What is the best furniture oil to use on speakers?
I mean besides Armor all . lol
-Luc
-Luc
Post edited by trubluluc on
Comments
-
Water- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
....pepsi?Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3
Water -
-
...right up there with whale sperm in effectiveness.
But seriously does anyone have a favorite that has given good results?
-Luc -
motor oil :rolleyes:- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
-
Originally posted by trubluluc
I mean besides Armor all . lol
-Luc
You're talking about the cabinets, no? Pure lemon oil. A little dab 'l do ya'. -
Finally a non comedic response.
Yes for the wood cabinets.
Any brand better than the others?
-LucOriginally posted by BlueMDPicker
You're talking about the cabinets, no? Pure lemon oil. A little dab 'l do ya'. -
-water-
Unless your speakers or furniture is damaged or faded, WATER will do MORE than enough- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Well, if you have crap stuck on the from before from OTHER oil products then you will need a good cleaner to cut through it and remove it. Usually 409 or Fantastick will do a good job. Acetone will defintly work but it is harsh and may damage teh finish.
Honestly, NO OIL is good for wood. Water and regular dustings. If it gets funky, a mild cleaner or even some vinegar or alcohol will take off body oil that tends to build up on well used furniture without causing damage. Then again, if it's that thick, you aren't taking very good care of it. Otherwise, a damp sponge and something to dry it off with will work much better than any other cleaner provided you take care of it.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
A well rung out damp (water) cloth for regular dusting/cleaning is all you need. Furniture polish, especially Pledge is BS! Lemon oil is nothing more than mineral oil with a little lemon oil for scent, more BS! John is correct, acetone will damage most common furniture finishes, use paint thinner/mineral spirits to clean off years of crud. It's safe for all finishes, but will leave things kinda dull if you don't wipe it dry immediately.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
It depends. If the finish is vinyl covered MDF, then damp cloth with mild detergent followed by Black Magic protectant.
If it is real wood /veneer, use a good paste wax such as Minwax paste wax (it can be removed) Do not use spray waxes (silicone junk)
For new raw wood, I like to stain and use Olympic Antique oil finish.
Just my thoughts/experience>
>
>This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.< -
Why would you want to put Black Magic on vinyl covered anything? It's just about the same thing as Armor-All. It never really dries and attracts dust like crazy. I'm not clear if you're recommending Minwax for wood without a clear coat finish or not. Either way, I've found Minwax too soft for use on furniture. IF and I say IF one has to wax a piece of furniture or speakers then Renaissance Conservation wax would be the only one I'd recommend. I'd also recommend not to wax any piece of furniture more than once a year. Something like speakers, maybe once every 2 or 3 years tops. Personally, I don't wax anything in my house. As long as the finish is in good condition it doesn't need anything more than dusting. Wax is the weakest of all "finishes." It may lessen a glancing blow because it creates a slicker surface, but that's about it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by F1nut
[ It never really dries and attracts dust like crazy. [/B]
With any finish, a thin coat is always best. Sure, if you just spray it on and let it sit, you will end up with a sticky goo. Put some on a clean cloth and wipe a thin layer on, let it sit for 4/5 min. and then wipe it off. Never had an issue with dust. As for the wax, I was referring to applying to a finished surface, not raw wood. I would be very cautious of cleaning varnish with thinner/alcohol unless you want to remove more than the grime. IMO.>
>
>This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.< -
For the LSi group, or any piano black finish, I find that Martin guitar polish and micro fiber polishing cloth works really well to keep the finish as good as the day I bought them.
-
I aint putting no polish on any high gloss black finish...
You can REALLY eff it up, cake it up, cloud it up, thats nasty...
Windex and a dust free cloth is more than enough...- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
You're probably doing more harm than good using Windex on a fine finish such as piano black. If it's good enough for my 3k martin, I feel perfectly fine using it on my speakers.
Windex is meant for glass. Prolonged use on glass will have zero effect on glass because what ever chemicals used in windex can't etch into it. I have personally seen the effects of windex on the finish a guitar and chemicals slowly eat away the finish. It's not pretty and have never used it on any of my guitars or speakers and I never will. Just a general statement of mine: I do not recomend the use of Windex on any painted finish.
I've been using polish on my guitars for years. No it doesn't F it up. No it doesn't cake up and finally NO it doesn't fog up the finish in any way. I've used it on my LSi's and it's fine.
You should probably give it a try before you knock it. You see, I have actually used this product and know first hand that it is completely safe to use.
Just to let you know, Guitar polish is a bit different than furniture polish, you should read up. -
I have also seen etching from use of Windex.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
-
Originally posted by Polkersince85
I would be very cautious of cleaning varnish with thinner/alcohol unless you want to remove more than the grime. IMO.
Huh? I said to clean wax and crud build up, use paint thinner/mineral spirits, nothing about alcohol. Neither paint thinner or mineral spirits (which are basically the same thing) will harm ANY finish.
It's your furniture, speakers and guitars, so do what you want. However, it's my professional opinion that polishes of any nature are totally unnecessary, cause more problems than not and are a waste of good money.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I used Old English Lemon Oil on my $4k Monitor Audio speakers with great results - it acutally cleaned the wood and would dry out completely in one day. After a year wood never dulled.
I'm planning on using it today on the wood sides of my LSi's. I will look into Martin guitar polish sometime this week.
Kevin, where did you buy microfiber cloth?
It was suggested by somebody that 100% US made cotton cloth and Zino polish is the best for piano black finishes. I bought some quality cloth and used without the polish on LSi - they cleaned gloss finish really good without any scratches. -
Originally posted by F1nut
Huh? I said to clean wax and crud build up, use paint thinner/mineral spirits, nothing about alcohol. Neither paint thinner or mineral spirits (which are basically the same thing) will harm ANY finish.
