Need help! Dedicated HT

TrappedUnder Ice

Hey Polksters.... Hell is freezin over. We are adding to the house- bonus rooms. Gonna have my own dedicated HT theater...whoo hoo!

could use some ideas from those on the forum that have done this. What they did,,, experiences, products used...all that good stuff! Want to do this one right the first time.

* plan on doing dedicated power to the HT system
* gonna do 4x6 floor plates with studs offset every 8" with insulation in the walls.

Ceiling and floor...still working on ideas.

seen products called quiet rock and some sound deading pads etc..

I'm a sponge...so dont be shy! thanx.. thomas.

gatemplin

Congrats on getting to build your own theater! I wish I could that.

Now read these you sponge ****!

http://hometheatertalk.com/httalk/viewtopic.php?t=6340&highlight=dedicated+theater+theatre

http://hometheatertalk.com/httalk/viewtopic.php?t=1853&highlight=dedicated+theater

Frank Z

Run Flexible conduit (1/2") to all of your speaker locations.

Run 2" PVC conduit to a juction box for a front PJ cables and a seperate outlet at the same location, just in case.

5/8" sheetrock is your friend.

Floor joists 16" on center and use liquid nail when putting down the sub floor.

Can lighting that you are able to aim are a must.

No windows!!

Return-air grill up high and supply ducts down low.

beardog03

wooohooo...!!!

I`m Taking notes..

This is my next project, after I finish my 2ch set up..!!

okiepolkie

I can't seem to find it right now, but either on Polk's website or on Crutchfield there are a few good tips on how to set up the studs to improve your room's sound quality.

It was something along the lines of offesetting your studs to create somewhat of a maze throughout the wall. I'll look for it some more, but it seemed like a good idea to me and one that I might use if I was ever going to build a dedicated audio/HT room.

McLoki

I think what okio is referring to is sound deadening the wall.

Use a 2x6 top and bottom plate with 2x4 studs. you put every other stud even with the front edge next even with the back edge. Once completed, you weave insulation between the studs. (creating an air space between drywall and insulation.)

I have heard that it works pretty well.

Michael.

okiepolkie

Thanks McLoki That is what I was thinking of. I just couldn't find the website to post a link for specs and benefits. If anyone knows a little bit more about this, let me know so I can help some other people building homes.

McLoki

Here you go (from here) :

A well-constructed and sealed staggered-stud wall design has a very high STC of 60. This design uses an extra wide base plate. For example you use a 2" x 6" base plate and alternately position the studs to the outer edges of the plate, 1 to the inside, next one to the opposite edge etc. No stud actually touches both walls so there is no direct sound path. You can improve on this design by using separate base plates under each set of studs. The insulation is snaked through the stud-to-wall gaps along the entire length. This leaves no voids to let noise through. ( Basically you are building two separate walls.)

System #1
5/8" type "X" fire rated drywall has much better sound deadening properties than 1/2" reg drywall. The cost is not that much more so I recommend you use 5/8"X. Attach it to the studs using construction adhesive and a few screws to hold it in place until the adhesive dries. Avoid using too many screws...this is a path for sound to travel, 6-8 per 4'x8' panel of drywall is enough to hold it.
When installing the drywall do not fit it tight into the ceiling, corners or floor. Hold it off at least 1/4" and use an acrylic caulking to fill those gaps. The caulking acts as a flexible buffer for sound vibration so that it minimizes the sound transfer.
Caulk an fill ALL openings, around outlet and switch boxes, light fixtures etc. NO Cracks or holes left uncaulked!
Tape and finish the drywall using normal procedures.

I am very interested in your project. Please keep us all posted with what you end up doing and what you would do again or differently.

Michael

TrappedUnder Ice

Killer...much better then responses I got from the Hometheaterforum guys....

The Idea to use the 2x6 (think I posted 4x6) is what I was planing on doing. Putting 2x4 studs offset.

the 5/8" x rated fire rated dryawall....would this be better then say Quiet rock or similar products?

I take it by not fitting the walls to the ceiling and floor creats a "free" floating type effect?

One thing I"m looking for... is some good 12g or 10g wire to run in the walls...and some better wall plate ideas...

Still soaking in the last bit of info...and I will keep everyone posted and will of course have some picS!

BTW: room will be 12" x19"
Equipement:
Toshiba 46" DLP
Yamaha 2400
Polk RT2000I front
Polk CS400I Center
Polk RT55I Rear
Polk RT25I Side surround (possible for 7.1)
Velodyne CT150 Sub


Thanx again..Thomas.

bknauss

Hometheaterforum.com is nice, but not technical enough. Head over to www.avsforum.com. I was just looking at their Home Theater room area last night. Lots of great info there.