Show me your ****(embly), and let me get in your guts baby!
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Symphonic Line Klarheit II- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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VAC Standard LE with MM.integrated w/DAC module Gryphon Diablo 300
server Wolf Alpha 3SX
phono pre Dynamic Sounds Associates Phono II
turntable/tonearms Origin Live Sovereign Mk3 dual arm, Origin Live Enterprise Mk4, Origin Live Illustrious Mk3c
cartridges Miyajima Madake, Ortofon Windfeld Ti, Ortofon
speakers Rockport Mira II
cables Synergistic Research Cables, Gryphon VPI XLR, Sablon 2020 USB
rack Adona Eris 6dw
ultrasonic cleaner Degritter -
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Hello,
Here is a classic Moscode 600 hybrid tube solid state amplifier that I worked on. I replaced the coupling caps and critical audio path resistors, installed some new binding posts and RCA inputs. I replaced the power cord with an IEC type socket, re-tubed and set all the bias and DC offset and high voltage adjustments. I also painted the AC transformer and cleaned up all the chassis and circuitry.
Sounds great!
Enjoy, Ken -
Looks neat, Ken! The new caps are a plus!Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
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That's pretty cool passive there, Jake! I really like the way StereoKnights gets their passive done. Good POT, good wire and nice case. I always wanted to try their Magnetic Passive Pre one day.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
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Work in progress.
Drivers are ScanSpeak Air Circ 6620, Accuton C79, and SEAS W22NY. Crossover topology is still TBD. I'd like to give Duelund slopes(transient perfect) a try, but don't believe I'll have enough room inside for all the parts required, so I'll probably use LR 2nd order or something similar to Joseph Audio's infinite slope."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Wow! 3stacks of x 3/4" Birch Ply for the front baffle. Where's the ****(embly), dude?
It's empty now.
May be you woke up and thinking this is the DIY thread.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
Drivers are ScanSpeak Air Circ 6620, Accuton C79, and SEAS W22NY. Crossover topology is still TBD. I'd like to give Duelund slopes(transient perfect) a try, but don't believe I'll have enough room inside for all the parts required, so I'll probably use LR 2nd order or something similar to Joseph Audio's infinite slope.
That is my favorite dome tweeter, and I've heard nothing but good things about Accuton drivers. I can't wait to see how this project turns out. -
My new sub amp.400 watts of Hypex Class D powered by Hypex's 600watt switching supply.This will be replacing a toasted ICEmodule.
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Looking good... efficiency would be even higher with the wires hooked up, rather than using the Tesla method :-)
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mhardy6647 wrote: ».. efficiency would be even higher with the wires hooked up....
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you simply need a Flux Capacitor.
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What the flux?Where do I find one of those?
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My new to me Wright WPA 50-50Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
My brand new Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi universal disc player that I will be using exclusively for CD playback:
I see similarities to my new Elite PD-D9 SACD player. I will be posting some photos of that one soon.For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore... -
Can't wait to see it!
OK, Here is my new Pioneer Elite PD-D9-J SACD player. Impressive build quality for the price.
Before I got this unit, I wasn't sure whether these were gray, or a dull black brushed, but it is actually a gray brushed finish. With reflections, it takes on a silvery look. Top cover is also brushed alu.
Power supply is impressive in layout, design, and parts. Two large filter caps with a nice dampener ring around it. Twin R-core transformers are in a steel box. The whole power supply is separated from the Upsampling/DAC/Analog section by a steel divider.
The analog section is nice and simple. From the output of the twin Wolfson DACs, there is one thru hole op amp (which makes it easy to upgrade!) and some decent coupling caps (that are bypassed with a poly). The DAC/Analog section is loaded with OSCON, Nippon, and Rubycon caps. Nice Copper dividers between the analog section and the noisier digital sections of board.
Overall, I'm very happy with this unit. My only complaint is the lack of track advance buttons on the front face. The remote could be much nicer too, but I'll end up using my harmony.
For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore... -
My new find for my basement vintage rig,a Yammy CA-800.
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CA-800's a nice piece. Try it in Class A (just don't throw the "Class A" switch with the amp operating - it doesn't like that).
(I've never looked inside, since I bought this one already rehabilitated) -
I thought you might be familiar with it Mark,yours looks to be mint.I was given this one just today so have not yet lifted the hood.(The matching tuner will be joining it soon).It sounds better than I expected but I will need to take the Deoxit to the switches and replace the power on indicator(LED or bulb?).Any common issues with this model you are aware of?
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Vintage Yamaha and vintage Polk Audio go very well together.
The only issues I know of:
The aforementioned "class A" switch.
Dirty function switches.
Dirty "pre/mail" coupling switch.
You may find some CA-800 docs at: http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/ -
Thanks for the link,the sm may come in handy.As for the Class A switch it seems to be functioning fine but I will heed your warning.I'm assuming when switched to the A position bias is being increased and rail voltages reduced which I can't think doing on the fly would be good.I do find the variable loudness to actually be a useful feature for low level listening.
I'll be keeping an eye for some vintage monitor series Polks,EPI's or Burhoe acoustics. -
Nice Looking Vintage Yammy! At 10W rms (20W dynamic) in Class A, you could do well with a small bookshelves of moderate sensitivity in the basement.
I guess the Class A or Normal selection switch can be put in Class A permanently and weld it at that position to avoid any dirty little things inside from shooting smokes.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
I'll be keeping an eye for some vintage monitor series Polks,EPI's or Burhoe acoustics."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Or you could just build something else...
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Nothing wrong, of course, with building or buying new but... also nothing wrong with any of the vintage choices he mentioned (IMNSHO, of course) :-)
FWIW, my "new" speakers were made in 1964... well, the cabinets were made two months ago... but the drivers date to 1964.
A pair of ads L-710s would be dandy as well; they're really neutral and nonfatiguing, as well as "surprisingly sensitive".
Just sayin'...
EDIT: Face, them thingies you're working on are looking good, no doubt about that! No pesky cabinet resonances from them, I'll betcha. -
mhardy6647 wrote: »Nothing wrong, of course, with building or buying new but....
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