Single cable to Bi-Amp terminals
I'm sure this question has been asked a million times, but I think I'll likely learn the answer faster by reasking it than by going through all the historical emails (which I'm still doing):
Q. I have Polk's RTi line (8, 4, CSi5) and see I can bi-wire them. I don't personally believe bi-wiring makes an audible difference and I don't think it's worth the expense to Bi-Amp. Sooooo, if I'm just hooking up one cable pair to these speakers, does it make a difference if I go to the tweeter (top terminals I presume) or midrange drivers (botton terminals I presume)? I know there is a thin flimsey jumper, but there's likely still some resistence. So given the choice, which makes more sense electrically?
Q. I have Polk's RTi line (8, 4, CSi5) and see I can bi-wire them. I don't personally believe bi-wiring makes an audible difference and I don't think it's worth the expense to Bi-Amp. Sooooo, if I'm just hooking up one cable pair to these speakers, does it make a difference if I go to the tweeter (top terminals I presume) or midrange drivers (botton terminals I presume)? I know there is a thin flimsey jumper, but there's likely still some resistence. So given the choice, which makes more sense electrically?
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Home Theatre:
==========
Polk RTi8 Mains
Polk RTi4 Rears
Polk CSi5 Centre
Velodyne CHT-12 Subwoofer
Yamaha HTR-5760 A/V Reciever
Samsung DLP 46" TV HL-P4663W
Samsung DVD-HD841
Other music system:
==============
Energy Reference 22 Mains
Home Theatre:
==========
Polk RTi8 Mains
Polk RTi4 Rears
Polk CSi5 Centre
Velodyne CHT-12 Subwoofer
Yamaha HTR-5760 A/V Reciever
Samsung DLP 46" TV HL-P4663W
Samsung DVD-HD841
Other music system:
==============
Energy Reference 22 Mains
Post edited by polkster on
Comments
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It doesn't matter which set of binding posts you utilize in any way shape or form. Keep the jumper in place, wire them up, and start listening.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Originally posted by polkster
I know there is a thin flimsey jumper, but there's likely still some resistence. So given the choice, which makes more sense electrically?
Welcome to Polk.
A lot of folks have made new jumpers to replace the provided jumper including myself. Did I hear a difference?... no I did not but thats not to say you wont. Also I have always connected the speaker wires across the bottom posts figuring that if there was an increase in resistance due to the strap at least the buld of the energy needed for the low pass section would not be effected. But again I never heard the difference but then again you may.
A very subjective question your asking and in the end as Doro has stated just connect them up and enjoy.
HBomb***WAREMTAE*** -
You can always strip the wire too long and use it on both posts so you wouldn't need a jumper of any type...There is no genuine justice in any scheme of feeding and coddling the loafer whose only ponderable energies are devoted wholly to reproduction. Nine-tenths of the rights he bellows for are really privileges and he does nothing to deserve them. We not only acquired a vast population of morons, we have inculcated all morons, old or young, with the doctrine that the decent and industrious people of the country are bound to support them for all time.-Menkin
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Thanks dorokusai and HBombToo for the info. I'm sure I won't be able to hear the diff either, but it was the whole best "practices when resistance is involved" deal. I also was thinking that doing as jdhdiggs suggested with 14 awg wire would be a better electrical solution.-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
Home Theatre:
==========
Polk RTi8 Mains
Polk RTi4 Rears
Polk CSi5 Centre
Velodyne CHT-12 Subwoofer
Yamaha HTR-5760 A/V Reciever
Samsung DLP 46" TV HL-P4663W
Samsung DVD-HD841
Other music system:
==============
Energy Reference 22 Mains