Calling all Polk superstars I need help?

duane26 · January 2005

I know what I am about to say is an install thing but I would rather be knowledgeable about the subject. So after a professional install at the specialists in Tucson, Az I get in my car and meet up with a very cruel enemy, engine noise coming through my speakers! It only happen when I accelerate but it is trully annoying. I have a Honda civic Si which means I am always accelerating.I have no experience in car audio and hoped I had because I was trully let down when I listened to my setup, minus the subwoofer which is coming next week. Now the install guy had mentioned it when I picked up my car, but it was closing time so I told him I would get back to him on it. I know its interference and the install guy told me "they tried to use a filter to no avail and you can only hear it when the stero is turned down low". However I don't care I listen to sports radio everyonce in a whle and don't understand why I can't have great sound and no annoying sounds. I am not going to always have my system at high volumes. They also said it could be my amp MTX 684 , head unit, or what I think it is amp kit. Now my head unit never had this problem before, 1 month, premier deh 860. I got my amp kit at knukonceptz which was recomended on here. What do you guys think? I need some ammunition when I go back in. I don't want to rip my whole system out but I will because I have been waiting for to long for a system and when I finally pull the trigger HHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA! Thank- you for your time!

swerve · January 2005

are all your wires ran on one side of the vehicle?

eh

-adam

exalted512 · January 2005

def. take it back to the shop, that is unsatisfactory. they need to move the rcas around or move the ground to a different spot.
-Cody

swerve · January 2005

Tell them to shove it up their butts and do it yourself.

they just dont' want to fix what they did man.... i know the laziness of mankind all to well.

-adam

duane26 · January 2005

wow I like the replies I thought about the wires on one side but I'm no expert. I thought maybe amp kit, so I should just switch to maybe streetwires?I'm hoping it's not a defected amp?

swerve · January 2005

How about you try that wires on one side first or the ground first.

don't spend more than you have to.

-adam

[Deleted User] · January 2005

Also, is the amp mounted directly to the metal of the car? This can cause problems. Make sure the chassis of the amp is isolated from the metal of the car.

PolkThug · January 2005

Would a ground loop isolator help?

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cookie%5Ftest=1&catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_002_001_019_008&product_id=270-054

Jstas · January 2005

A ground loop isolator is just a band aid to cover up a problem. Fix the real problem.

exalted512 · January 2005

one thing you could do is if you have a set of home audio rcas that are long enough to run from the head unit to the amp, take out the headunit and hook those up, then run the rca over the seats directly to your amp. if that fixes the problem, your rcas are letting noise in, if not, then its most likely your ground
-Cody

duane26 · January 2005

Ok I did some looking and yes all the wires are running down the same side. Install place said that the rca cables are video shielded these days and that you can run all the wires down the same side, they actually told me that running the rca cables and amp cables down different sides of the car is a 3-4 year old myth, however I highly doubt that. The amp is installed in the trunk and I believe it is mounted to the trunk frame with carpet in between. In the end I have a feeling the problem is going to come down to one thing and that is laziness on the installers part.They did say they will be calling me back, we'll see.

spwuinmk67 · January 2005

RCA's are shielded, some to more extent then others. It does help though, I had an alt whine for a while, upgraded my rca's and moved them as well, and no problems. They may say it won't do anything, but it comes down to being able to say "well it's NOT because of this."

jamas33 · January 2005

If It was me and I paid for the installation, You d@mn right I am taking that back til the work is satisfactory. I suggest taking it back and insisting they get it right or you want your money back. The work is unsatisfactory and their managers or customer relation people should make sure they do it right. If you didnt pay for the install.. then just follow the polkster advice.. check the wires.. check the ground... I remember when my system was picking up engine noise, the Road Shop took all day to find the source and they made sure to fix it.

exalted512 · January 2005

it is a myth
-Cody

Jstas · January 2005

Video sheilded is not the same as EM or RF sheilding. Video sheilding keeps the signal travelling down the signal cable to your amp and the subsequent EM feild generated by that action from interfering with the picture display or your monitor/TV. It does little to nothing to protect your signal from outside interference.

As a side note, the fool at the install place is just blowing smoke because RCAs are not all "video sheilded" anyway. Infact, unless you dump some money into them (i.e.: NOT the cheapy cables that come in a typical amp install kit) they most likely have no sheilding at all, just insulation to protect the wire.

Also, your average power cable is pulling between 30 and 75 amps of current draw down that line at a 12-14v rating. That creates a pretty large EM feild which permeates everything around it. Sheilding or not. Wanna see how strong EM fields can be? Go grab a flourescent bulb from the hardware store. Find yourself some high tension power wires. Stick one end of the bulb in the ground underneath the wires and stand back about 6-10 feet. That should give enough space for your body to not affect the field. The bulb should glow faintly. That's caused by nothing more than the EM field travelling down the ciruit of the bulb and grounding out on the earth to complete teh circuit. Completed circuit, glowing bulb.

You need to re-run those RCA cables as far away from the power cables as you can. You need to check all grounding points to make sure they are secure. If they used multiple grounding points then you need to do you best to consolidate them into a single ground. Make sureyou get a good metal to metal bite on the grounding point and make sure that all end terminals are secured properly to the end of the wires. Also, check to make sure that your antenna lead is properly grounded and that the antenna mount is not loose. Check your engine block grounding strap and make sure that it is secure and not damaged, corroded or broken. Make sure your power wire is not connected to any junction boxes, tied next to any wires carrying high current power or that it isn't reasting anywhere near the engine block or ignition system.

maltesechicken · January 2005

- Are the speakers component speakers (Tweeters and mid bass mounted separately)?
- Is the sound there when the system is off?
- Unplug the RCA's from the amp and turn the system on. Is the sound still there? (If yes, then there isn't a problem with the RCA's being run with the power).
- Plug the RCA's back in the amp, and unplug them from the HU. Is the sound there?

Try a few of these suggestions. It might help narrow down where the problem is coming from. Although, it should be the SHOP trying these things not you, because you did pay for them to do it right.

MacLeod · January 2005

It aint the MTX amp!

If I had to bet I would say it is the wiring kit used to mount the head unit. I have the same problem with mine. Those spiffy kits they use are not the best quality and also use very small wires. Aftermarket head units use a lot more juice than a crappy OEM unit and so those little 22 guage wires they use for power dont cut it. The speaker wires and such are ok but the power and ground wires need to be upgraded.

This you could do this weekend. Go to radio shack and get you some good 10 or 12 guage power wire. Pull out your head unit and run the yellow (constant) wire straight to the battery.

Also, the OEM ground is pretty weak too so take the wire you bought and run the ground to a better location.

You should try this. Even if its not the cause of the noise, its a good thing to do.

duane26 · January 2005

Originally posted by maltesechicken
- Are the speakers component speakers (Tweeters and mid bass mounted separately)?
- Is the sound there when the system is off?
- Unplug the RCA's from the amp and turn the system on. Is the sound still there? (If yes, then there isn't a problem with the RCA's being run with the power).
- Plug the RCA's back in the amp, and unplug them from the HU. Is the sound there?

Try a few of these suggestions. It might help narrow down where the problem is coming from. Although, it should be the SHOP trying these things not you, because you did pay for them to do it right.

Yes the polk mmc 6500's are installed seperatly. There is no sound when the the system is turned off. The sound comes squeeling when I accelerate. Actually everyone's suggestions in here are great and I'm going to write them done so when I go back in I'll have a troubleshoot checklist. I would mess around with it myself if it wasn't for the $170 I paid for the install;) I am going in on monday so I will keep you all informed thanks for all the help this forum is great!

spwuinmk67 · January 2005

Glad we could help...

MacLeod · January 2005

And do keep us posted. Im curious as to what the culprit is.

PoweredByDodge · January 2005

To date, there is only one brand of RCA wire I've found I can run dead on next to a high current power line and not receive any noise whatsoever...

Street Wires Zero Noise 5.0 -- which are no longer made.

The new Zero Noise 3's are good, not as good, but good. I ran them together in one of my other cars, and they're allright... I dont hear any noise, but part of me consider's myself lucky in that regard.

Demand the lines be run separately, and while they're at it, wrap the rca's in aluminum foil.

exalted512 · January 2005

im trying to find another pair of those 5.0s...theres a pair going for $20 right now on ebay, but its a 12 ft length. i emailed them and they said they dont have anything in a 16' length...hopefully something will pop up
-Cody

Jstas · January 2005

Originally posted by PoweredByDodge
To date, there is only one brand of RCA wire I've found I can run dead on next to a high current power line and not receive any noise whatsoever...

Street Wires Zero Noise 5.0 -- which are no longer made.

The new Zero Noise 3's are good, not as good, but good. I ran them together in one of my other cars, and they're allright... I dont hear any noise, but part of me consider's myself lucky in that regard.

Demand the lines be run separately, and while they're at it, wrap the rca's in aluminum foil.

How many times do I have to tell you that the 6.0's are just as good if not BETTER THAN the 5.0's? I have the 6.0's and I have no issues with sound whatsoever. Not even on the tape deck. Yes, I still have a tape player in my truck.

exalted512 · January 2005

what is this "tape"?
-Cody

MacLeod · January 2005

LOL!

The first 3 aftermarket head units I ever bought were tape players.

I remember thinking CD's were stupid. They were too big and too easy to scratch. You could take a tape and stick it in your pocket and carry it around! LOL

swerve · January 2005

Originally posted by MacLeod
I remember thinking CD's were stupid.

yup you thought and that was your first problem. my mom wanted a tape the other night... i about slapped her

-adam

PoweredByDodge · February 2005

You'll have to try a million more my friend.

The 5.0's construction is as such...

1- twisted pair per channel
2- aluminum alloy metal film for further insulation wrapped around each individual channel
3- ferrite inductor in the end of each rca connect to cancel out high frequency interference that may get through the insulation and the twisted pair design.
4- braided nylon jacket for rigidity and long lasting life.

the 6.0's are as such...

1- twisted pair per channel
2- both channels are then twisted together as well
3- braided nylon jacket for rigidity and long lasting life.

duane26 · February 2005

Ok so I took my car back on monday and they installed a ground loop isolater and when i looked at the amp I could tell they changed the rca's as well. And walla, clean crisp clear sound with no engine noise. Now I know all of you are going to say cover-up and that it's only a band-aid but I don't care. I am just happy to have no engine noise. I never told you guys about how car domain sent me the wrong components and my amp had been sitting in my room collecting dust. I am just happy to be up and running. I just ordered my sub and box so hopefully there will be closure to finally being completed for now.Back to the install, well I did learn one thing it sure pays to know what you are doing because next time rca's and power line won't be going on the same side or maybe even some TOTL streetwires RCA's .The money I spent on install could have gone for a second amp, lol. Now on the subwoofer, I was thinking of facing it towards me in my trunk, that way I can put the back seat half way down and really feel the music, any thought? I know there is a sub thread but I'm feeling lazy.

MacLeod · February 2005

Glad you got it straightened out.

And yeah, half the fun of car audio is installation so next time do it yourself. Youll be glad you did.

As far as sub placement experiment with different spots in your trunk. What works best in one model trunk might not work well in another.

PoweredByDodge · February 2005

3/4 of the fun of car audio is totally butchering your first install... but having saved enough money (by not going to a pro) that you can spend that cash on buying replacement panels and **** so you can do it right the 2nd time - the "goodest" install ya ever done.

DemolitionNine · February 2005

Originally posted by PoweredByDodge
3/4 of the fun of car audio is totally butchering your first install... but having saved enough money (by not going to a pro) that you can spend that cash on buying replacement panels and **** so you can do it right the 2nd time - the "goodest" install ya ever done.

LMAO.

That totally sounds like my last car. I rigged that thing up SOOO bad.

I was DIRT POOR when I installed that system in my old car. Spent $100 on EVERYTHING in it.

I didn't even solder the connections, just used the twist-it method, with wire-nuts.

It worked flawlessly, I dunno how, but it worked GREAT.

On my car that I have now, I'm gunna run everything SUPER clean. It'll be more of a hassle on this car though because the speakers are in the doors.. and running wires to doors is a pain in the ****.

-Matt

Calling all Polk superstars I need help?

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