It's your furniture, speakers and guitars, so do what you want. However, it's my professional opinion that polishes of any nature are totally unnecessary, cause more problems than not and are a waste of good money.
A more important general statement: Don't use paint thinner or mineral spirit to "clean" your speakers.
Polish is required. If you don't polish your car for five years and clean/keep it proper with "paint thinner" I will bet that my car looks 20X's better as far as finish is concerned.
Paint thinners are a base of the paint itself. Think about that for a second. " I just spent 5k on a paint job for my car. They used a thinner to mix the paint. I then use the same thinner to clean and polish the finish. = I completely ruined paint job."
Please don't use thinners/spirits to clean or do whatever to your speakers. -
Originally posted by newsman
I used Old English Lemon Oil on my $4k Monitor Audio speakers with great results - it acutally cleaned the wood and would dry out completely in one day. After a year wood never dulled.
I'm planning on using it today on the wood sides of my LSi's. I will look into Martin guitar polish sometime this week.
Kevin, where did you buy microfiber cloth?
It was suggested by somebody that 100% US made cotton cloth and Zino polish is the best for piano black finishes. I bought some quality cloth and used without the polish on LSi - they cleaned gloss finish really good without any scratches.
I bought my cloth at an auto store. I'll have to go back to get the brand name. It's really soft and is so fine that everything sticks to it, it will cling to the coarseness of you hands. Not statically, but physicaly. I use the same product to wax and polish my car with great results! -
Kevin,
First off, we are not talking about car finishes. Your comparision is off base, cars are subjected to harsh elements that a piece of furniture never would be. Why you decided to bring that matter into the mix is beyond me. However, since you brought it up let me set the record straight. Paint thinner can not dissolve a cured solvent-based finish. You can rub paint thinner on a car finish all day long and it won't do a damn thing to the finish!
In fact, you can rub paint thinner on any cured clear coat finish including lacquer, shellac, varnish, polyurethane or any other solvent-based finish and it won't harm or soften the finish, ever.
Second, with the advent of clear coat finishes (urethane or acrylic lacquer) for cars, a car finish that's not waxed for 5 years will still look great. I do, however recommend waxing one's car as it will help protect it from things like acid rain, which is not a concern inside one's house and is what we are really discussing here.
Third, I never avocated cleaning one's speakers or car, for that matter, with paint thinner. I mearly stated that to remove wax and crud build up from years of furniture polishes that using paint thinner is the best and safest way to do so.
Your lack of knowledge with finishing products is evident from your comments on this matter.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
To set the record straight, I said that alcohol can be used and I stand by my statement. Not all speakers are covered in a veneer but some are covered in a vinyl laminate that looks like wood. In those instances, paint thinner will harm the vinyl. In my experiences though, alcohol does not harm the vinyl and will take off grime from potted plants and such too.
Paint thinner on the vinyl will start to dissolve the glue as it soaks into the vinyl. The glue then gets drawn through the vinyl and makes the speaker sticky. Somebody did this to a set of EPI 100V's I have and they are annoyingly sticky because of it.
Also, Kevinvb11, you should quit now because you aren't even ahead at this point. You have been talking out of your **** since your first post in this thread and the only thing you have done is spread misinformation based off of experiences that have little to nothing to do with the topic at hand.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I use a half capful of Murphy's oil soap in a gallon of water. I ring the rag out very well. Works great on veneers that are not real wood.
I'm sure that straight water would be best for vinyl veneers, but I like the slight sheen that Murphy's provides, and has done no harm to any of my speakers over the years.
Piano black or high gloss finishes look best if you use a chamois with hot water, well rung out.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
I always choose the recommendations of those that work with wood and finishes professionally and have done so for many years, over any other "better" ideas.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
-
Originally posted by Jstas
Also, Kevinvb11, you should quit now because you aren't even ahead at this point. You have been talking out of your **** since your first post in this thread and the only thing you have done is spread misinformation based off of experiences that have little to nothing to do with the topic at hand.
Wow - take a cold shower or something. I personally happen to like Kevin's advise. But if you don't , there is no reason to get personal.
BTW. I tried Old English on LSi wood panels, and it didn't work out as good as on Monitor Audio. LSi veneer has no grain at all and feels like laminate. I was able to wax it and get some shine, but it doesn't have the same level of effect as with deep grooves of Monitor Audio venner. Gloss finish I wiped with water and cotton cloth only. I'll see about Martin polish. -
Newsman,
Sorry, but Jstas hit the nail on the head. Kevin doesn't know what he's talking about, is spreading misinformation and should cease. Furthermore, the sheen on the LSi wood section is suppose to be satin, it's not suppose to shine and the use of Old English is something I would highly discourage.
Steve's idea of using a chamois on a high gloss finish is excellent, however I'd want to think twice about the Murphy's Oil Soap as it's a vegetable oil base, nasty stuff.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by dorokusai
I always choose the recommendations of those that work with wood and finishes professionally and have done so for many years, over any other "better" ideas. -
Originally posted by F1nut
...I'd want to think twice about the Murphy's Oil Soap as it's a vegetable oil base, nasty stuff.
Noted; I'll ditch the Murphy's.
PS: Chamois are also great for plastic displays as well, they don't scratch and leave no streaks.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
Originally posted by Polkmaniac
Yep, I'd take Jesse's opinion over that of anyone else on this thread becuase I've seen pics of his work...he knows his ****More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD