exact cross border information for your country....I forgot about that thread Jmierzur, cool. I stand corrected.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Laura Palmer
    Laura Palmer Posts: 124
    edited March 2005
    I promise, I am going to look into SVS. I'm looking into everything =)

    I'm EVEN looking into Polk *again*.
    This time it's not the PSW505 or PSW12 though, I'm going to accept that they're not anywhere near the same league as the SVS or HSU subs...

    However.

    How do people feel about the NEW Polk sub coming out in July?
    The Polk PSW1000... that's a different league right? Does anyone think Polk may "win us back" with this one?

    http://www.polkaudio.com/home/products.php?category=7&speaker=418
  • TheReaper
    TheReaper Posts: 636
    edited March 2005
    Originally posted by Laura Palmer
    As for wattage, if I'm using my Pioneer VSX-1014TX-K it only pushes out 120watts per channel I believe, so technically an 8" subwoofer should be all I can handle anyway since it's 150 Watts. The 10" and 12" are 200 Watts and 250 Watts, respectively.
    I have always used this formula, to get a minimum/starting value of watts for the sub-woofer. If you like a lot of sub-woofer, go higher. Realize my formula is just a guestimate, and not founded in anything real.

    I add the watts for both of my main receiver channels (L/R) together, to get the minimum value for my sub-woofer. In your case, 120 + 120 = 240 watts minimum.

    Also, with the RTi8s, I would go with a 12" driver (10" minimum). While smaller drivers can be made to push the lower frequencies with larger excursions. I prefer the tonal qualities of larger drivers.
    Win7 Media Center -> Onkyo TXSR702 -> Polk Rti70
  • jdhdiggs
    jdhdiggs Posts: 4,305
    edited March 2005
    Power to volume is not the same at all frequencies. Doc or some of the other hard core sub guys will help correct the specifics if I screw them up.

    Assuming the sub and mains are the same efficiency, the following is the approximate power needed for the same volume (dB)

    1kHz- 1W
    500 Hz- 2W
    250 Hz- 4W
    125 Hz- 8W
    62.5 Hz- 16W
    31.3 Hz- 32W
    15 Hz- 64W

    Now realize that our hearing is less sensitve below 80 Hz so the volume generaly is hot below those levels. So a 30Hz signal would be say 9dB up from the 1khz signal. This would mean your needing 256W on the sub to keep up with 1 W from the receiver.

    If your receiver is truly capable of delivering 120W/Channel, you would have to be up in the IB, DIY, or >$3000 range before the x-overed receiver would give out before the sub. At this point you would be deaf so it really wouldn't matter.

    Just get as much sub as you feel comfortable in spending and you will be happy.
    There is no genuine justice in any scheme of feeding and coddling the loafer whose only ponderable energies are devoted wholly to reproduction. Nine-tenths of the rights he bellows for are really privileges and he does nothing to deserve them. We not only acquired a vast population of morons, we have inculcated all morons, old or young, with the doctrine that the decent and industrious people of the country are bound to support them for all time.-Menkin
  • lomic
    lomic Posts: 407
    edited March 2005
    I recently positioned my STF-2 about 3 feet behind the listening position just before we watched Master and Commander... gave me a new respect for the sub, I didn't think it could put out that much bass. In certain scenes, like the storm, I could tell that it had no headroom and was barely able to sustain its output - which is making me look at getting something a bit larger.

    I do still love it unconditionally for music though, and it's definitely my #1 recommedation for anyone who is doing mostly music and doesn't quite need the entire house to shake for movies.
    Dodd Audio ELP [ Tubes ] // Harman Kardon AVR330 // Parasound HCA-1203A // Denon DVD-2900
    Polk Audio LSi9, LSiC, LSi 7 // HSU STF-2 // Signal Cable Interconnects (SG BW/A2/MP)
  • kberg
    kberg Posts: 974
    edited March 2005
    I think the long and short of it is that you can't have "too much sub". Yes, you can have the sub "overly-cranked", but of course this is not what I'm talking about.
    Mains: polkaudio RTi70's (bi-wired)
    Center: polkaudio CSi40 (bi-wired)
    Surrounds: polkaudio FXi30's
    Rear Center: polkaudio CSi30
    Sub: SVS 20-39 PC+
    Receiver: ONKYO TX-SR600
    Display: JVC HD-56G786
    DVD Player: SONY DVP-CX985V
    DVD Player: OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI
    Remote: Logitech Harmony H688
  • rkn2903
    rkn2903 Posts: 13
    edited April 2005
    You should also go listen to the paradigm Pw 2200 .V2 it's a GREAT sub.
  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited April 2005
    Laura,
    I'm a little unsure why you're hung up on your reciever's 120W output. A sub has its own amplifier, which operates independently of your receiver's amp, so it doesn't really matter if it is 300 watts.
    Just use the line level (sub out) output on the back of your receiver and you're golden.

    As far as good subs go, here are a couple that would be good for a small to medium sized place (seem to remember you having mentioned you will be getting a smaller place at some point).

    SVS PB 10 ISD. $430 w/o shipping.
    This sub is very large, but moves a lot of air. For movies it pounds hard and deep (definitely not good if you live in an apartment). I like it for music as well. It is a little boomy, but still works well for most kinds of music. Especially classical.

    Martin Logan Grotto $600 (I think)
    This is a compact and sylish looking sub, w/ one 10" driver, but is rated down to 22 Hz. Its looks are deceiving, as it really puts out a lot more punch than you would expect for the size. It would be a good choice for movies, filling out the bass w/o being too overwhelming, and would be a superb choice for music, as it is very accurate and tight. See if you can find a local dealer to audition one.

    If you really want to go all out you might want to consider the new SVS PB 12 Ultra. Looks like a really nice sub, but at $1200, it's not cheap. This would be a great sub for movies and music, but would literally shake your whole house from the ground up if you wanted it to.

    Hope that helps. For a smaller place, the Grotto would be an excellent choice. For a midsized place, the PB 10, for a larger room, the PB 12 Ultra. Good luck.

    PS. I know there are Martin Logan dealers in Canada so crossin the border should not be an issue.
    Current System:

    Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
    Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
    CSi5-Center (for sale**)
    FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
    Martin Logan Depth-Sub
    B&K AVR 507
    Pimare CD21-CD Player
    Denon 1815-DVD Player
    Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner
  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited April 2005
    I'd just like to make a correction to my earlier post recommending the Martin Logan Grotto sub. I earlier stated it was around $600, but it is actually about $1000. I confused the Grotto's price w/ that of the ML Dynamo, their entry level sub. Also a kickass sub for the size and price, but the Grotto is better overall for movies and music. Still a deal at a grand.
    Current System:

    Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
    Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
    CSi5-Center (for sale**)
    FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
    Martin Logan Depth-Sub
    B&K AVR 507
    Pimare CD21-CD Player
    Denon 1815-DVD Player
    Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner