Help with cable selection

yobear
yobear Posts: 49
edited December 2004 in Electronics
Here we go. I'm trying to figure the cables needed for this system.

I'm going to buy all monster brand cables. So far I've pre wired the room with Monster speaker wire and Monster Sub cable. I Have a ceiling mount projector with HDMI, Component and RGB inputs.

Receiver: Onkyo TXNR901
XBOX
DVD: Need advice on brand for this one
Directv: Samsung SIRT360

I ran a 3" PVC pipe in the ceiling prior to closing it up and its approx 16 feet to my stereo rack. Should I run component from my reciever or should I run component from my DVD to projector and DVI to HDMI from my Directv to the projector..

Please help!
Thanks
Scott
Onkyo TX-NR901 Receiver
Sony DVP-NS975V DVD - Player
Microsoft X-Box with HD Pack
Samsung SIRTS360 HD Directv Decoder
Panasonic HDTV PT-AE700U Home Theater Projector
Da-Lite Cinema Contour HC 106" Screen
Harmony 688 Remote Control
JVC HM-DH4000U D-VHS Digital Video Recorder
Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 5000 MKII with Clean Power Stage 4 v.2.0

Polk RTi10 Fronts
Polk CSi5 Center
Polk FXi5 Surround
Polk RTi6 Rears
Polk PSW505 Sub


Post edited by yobear on

Comments

  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2004
    Dude, you can do WORLDS better than Monster.
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2004
    Go with Signal Cable You'll save alot of money, and they will custom, hand terminate everything for you.

    I would run Component from the DVD, and HDMI from your DTV. Unless you use your Onkyo for video switching, there is no need to run cables to it for video.

    EDIT: Just read that a little closer, no DVD yet eh? Tell us your spending linit, and then you can get some recomendations closer to your idea.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • yobear
    yobear Posts: 49
    edited December 2004
    Actually, I for no other reason then the price I get the cables for like them. I get an accommodation price of 60% off posted web price so for me this is a good option.

    I'm just confused on which cables I should use to the projector; should I run everything component through the receiver and then into the projector? or should I split it up a little? How about a DVD player? I don't really care to much about DVD-A or SACD but I still wont a good DVD player.
    Onkyo TX-NR901 Receiver
    Sony DVP-NS975V DVD - Player
    Microsoft X-Box with HD Pack
    Samsung SIRTS360 HD Directv Decoder
    Panasonic HDTV PT-AE700U Home Theater Projector
    Da-Lite Cinema Contour HC 106" Screen
    Harmony 688 Remote Control
    JVC HM-DH4000U D-VHS Digital Video Recorder
    Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 5000 MKII with Clean Power Stage 4 v.2.0

    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk CSi5 Center
    Polk FXi5 Surround
    Polk RTi6 Rears
    Polk PSW505 Sub


  • yobear
    yobear Posts: 49
    edited December 2004
    I don't wont to spend more then 350 - 400 dollars on a DVD player. Actually I can get my hands on the Onkyo DVCP802 for 393.00. but, I'm a little confused about all the setting there are into setting the player up. I 'm more of a plug-n-play type of person

    But if I could get away with spending less without losing out on anything I'm game
    Onkyo TX-NR901 Receiver
    Sony DVP-NS975V DVD - Player
    Microsoft X-Box with HD Pack
    Samsung SIRTS360 HD Directv Decoder
    Panasonic HDTV PT-AE700U Home Theater Projector
    Da-Lite Cinema Contour HC 106" Screen
    Harmony 688 Remote Control
    JVC HM-DH4000U D-VHS Digital Video Recorder
    Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 5000 MKII with Clean Power Stage 4 v.2.0

    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk CSi5 Center
    Polk FXi5 Surround
    Polk RTi6 Rears
    Polk PSW505 Sub


  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2004
    I'd save on the cables by going SC and look for a Denon 2200(Old Model <450), 2900(Old Model) or 2910(New Model). They all present stunning PQ and will allow you to play around with DVD-A and SACD.

    Just a thought, good luck in whatever you choose.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • okiepolkie
    okiepolkie Posts: 2,258
    edited December 2004
    How far away are your components from your projector. If you have to run HDMI/DVI cables more than around 20 ft, then you will get a loss in signal strength(i.e. degraded picture).
    With that said, the Denon DVD-1910 is well within your price range and also includes a DVI output. The Sony DVP-NS975V also has an HDMI ouput to upscale images to "higher" definition.
    If you decide to go with component video for your cabling, then the digital outputs won't help you a whole lot right now, but might be beneficial to you later.
    If you do go with HDMI/DVI hookups, then you might have to invest in a HDMI switcher, which can run as much as $250.
    My conclusion(for economics sake) would be to run the DTV receiver with HDMI cables, then use the receiver to switch component video between the DVD player and X-Box.

    Edit: Sorry Doro, I was typing a response at the same time. I would go with the Denon 2910, except I not sure if it can be had for $400 right now, that is why I suggested the 1910.
    Tschüss
    Zach
  • yobear
    yobear Posts: 49
    edited December 2004
    okiepolkie. It about 16 feet away. So should I buy a DVI to HDMI cable for my directv to projector?
    Onkyo TX-NR901 Receiver
    Sony DVP-NS975V DVD - Player
    Microsoft X-Box with HD Pack
    Samsung SIRTS360 HD Directv Decoder
    Panasonic HDTV PT-AE700U Home Theater Projector
    Da-Lite Cinema Contour HC 106" Screen
    Harmony 688 Remote Control
    JVC HM-DH4000U D-VHS Digital Video Recorder
    Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 5000 MKII with Clean Power Stage 4 v.2.0

    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk CSi5 Center
    Polk FXi5 Surround
    Polk RTi6 Rears
    Polk PSW505 Sub


  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2004
    Okie - No problem at all, the 1910 is another excellent suggestion....I was trying to pull that one from memory but it is cloudy and busy in there. Is it essentially the 2200 replacement?

    The 2900, while a discontinued model, would be an outstanding choice for a few dollars more....but your right, it isn't THAT low.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • okiepolkie
    okiepolkie Posts: 2,258
    edited December 2004
    Hard to say, yobear.
    The length will probably be okay.
    Is there a way you could get a cable to test it? I know right now that may be a bit difficult since there are not many people that have the technology to borrow gear/cables from yet.
    If you are trying to stay within a close budget, then get a set of good coponent cables o see if you are happy with the picture. If you aren't satisfied, then you can just use the cable for DVD/Xbox.

    If you want a little more clarification on digital video cables, read this article at projectorcentral.

    I don't think I answered your question fully, but I hope I have been of some help.

    Doro, do you use HDMI or DVI for any video connections? I have been studying it for quite some time, but haven't used it yet myself. My father in-law has DVI ouput on his cable box and HDMI to his television, but Time Warner said their signal strength isn't good enough to use the connection yet.:mad: He doesn't watch that many DVD's, so he is not really interested in buying a DVD player with the correct outputs yet.
    Tschüss
    Zach
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,766
    edited December 2004
    Originally posted by yobear

    I'm going to buy all monster brand cables. So far I've pre wired the room with Monster speaker wire and Monster Sub cable.

    Monster is overpriced, the company is predatory and egregiously litigious. Besides that, 60% off crap is still crap.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • yobear
    yobear Posts: 49
    edited December 2004
    really! That's helpfull
    Onkyo TX-NR901 Receiver
    Sony DVP-NS975V DVD - Player
    Microsoft X-Box with HD Pack
    Samsung SIRTS360 HD Directv Decoder
    Panasonic HDTV PT-AE700U Home Theater Projector
    Da-Lite Cinema Contour HC 106" Screen
    Harmony 688 Remote Control
    JVC HM-DH4000U D-VHS Digital Video Recorder
    Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 5000 MKII with Clean Power Stage 4 v.2.0

    Polk RTi10 Fronts
    Polk CSi5 Center
    Polk FXi5 Surround
    Polk RTi6 Rears
    Polk PSW505 Sub


  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,766
    edited December 2004
    It is if you want better sound and are open minded enough to take some good advice based on many more years of experience with this stuff than you have.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited December 2004
    Running 20 foot lenghts of all cable is more costly than letting the Onk do the switching, but less connections results in better video quality, so you have tradeoffs either way.

    Let the receiver switch whatever cable you have to double up on.
    You will have at least 3 sources once you get a DVD.

    I don't know if the Onk can handle HDMI switching, can it?

    60% off Monster pricing does make it competitive, otherwise I would look into other brands.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited December 2004
    if he wants all Monster cables. let him have them.... it's his set up.

    but dude there are other better cables and wires out on the market. much better.

    Monster cables just seem to be the default cable everyone (newbie) seems to want.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited December 2004
    Being the "newbe" that I am, and trying to do some serious upgrade to everything....
    What cables are the ones to go with ?
    Where should I look for them ?
    What is a good price ?

    I always thought monster cables were the way to go ..!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • keith allen
    keith allen Posts: 734
    edited December 2004
    Heck,I have monster,ar,and radio shack...I cant tell a bit of difference betweenany of the three,so for now on...its radio shack baby!
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2004
    Try some Signal Cables. You'll be able to tell a difference...
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited December 2004
    I think that whether or not one hears a difference between different cables depends on several things such as the resolution of your system as a whole (which also depends on your room and speaker placement), what kind of music you listen to and what kind of listener you are. If you don't sit in the sweet spot, have your system set up optimally and are not a 'critical' listener, then that certainly lowers your chances of being able to distinguish differences, which definitely tend to be on the subtle side. If you tend to listen to music in the background or you don't sit in the sweet spot or you're just not a critical listener than it probably doesn't make much difference what cable you use. Also, even if you are a critical listener, you have to be pretty familiar with the music you are listening to in order to determine differences and whether they are good or bad differences. And if you listen to rap, metal or hard rock primarily, I don't think you're even capable of picking out subtle differences very well because the music itself is not subtle, although I must say that even my hard rock sounds better with my newest cables, the AudioQuest Opals.
    I would recommend those very highly, but to each his own. Monster, Radio Shack....whatever floats your boat. If you can't tell the difference given your system, music and listening style than go ahead and save some money.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,766
    edited December 2004
    Originally posted by dragon1952
    I think that whether or not one hears a difference between different cables depends on several things such as the resolution of your system as a whole.....

    BINGO!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2004
    And if you listen to rap, metal or hard rock primarily, I don't think you're even capable of picking out subtle differences very well because the music itself is not subtle, although I must say that even my hard rock sounds better with my newest cables, the AudioQuest Opals.

    I beg to disagree with you there.

    Although the differences may be subjective to the listener, a particular style of music choice does NOT inherently render said judge incapable of differentiating subtle difference in cable characteristics (such as resolution, bass response, imaging, soundstage presentation, depth, ETC. ETC. ETC.)

    What makes you think this to be true? Have you ever critically listened to Frank Zappa, Yes, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd? I do all the time. I also listen to Tchaikovsky, Handel, Brahms, and Wagner. Your going to tell me I can't pick out differences?? Sounds a little elitist to me...


    You even go on to state your "hard rock" sounds better on your Opals. That sounds like an oxymoron...
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited December 2004
    I don't think I said impossible. I think I said not very well. I guess what I meant was 'not as easily' and maybe I shouldn't have included hard rock, although bands like Pink Floyd, Yes and Zeppelin aren't exactly hard rock in my opinion....they are kinda in their own categories regardless of where other people may place them. Zappa's in his own category as well. I'm talking about bands where the main musical content is extremely loud and for the most part stays in the midrange. Of course tautness of bass is always an area to key on, but I just don't think that Cradle of Filth is the best type of music to listen to while trying to distinguish subtle differences between cables. Anyway, my point wasn't to start an argument or get nitpicky. The point I was trying to make is that if people have trouble distinguishing differences it's best to listen critically, in the sweet spot with an optimally setup system and with a type of music in which differences are more distinguishable.
    If I didn't say it correctly than maybe it's because I have trouble conveying my thoughts intelligently and precisely. Oh well! Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :p

    In addition:
    You even go on to state your "hard rock" sounds better on your Opals

    I believe I qualified that statement by starting it out with the word "although" ....... as in 'however'??? :rolleyes:

    And furthermore:
    That sounds like an oxymoron...
    :eek: Are YOU talkin' to ME ?!?!?!
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones